ToughButterCup

Yes. Document what has happened. Talk to the HSE. I don't hold out much hope for you though. HSE funding has been cut, cut and cut again.

No the issue isn't caused by using a private BC. We used exactly the same company (AI) and exactly what happened to you happened ( is happening) to us. Bottom line - it's no big deal. AI are correct in relation to the 8 week rule. Its just that private inspectors have begun to get as many people off their books ( close to 'final' completion) as possible - because of things like fire risk - insulation fires for example. They will come and inspect and give you a list of stuff that needs to be done for a full sign off. And kiss you a fond farewell. The LABC inspectors (your Local Authority) will be told of the 'sign off' (post 8 week) and they'll come round with AI's evidence and give your place a coat of looking over. And then give you a price. There's your chance to bargain. LABC charged us nearly as much as they would have done had they been with us from the beginning. They gave us some discount, but not much. Cue cross little ToughButterCup. But by then we were so punch-drunk by the build we just got on with it ( and still are) We can now take as long as we like to complete. Do Not Pass Go, DO Not Collect £200, Get Out Of Jail Free(ish)

Building on this thread (how to connect a glass juliet to the house so it doesn't fall off ), I'm well on with the ancillary stuff. Now, have a look at this..... The thing that holds the glass has a threaded bar sticking out of it. That connects to the stainless steel threaded connector, shown below. And in turn they both connect to the threaded stainless (M10) bar going through the house wall (Detail here) What's the nick in the threaded nut for ? Top / Bottom / Left / Right / Standing End / Floating End / a groove to confuse Anal Germans? The threaded connector nut is 30mm long - but the exposed thread from the juliet mounting block is also 30mm long Should I get a 70mm (or 80mm) M10 threaded connector instead? Or will the 30mm threaded connector do (15mm for the fitting, 15mm for the threaded rod) if I just make up the difference with (say) S/S washers ? It 'feels' like I should get a 70mm connector . But I've been known to be wrong before now. Hence this post

It's not impossible. Its very difficult, but possible. Let me describe my experience of successful local practice. Full disclosure: I had to spend a lot of money on ecology, and then watch neighbours use my survey as their own in a PP application. The LPA response to the neighbour's PP application was that he should put up a notice using the RAMS guidance - cost £100 tops. A few years before PP is applied for you take steps to kill any and all wildlife. The steps taken locally are encourage people to shoot on your land ignore reports of dead buzzards or other protected species - especially Heron fill ponds with pig slurry cut down any trees encourage the local Rat Pack to hunt on your land spray your land with toxic chemicals make sure that there's as much monoculture on your land as possible get the local badgers dug out and harassed to death After successful a successful PP application, apply to as many grant funders as possible to encourage re-wilding. Choose your ecologist wisely. Read their reports and draw your own conclusions as to the veracity and accuracy of their surveys. All ecologists are not equally insensitive to a builder's requirements. I do not condone or suggest that anyone should copy this technique. It's just my way of documenting the duplicity of some members of my local community. One ecologist said to me that self-builders aren't the problem. Its the 'Big Boys' - to use his phrase - that are the problem. He made this quite perceptive point to me directly - "No matter what you kill on your build - it won't make much difference : it's just one house" I doubt that he would have made that statement in public. My naivety in this sector - and openness - cost me about £6000 and about a 9 month delay. That admission does not, in my view, detract from the accuracy of the statements above. In anticipation of your interest in a RAMS statement - here's a reading list

Our Hansgrohe (Raindance) showerhead delivers 18 litres a minute. When I ordered it, I paid no attention to the flow rate: and so got a bit of a shock. But on the other hand it does deliver a gentle shoulder massage. There's a hand unit that delivers about 9 litres a minute. Frankly sometimes I prefer that to the large static shower head. I have come to appreciate the luxury of 18 litres a minute - especially on sunny days where the PV generates enough to recharge the SunAmp. I often shower three times a day (morning, evening and after sport) - that means at least £1.50 - and makes me wince a bit because up to now I'd never given the overall cost a second thought. As usual, @SteamyTea your posts make me think. Thanks.

The thing about that scene is that any single one of the blows exchanged at that time could easily have killed either opponent.

