joe90

Ah, plans must be included with Vat return application so I would guess if not on plans them not claimable.

And me, claiming VAT on detached garage.

Actually I found it easier, my cavity is 200mm, inner blockwork 200mm wider per side, windows 40mm wider than brickwork “hole”, 20mm expanding foam tape between window and brickwork, stainless straps and stainless screws, vertical DPC stuck to back of brickwork before fixing window straps. Angled reveal made of plasterboard fixed to angled button on side of window and plasterboard adhesive to blockwork after its internal corner was rounded. NOTE I asked the plasterers to use a stop bead at the joinfrom plasterboard to window but they said it was not needed OH YES IT WAS. I have suffered cracking plaster at this junction (so have others on this forum including @JSHarris,) if a stop bead was used the small gap between stop bead and wooden window could be filled with non setting caulk to accommodate any shrinkage or movement. I know this because I did this on the porch I built and I have no cracking. p.s. On the air test the small leaks were mainly at these cracks.

Sorry I was back to the constructive pessimism thread??????

Does that mean the life of the unit is not that long?

I am an optimist but a realist, is this not the same thing as constructive pessimism? (Sounds better anyway!).

I was converted when I went on a cookery course (not very successful), set the temp and it stayed exactly the temp you set it, no boiling over etc and it’s easy to clean the flat surface.

We both wanted a range cooker (rangemaster) but I wanted induction hob and she wanted gas, guess what we ended up with!!!!, and yes I do at least 50% of the cooking ?.

I was told after our first refusal that I didn’t give a decent enough bung to grease the wheels. As I have said before our appeal officer said our local planners were not abiding by their own policies! Which is why we won our appeal.

Ha, customers eh, who’d have them!!!

Why? If they want to open it from outside it needs a handle surely?

Gosh, I wish my list was that short ?????? p.s. I really like the look, got me thinking about cladding mine, my list just got longer ?, I wish I had a source of Oak like you.

Frankly sunamp should be paying for @JSHarris input, us non informed humans would not have a clue. I am a bit of a Luddite, I like KISS and stuff that’s been about a bit and already had all the wrinkles ironed out , also the less technical the kit the less there is to go wrong.

Can you not store it for a while and put the job on your “to do list” ?

Ha, had to translate that ?

I have fixed a heavy oak mantle to blockwork with stainless threaded rod, drilled a hole in the oak slightly smaller than the rod, hammered in a short way then “self tapped “ it fully home with two nuts locked together to drive it, marked the blockwork, drilled larger holes, cleared the dust, applied resin and offered the timber up and propped it in place. Rods were 100mm into blockwork and same into the oak, I used m12 if I remember rightly.

Although mine were fixed to the outside skin it was from the inside so not from scaffold. NOTE my reveals are angled, the inside blockwork hole was bigger than the outside so it was easy to do.

Really pleased for you, onwards and upwards.

I fitted my windows in check reveals (fixed to the inside of a brick outer skin) so I fixed mine to the outer skin with no problem.

. that was part of my appeal, next door neighbour is room in roof and the planners kept telling me it was only 6.9m high, when they were out I went round and measured it and and it’s actually 1.3m higher than they had planning for (but it was many years ago.), I presented this evidence but was told it did not matter. On my appeal I mentioned my full 2 floors was lower than the next door room in roof and of a hip design to reduce “mass” and I won ?.

Our planners were hell bent on “room in roof” but there are 2 story cottages around us, it took an appeal to the Secretary of State to get our way ??. I like the look of dormers but to get passive type insulation in the cheeks makes them very chunky.

Well my incoming pipe is 25mm and about 50m, I have had to use a pressure reducing valve in the house as we get 6 bar!!! And that blows the garden “click” fitting apart regularly. I am going to install another after the incoming stop cock so all pipe pressure is reduced. (Spend the money ?).

Yes I know someone that this happened to, a builder split a large house into two semi,s, bathrooms/toilets back to back on short pipes. It was a gift neither wanted. Builder had to return and trash both bathrooms to cure.

But @AnonymousBosch what are you doing fir DHW fir showers/baths?

I am a bit the same and love the very quiet rural location where we have built, but, the sewerage treatment plant blower is like a fridge, not noticeable normally but when I want to sit “quietly” and enjoy the view it intrudes. On my long to do list is to bury it in its own concrete bunker.