joe90

As far as is am aware planning is required if in front of the front elevation.

If you drill the 2” side with a ciearence hole you might find a 6” screw will pull that tight, you might need a washer under the head tho

Concrete blocks either side spanned with concrete lintels 🤷‍♂️

Duh, do us a CAD drawing (crayon assisted drawing)

How about using a veg peeler to shave 1/2 mm off the seal?

I went with 400mm spacing but joists specced at 600 because I hate bouncy floors.

Timber joists shrink so can become loose in the blockwork, joists are screwed to hangers to stop them moving.

Well mine don’t. No cutting of blocks A pittance in the cost of building a house

Yes, the gap between upstairs flooring and downstairs ceiling was parged (above and below was wet plastered).

On my build we used joist hangers built into block work, no squeaky floors, air test was good.

Can you have this 70mm short at the other end so it looks less obvious? If there is a 70mm gap at the bend it will still pass regs.

Silicone lubricant?

+1 👍 I tend to disagree as it’s on your land, best way is to find what it is/was by removing the crap in the bottom, exposing any pipes/kit and if it’s still needed/connected.

Why not find the squeeky bits and try squeezing expanding glue such as https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-5MINPU3-LumberIrwin-Polyure-Adhesive. Into any gaps, might work 🤷‍♂️

Unfortunately it’s under the stairs that remedial work needs doing, tightening wedges (the wood shrinks with age and the wedges become loose ) also additional blocks can be added. Why can you not access under the stairs?

Well crack on then, rods are used by professionals and proven to work as they did locating my water main which was nowhere near it was supposed to be. No one’s going to spend money drilling lots of holes to prove water diving works or not because it does.

Yes he does because it worked and has been for 4 years 🤷‍♂️. My local water company found a main that was missing from their records by using rods, they do work.

Tapco's are 5mm thick and due to the slates “stacking” they will not rest flat on the batten giving 1 or 2 mm more so 30mm clouts should be ok!

I would dig around in the bottom to confirm there is nothing there that needs access too.

I was given a similar mixer 20 odd years ago, used it constantly and only gave it away when I moved last year, switch was knackered and hard wired to the plug, it was 110volt.

When I lived down there I loved Instow, when the tides out the beach is huge.

+1, and yes an island will be a complete pain (unless there is only EVER one person in the room . My other half wanted an island in our 4m kitchen but decided against it.

@ProDave beat me to it. A bit like cavity wall ties, the benefit of non steel was not worth it IMO. If the “rawlplug” is thick enough it will insulate the fixing anyway. The area of fixings compared to the wall is minimal.

With a previous extension of mine the shapes were complicated (and slightly over the limit) but the maths (which made it within limits) were not challenged 😎