Declan52

If you reverse fit the hose then time how long it takes to fill a large bucket/drum.

Do you know anyone with a small compressor you could connect it and see if it blows clear. A joiner or maybe even a mechanic with the portable version for inflating tyres.

Can you get the hose to the high section so gravity will help.

Screws or nails wont matter. Use what ever method suits you.

Let it sit for a year even 18 months and it will move and crack and hopefully that will be that. Then you can sort out the cracks.

Its easier than you think. Just a matter of making sure your measurements are spot on the first, second and third time you check. Much easier to get a good swing at it with the hammer to drive in the nails when you have it flat on the floor.

That's a bit under hand.

I take you paid for brand new.

I did it on all my internal block walls . It came in very handy when I had to run a TV aerial extension as my wife wanted to rearrange the living room. Just peeled back the carpet and pushed the cable into the insulation and job was covered over and worked a treat.

Im the exact same. Fire it up and let it heat the house for 2-3 days depending on how cold it is outside. A lazy Sunday with the stove flickering away is hard to beat.

I use a pellet stove.

I tried various temp with my themal store and found 67 was my sweet spot. A little less and it lost heat to quick but heated up quicker. A little more and it held its heat longer but then took longer to get to this temp.

Cavity boards have a better u value but and it's a big but how they perform in a real world setting will be down to the guy sticking them in the cavity. If he pushes a bit of motar out into the cavity laying a block the board can't be tight to the blocks which means it ain't worth Jack. Same goes at the corners and door and window revels where you're relying on how straight he cuts the boards will have a massive impact on how they perform. If you go for beads they drill holes in the wall and blast the beads into the cavity leaving not a single gap any where. So this means one less thing to worry about.

Won't really matter as your going to have to screw it in far enough that it breaks the foil slightly so it sits flush or you will have bumps in the plasterboard. If you are going to batten over it then and board then it won't need to bust the foil.

Don't use the pir type in the cavity. Do as Peter has said above and get eps beads blown in to a 150mm cavity. This will result in a far better job than using celotex type boards.

It is pretty heavy so if it's pegged down and screwed along the edges of should sit on a slope. The pegs are nothing more than 6 inch galvanised nails.

I have 30mm on my garden and would say it's probably too fluffy for your needs. https://www.therange.co.uk/garden-and-pets/garden/gardening/landscaping/artificial-grass/#sort=relevance&page=1&lpp=24 The 20mm pile would do your job. It only comes in 2m wide rolls though. The price on the above link is per M in length so it's 2m2.

Thicker means dearer.

I have used the offcuts to put a floor in my shed. Works really well. Can lift it and take it out and hose if it gets dirty. As above you need to put timber around the edge so you nail /screw it down. And it will need a well compacted base to sit flat on. Only thing is the good looking grass is not cheap but if you want cheap stuff if there is a range shop near you they do cheap grass.

Sheet over the rest of the floor with 18mm/25mm ply except the bit of the wet room. Then build it to suit. As for the raised bit at the door entrance you could use thicker underlay if your going for carpet, bed up tiles or just use the metal edging to form a slight step. I have a 18mm step from my carpet in our bedroom to the lino in the ensuite and it works fine.

Was a bit disappointed that the simba shop was not selling lion King merchandise.

Heard of using a tennis ball but your idea of using a spoon makes sense.

Then you will need to get a roofing square and cut a 3ft bit of timber to suit your pitch. You will then be able to see where a plumb line from the outerskin meets the timber. That's your height. Or you leave it down and let the roofers do there bit and get the brickie back to put on what ever is needed before you felt and lath it.

When you get to wall plate height you will need to work out the ridge height from your plans or you get your truss manufacturer to come out measure up and they will give you a height. The brickies will then put up a bit of lath nailed to the blocks below and a string line to form a rough guide of the peaks. They will then be able to see if they need to add maybe a course of brick to the outside of needed. For the peaks they then build to this line but don't do most of the cuts. You can get them to do the cuts but if they are to high you have to cut it down or too low cut bits out and redo. When your roof is on they come back and fill in the missing bits.

Well I wouldn't be writing any more cheques out until you figured out why you scored such a poor result in the air test and depending on the as built SAP score why your house is cold. Both will be linked but you need it in black and white to prove it.