joe90

I didn’t go vertical with 110 pipe to AAV, just 50mm Is sufficient ?

Yes, (and running uphill slightly towards it if it were me.) I only have one ?

I ran 50mm under floors and converted to 32mm (fir basin) and 40mm (fir bath) when they came up through floors.

I ran everything (except loo) in 50mm, as advised by the welsh wizard.

I am following this as my mobile signal is dire but most of Bristol has a good signal, how many bars do you get on your phone outside ?

We had a problem with this as there was a height restriction to our build. As we had no gable walls it would be difficult to prove actual height but we did reduce the roof slope by a couple of degrees as the original bedroom ceilings proved a bit low. In practice (if I remember correctly) the height from top of truss to top of ridge tile was approx 100mm. But even if they got pedantic I believe you have a margin to the actual figure. As we used “angled” ridges rather than half round they fit more snuggly to the roof (and look better with slate IMO). I think it was @AnonymousBosch that used Nu-lock.

As what @Bitpipe says above about kit and their S.E. From what I have read Tanners are the kids to go to ref insulated slabs, and MBC regarding frames.

I am surprised no one has invented plastic ends like those on plant canes to stop you poking your eyes out. How about whacking some off cuts from your floor insulation on them (and wear a hard hat like your supposed to do ?)

Re, apprenticeship fir builders I remember the “huff house” programme on TV where the German team even did a spring clean on their van before leaving site . I agree that a lot of builders are poor at detail (mine was the exception, plus I was the project manager). I think building sites should go back to the “clerk of works “ who is responsible for quality of work and every house, not a few on larger sites should be inspected and tested. Like @scottishjohn I run an 08 plate with 156k on the clock and regular 50mpg.

ha, I do that, mix and match, I am of the age when the change to metric took place during my education. BUT you still buy carpet 3 or 4 meter wide but buy it by the foot ?.

I too initially wanted an insulated raft but S.E. costs fir the design was not cheap. I got an S.E. to design a raft fir the garage (not insulated) and paid £600 for the privilege and ended up with strip foundations a LOT cheaper than the raft (the raft would have held up a block of flats!!!!). Some on here had a passive slab designed as part of the timber construction so the S.E. costs were part of the overall costs. I went for strip foundations copied from here. https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/golcar-passivhaus-ground-floor-foundations/ which are passive type foundations. My building inspector accepted them with no S.E. Input and I had my own JCB to do the excavation. the only change my builder proposed (which I accepted) was to lower the DPC to the internal floor level, which put the outside DPC below ground level but they inserted a second DPC in the outer skin to cope with “rain bounce”. This was if the DPC is where it is in the diagram it potentially creates a slip plane above the skirting board (crack line).

Done ?

I don’t remember that but when researching my build I tried to find a cellulose blowing machine to hire, I even got a friend who was in the tool hire industry to look fir me and even he drew a blank, shame as they are available in the US. I f I remember correctly if you bought enough cellulose they let you borrow the machine FOC.

Like @ProDave my DHW is set to 48’ so anti scald devices not required. On the subject of mixers for showers I prefer external bar types so it can be replaced without dismantling the wall. I know someone who had a posh mixer and when it went wrong he was quoted him about £400 for a new valve.

I have a whole 100m roll of UFH pipe left over from my build, donate £25 to the forum and collect near Bude or I can drop at a Hermes collection point.

Have you confirmed the traps still have water In them.?

But you save £365 !!! (About what I paid fir mine ?)

I could do with a few of those, my chickens need wellies ?

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/4173099/how-to-get-meters-removed-and-supplies-capped some info, hope it’s relevant ?

I will get the fluffy towels on the radiator ? p.s. I bought mine on Ebay from a major supplier with good feedback p.p.s. Give us a diagram of your bathroom.

I sourced my own bricks,(12,000) went to a main agent near Exeter, got them to send sample boards of the three we picked. Er indoors picked the most expensive ?, my builder said I got them cheaper than he has in the past. They came from “ oop North” but were in stock in Devon. ?

@pocster your welcome to visit and try, only 130 miles away ?. I don’t like doors on showers, lots of places fir gunge to fester and difficult to clean.

It’s MDF, been down two years and no problems, plenty of paint and siliconed to stop water getting under it. I confess I don’t mop the floor, vacuum and occasional damp cloth. Unless your having a party in the shower ( ? ) very little water gets on the floor, plus I have a mat to stand on whilst drying which soaks any small amount of water and dries with the MVHR on auto boost ?.

I have a couple of 1200 x 800 trays with 1200 glass panel and a 300 “flipper panel”. The flipper panel stops water tracking off the end of the1200 screen, with the tray being 1200 very little water gets out of the shower but enough room to step out of the water spray without leaving the enclosure . I think this works very well ( I don’t like wet rooms)

I am on clay, didn’t use an SE, got the building inspector (local council) to look in a test hole and he just specified 700mm deep, I wanted 700mm wide for my wall make up. Simples, no expenditure .?