ToughButterCup

My in-roof system is fine. Faces all the wet weather, nay borra (yet)

Reading this section of the site, I'm sold on the idea of dimmable LEDs. We're thinking of dimming some LED strips, and a good few LED GU10s. Maybe my brain's too full of dripping roofs, stolen favourite tools and First Fixation circuitry: but where does the dimming actually occur? In an LED GU10 circuit, the bulbs need to be dimmable. But what about the driver / transformer? Does that need dimmability too? Do the same rules apply to LED Strip dimmers? And has anyone seen a Scolmore Click Mode Module dimmer switch - you know, the type that'll fit in a grid together with other switches?

No, not yet. Been first fixing the electrics. No excuse for me to sleep. The leak is tiny: a drip every two or three minutes.

Well @scottishjohn and @SteamyTea ; within 20 meters of my house there is a Tupperware (oops GRP ) roof which is still leaking two (three?) full years after it was built - when the temperature outside was too low. I did suggest to the owner of the roof, that the weather forecast wasn't too good. But he was under time pressure. Each summer since it was built he has tried to repair the leak: without success. Some ya win, some ya lose.

Indeed, thanks very much @SteamyTea . I'm almost feeling like getting the calculation done and then the drill out . But @Russell griffiths would laugh at me, @Construction Channel would roll his eyes, @Nickfromwales would tell me to get on with the plumbing, @Jeremy Harris would point out some fundamental errors, @TerryE would point out some rare statistical anomaly that occurs in months where there is a Friday the 13th, @MikeSharp01 would keep winding me up about the size of my drill - it's the diameter that counts , and @Pete would bring a deck chair to watch. So @SteamyTea, I think I'll pass on his one, ta!

Not cool maaaan, not cooool. ?

Bloody Hell Ed, just remembered your video .... Theres no reason why I shouldn't make a window sill like this is there?

Cheers Ed. Reveals? Some really nice bits of timber boarding - saved from the wooden packing which came with the windows: knot free, dead straight, stickered outside since delivery. Just needs a run through the thicknesser. And a good few coats of sealer. Really looking forward to it. Kiss the cat for me eh?

Timber. Interesting thought to use stone : how wide should the cill be - better put, how much wider than the structural opening should the cill be?

Externals ...

Along with @HerbJ here , I messed up on external window sill widths. So I need some. And since financial pips are squeaking, I thought I'd make some. How far either side of the window's structural opening should the sill extend?

Ugggghhhh. You have my sympathy. ?

The Internet. The place for shared ignorance.

What about ye? Eh? Sticken out? Anyway, welcome. Oooooh, you'll have the BH Flat Roof Police after you soon. Mine leaks.... but we're getting it fettled. You might like to work through the criticisms of flat roofing . Sounds like you have some good contacts: that's a really good start. Good luck Here's a list of BH posts with the term Flat roof in the title. All good fun innit?

Stoopid? No, it was me that is (well, used to be) . I assumed there was no need . Who's the eejit now then, eh?

Phhhhhhhhhh. ?

Thanks... I'm well beyond punishing myself. Thats long gone - firmly in the past. I posted this thread because I thought there might be some mileage for those early on in their build : I hope that this thread might be seen as a wry look at a bit of a cockup, and how, even when it does prove to be one, then there are normally ways round the problem. A few years ago, I would have gone into a proper Teutonic strop about it. Not any more.

Hmmm, yer right ... next thing that @Russell griffiths will be along and tell me that I'm over-thinking it again.

What are the chances that I would discover the omission?

No, the gap stops at the concrete. The wall is still solid concrete. A Dursiol block - imagine a block in plan, 500 wide, 365 deep, the front 220mm is insulation, the rear 100+ is concrete. The balance is the wood-based form encased in Portland cement. Sometimes, when blocks need to be cut (because the wall is not an exact multiple of 500) small bits of insulation need to be cut to fit the cut block. Or not fitted into the cut block as the case may be. I did a double take myself. No, its definitely the insulation missing. In four places that I have dsicovered so far. Bless 'em, they couldn't have given a stuff: and while inside the heated envelope it doesn't matter. But, as I say, when (if ever) little black mould blobs occur, it'll be out with the SDS, quick look with the camera, and a squirt of foam. Here's hoping that its only happened four times .... ?

200mm of Celotex; Perhaps 70mm? It's 0. Zero, zilch, nugatory, nada, nichts, rien. Proper cold spot. @TerryE would blow a fuse, and Mr Harris would sue everyone in sight if someone had done that on his build. However, you are right when you say The aggregate is 10mm in a sloppy (scotch-broth) slump. It's amazing how effective that bit of stone is at stopping the flow of pumped concrete.

But never mind I haven't paid the bill yet.... (despite having followed proper procedure) I have a strange feeling that Aesop is sitting on my shoulder. Bless 'im! This is my fault; naivety coupled with just enough money, and a general bias towards optimism. Let me tell you a story. Sitting comfortably? Then I'll begin. Our house is built using Durisol. Cheap, cheerful, targeted at noobies like us. Common on GD. Good U value, easy to handle yadda yadda yadda. By a quirk of fate (the Planners asked us to chop the front of the house off), part of the insulated front of the house is inside the house. In other words, inside the heated envelope. Well ! Guess what! I had a brainwave (can you hear the punch-line building yet?) Don't need the insulation inside the house? Well, chop it out then! Yo Sushi ! Go Team Salamander ! Check with the manufacturers, and the SE (very nice man, very very nice man haven't had his bill yet), it's all OK. @Stones came by and marvelled, @ProDave came by and marvelled. Look ! part of a structural wall cut out and no need for a lintel. Bit like Look mum, no nickers! Ya should have seen their faces: polite concern writ large. Any road up, SWMBO soon had an idea for the space freed up. And off I went happy as a sand boy to dig the insulation out. Now then boys and girls, look at this , and what do you see? I mean, beyond a Teutonic propensity for taking the wall to bits in neat squares ? I've dug out two columns of blocks (the equivalent of one Durisol block) exposing the concrete behind, and cut off only the face of two blocks (LHS) exposing the insulation. So far so good. Now look at this ... Look at the bottom right hand column Yep, insulation missing. Had I taken it out? - Nope. I'm exposing (cutting the face and insulation off) about 2 full square meters of wall. And so far found four instances of this little piece of laziness. Duplicate that randomly over the whole house and ..... ? Look on the bright side Ian ! You'll know what to do when the black mould spot pops its ugly fizzog on the wall inside the house. 6mm SDS , 300 mm long , squirt squirty with my new-found tool of choice. Insulation foam. Ahhh, isn't that nice children? If it you do it all yourself, you know how to sort out cock-ups. Now then, sit up straight and let's see who can go home early ! Not you @Nickfromwales, I want to see you when everyone's gone. .... Again.

OP edited to reflect your clarification. Ian

You have a YT channel. Here's one of YT's answers

Let me get this right ... you're asking us to supply you with a piece of wood 400mm by 28mm? Can I suggest that your request needs phrasing with more care, or that you look in your builder's van for a spare bit of timber. I am aware that English may well be an additional language for you. But asking on BuildHub if we could somehow source a spare bit timber could easily be misunderstood. Tout traduction est trahison