ToughButterCup

Write to three lawyers; describe the problem succucintly, and ask each of them for a fee proposal.

+ 1 I bought a twiddler years ago. Don't use it often. But when I do it's brilliant. Needs a bit of persistence , practice, but after that it's like riding a bike. You can make up lengths of twisted wire for use later - you get to feel for the correct degree of twist after a bit. The result is very strong wire - and gabions are the perfect place for that.

Might the post immediately above be considered an advert?

Not all installers are equal. Check the Sunamp website for the list of approved installers. The list on the website was out of date last time I checked. They may well have updated it recently though.

Exactly correct. Our was fitted upstairs by a reliable installer. We have two suicide doors in upper bedrooms (soon to be Juliette balconies) Ours popped straight through one. Two blokes, bit of sweat, tea, medals.

The installer matters.

How do you know that Russ? ?

It is very pleasing to think that handing on a bit of hard-won experience helps someone else. Made my day, thanks.

It's a matter of giving yourself room to work. If both ends of the pipe run are fixed (you cant move or wiggle the IC) , first connect to the IC, then use a slip coupler to link the pipe. If the IC at one end is relatively free, then jiggle that to fit. By accident I over-dug one section of our drainage run. Work connecting the IC in that section was much easier. Enough room to squat down by the IC is very valuable, as is room enough to turn round - without treading on the unsupported pipe- in the trench. For me that meant another half day digging by hand. The disadvantage is that you need more 10mm to backfill. How mean am I ?

This is a hand one And a clay spade for a digger is a thin bucket with its cheeks cut off You're on clay ... unavoidable expense...

The 3 to 15 people version (BioPure 3 maybe ?) Jim, because we decided to put two houses on it. £3000ish delivered. Also decided to bed it in concrete (high water table sometimes) - easy - attach 4 concrete fence posts with chain to 8 shackles and drop them in first. The a tonne or two of concrete. Get the tank in the right way round (who can guess why I thought it useful to point that out), and then above say a meter from the bottom - above the concrete - put a whole load of 10mm in with a French drain sleeve bedded in that lot ... so it becomes a soak away ... and duct the soakaway to the outfall. Tickety Boo. I had the fear of God put in me by someone pointing out that Digesters can float even when full of packed lunches. He'd seen it happen. And I believed him.

Switched mine on for the first time last week. It was like switching on a log flume or jacuzzi. (Clear fresh water I hasten to add) No moving parts. Pump breaks? Take the lid off replace the pump , reconnect, go. Found a great crested newt clinging to a piece of PIR, tried to rescue it, leaned in - glasses straight off the end of my nose never to be seen again, but Sharpies float. NotAlotOfPeopleKnowThat

Perhaps I should have titled the thread Spacing Things Evenly. My louvres are vertical- more like stair rods. As I see it the problem of spacing is about calculating the space available AFTER adding the widths of everything that you are going to put in the space

Thanks Dave. I'd like to finish a run of louvres with a louvre, not a space. Using your logic, then the total gap (for calculation purposes) reduces by the width of 2 louvres, I think....? Meantime I found this. He makes the same point as you about top and bottom.

Bosch professional. Mine failed -faultered- outside in bright sunlight. That's it's only weakness . As soon as a cloud shaded the sun it was fine.

Anyone know how to get the SPACES between the rods exactly the same all the way along the run?

ICF blocks, based on woodcrete created in Belgium Toilets , Germany and Switzerland Stainless steel screws, Germany Wiska junction boxes, Germany Windows and doors, Austria Wood to metal screws, Germany Shower equipment, Germany Tiles, Spain

I had exactly the same problem right when C-19 struck. That meant about a month digging 35 cubic meters by hand. At the time I cursed a bit. I've already forgotten the irritation, but I do know - now - exactly what's involved in accurate digging to a fairly precise fall. In brief Keep checking for level - over-digging by hand is soooo annoying Make sure the width is right, pipe width plus space for one foot either side of the pipe- too wide is as bad as too narrow Plan for spoil - topsoil one side, clay / whatever else 'other side. Backfills easier that way. Make a set of trench boards to prevent, where necessary, collapse- scaffold Jacks to brace between boards on either side. Plan how to drain the trench : thunderstorms. Buy a clay spade. Brilliant bit of kit. Two people digging (machine or hand) speeds the process significantly. Debbie helping more than doubled the rate of progress Plan for where the backfill 10mm gravel is dumped. It's a much bigger task than I thought. A laser level really helps.

Morning. Welcome. That's what we need, level headed pragmatism. And there was I wanting to go on holiday to Broadchurch as soon as C-19 abates....

That's below the belt @pocster ... I mean at least his grouting is clean

Our tiler says that now, he only ever uses a levelling system. For one thing it speeds up his workflow.

I can tell ya, mates have been cuing up to use the toilet flush system : we have two Geberit Tuma Classics - it's the tiny bit of cold water that wakes you up , instantly followed by perfect temperature water - 50 seconds of pure delight

Its official, you are a genius.

Thanks everyone. You have lifted my gloom. I wuz really piddled off when I saw the hole. Now, I'm glad it's there. Summat extra to fill my time with.