Too much detail @SteamyTea, too much detail. 🤨

Our Geberit does that. It even has an App (I kid you not) which reminds you to descale it. Seriously thinking about getting an S8

I've been avoiding this job for about a year. So far @Pocster hasn't seen fit to award me a Procrastination Biscuit though (😐 ) Never mind . Would you look at this drawing, and tell me what you think about the area highlighted in red ..... thanks. This is a section through a Durisol Block: grey = concrete (120mm) and the lightbrown is Celotex insulation. The block itself is a form of woodcrete A threaded M10 SS bar is threaded through a 12mm hole (2mm for the resin chemical anchor) The weight of the glass juliet screen (90 lbs) is supported by 4 anchor points. A Point Fixing 'grips' the glass. That Point Fixing screws into a Threaded Spacer. The Threaded Spacer sits on the M10 SS bar that's poking out of the wall. The M10 bar is fixed into the concrete with some form of chemical anchor. But that bar pokes through all that insulation - which gives the bar no support at all. My suspicion is that the weight of the bar will, over time , tend to push the threaded spacer into the wall. Ruining my render. Should I fit a large SS washer between the spacer and the wall (to distribute the force) or should I use something more substantial?

Waste time here. ( it won't be....) https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/search/?q=groundworks&quick=1&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy&search_in=titles

Here's a reading list for you.... If you follow the links in the posts you will get an overview of what's needed https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/search/?q=SUDS&quick=1

Wise use of the Conditional tense. '...may never...' Yeah, right. I'm thinking of marketing the output of our two grandchildren as StickToAnythingShit . "Grandad he's done it (his brother) again , come quick ! I'll get the coal shovel eh Grandad? Coal shovel? Why? Well thats what my daddy uses. Oh how children dob their parents in soooo easily.

You need three diggers. 1.5, 5 and 16 tonnes. If your experience is anything like ours, you'll get your money back on each of them.

Our BC explained that the arrangement (as outlined above) is to ' soften the turn ' by making the flow turn 45 degrees each time. She told me the flow speed would be slowed down more by a single 90 degree turn. I've always wondered if there is any truth to that. Anyone know ? @SteamyTea @Iceverge, @MikeSharp01 , @saveasteading? Yes, I would have asked the same question if the BCO had been male.

Perfect. Just perfect.

No. But you are shouting into the cavernous mouth of a massive deaf volcano. On-the-job tidiness is for others - the site cleaner, the apprentice, the owner, the wife (yes I know - but it's true). MDF has a carcinogenic edge to it, the greater the urgency therefore. Have a look at Peter Millard's YT channel. He works (used to? ) with MDF a good deal. Tidy to a fault, excellent carpenter, but suffers from some sort of bronchial problem. Hence his attention to dust reduction. One of his videos is about how on-the-job tidiness gets him a good deal of repeat business. 'Nuff said.

You're not the bollocks, @Pocster , the stairs are.

You mean glass - as in walk-on-glass stairs? Oh fer fooetyfook's sake man, don't you ever learn? 😂

Now buy yourself a stud-finder. Here's a google list of the kind of tool I mean SDS + sharp drill + enthusiasm + heavy metal thrash on at top volume + a glass of giggle water = (sometimes) wait for it......... a big bang and smoke coming out of wires or a wet face

Welcome! The trick in Structural Engineering is knowing the chemistry of the materials being used ..... A colleague of ours did an Enerphit (re)build in Lancaster his screen-name is (was) he doesn't post any more .... @VIPMan Click on his screen-name and you'll be taken to his content. Excellent build, lovely bloke. Ian

Hi! Welcome! We're nothing if not nosey: politely supportively nosey. Plans? Prices? Local issues, scandal at the LPA ? Come on, let's have it........ 😊

No mischief intended. Just thinking about saving us a little time and therefore a little money

Your drill is an SDS (Slotted Drive Shaft, or SDS +) drill , and the drill bit is SDS rated ? And the drill is set on hammer ? And the drill bit is new, and clean? First hole (pilot hole) about 4mm or so. Then drill out to 6.5mm (if necessary). Drill the hole 10mm deeper than needed Hoover, hole, suck (or blow out -eyes- , care) Use 6.5mm concrete screws to attach (whatever you want) to the wall . Countersink the hole and hide the screwhead with a wood plug. YT is your friend - here's a playlist https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=sds+drill+vs+hammer+drill

Could I ask whether you have had your meter checked? When was it last calibrated?