joe90

What is the difference between a drainage field and a soakaway? To summarise the difference between the two, a drainage field is designed to add additional treatment to the water. Whereas a soakaway is designed to store a large volume of water allowing time for it to release into the ground (i. e. in a heavy downpour).

That wont account for whether there are many or no people in the house, windows/doors open. A bit like central heating being controlled by room stats not flow temp from the boiler only.

When my gas water heater packed up in my on site caravan during the build I replaced it with an in line elecric water heater and it worked fine for a Shower and kitchen, can’t remember the make or output but there out there in tinternet land.

Not everyone would know how to make one, I always said I thought MVHR should run on a co2 detector but I know it’s related to RH.

https://www.toolstation.com/masonry-torx-frame-fixing-screw/p60986

Yes I used concrete screws to fix timber to concrete blocks as shuttering fir a garage base, just used a socket set but the hole has to be accurate diameter and clean.

I had one BCO try to get me to change an RSJ after I fitted it, I had full plans, I told him my SE was more qualified than him and I would be contacting his boss if he did not pass it, it stayed and I am not on his Christmas card list now 🤣.

Yes loft roll is a lot easier to work with squishing into place , with poly best to cut undersized and foam around it to make tight and glue it in place.

I always went full plans as I wanted to know from day one the structure was approved. Never make assumptions.

You can but only the thickness of the joists

I too had a vortex for this very reason

Yes the “skimpy” trusses are triangulated to make them stiff hence they can carry the roof load without large timbers like the ones used in older houses. Draw me a diagram of your trusses AND the walls underneath and I will show you what you’re unable to understand. 👍

The loading will be on the triangulation joins which are the stiffest part of the loft construction. Look at @ETC Post above for loft storage idea,s

Then it’s not Portland limestone, it’s Egyptian 🤷‍♂️ slate from Spain is Spanish even though it’s looks like Welsh.

WHAT, photo please

If you only want to board the central section why not bolt 6 x 2 timbers to the verticals at the required height fir your insulation then board with your chipboard, not up to building regs but your not having a party up there 🤷‍♂️

Welcome to THE forum Not popular here as it has mechanical parts in the smelly stuff, most prefer air blower systems Definitely not, listen to the supplier and liaise with building regs

Yes any fence over 1m next to a highway (pavements count as a highway) require planning, there have been similar questions on this before on this forum, do a search.

Yes three floors of removing a chimney is a lot of work and if it’s not in the way why bother? I think the condensation risk is over egged,!! Filled with beads and draught proof has got to be better than what exists. There is no timber in a chimney to rot and the house is heated. Just my penneth worth.

I don’t see why not, you say they are hardly stuck together anyway. 🤷‍♂️

Outstanding mate, you should and are very proud of what you have achieved 👍

Yes needs a fourth guide, however that one has a “lump” on the bar which might get in the way. What about this…. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Garage-Strong-Heavy-Stable-Black/dp/B0C622HQ4V/ref=asc_df_B0C622HQ4V/?tag

You would have to measure the depth of the breast on the outside and compare to the inside (if you can get in there). Either way blocking it off will massively help control the cold IMO. If you filled it with leftover beads it will be yet another filled cavity 👍

@ProDave would you not use a drop down bolt for one gate and just a gate latch for the other to it 🤷‍♂️ crossed with Dave’s post above

However there will be no cold air blowing in the now closed off chimney. I wonder if the cavity extends along the outside of the chimney ?