Declan52

Could you test it out on a section round the back/side that isn't seen just incase after painting it on the motar beads still show through.

For those less than 300mm then you are looking at using a mixture of 100mm, 150mm block and brick and heavy beds. No blocks are easy to cut!! Might be easier to set a height at 330mm and build all the blocks to that height. Where the founds are lower it's pretty easy to bed up to suit. Then you only have to figure out how to set your panels to suit that height.

But going by your other post is your founds not out by 30mm.

You can get blocks that are 300mm*350mm. They are very widely used in NI as they are perfect for a 300mm wide wall that suits a 100,100,100 standard cavity build. https://stowellconcrete.co.uk/foundation-trench-blocks/ For air bricks you will just leave a channel similar to an exit that a service pipe would leave and build in 65mm heads cut to suit the opening. Then build in the telescopic vent. Not sure I have read that right. If it's just two widths you need 100mm and 200mm wide then just build a block on it's flat for all the walls using a standard block. Three course high gets you the 300mm.

Ask them to guarantee the delivery time in an 1 hr slot. If they are late then they pay the plumber.

To date my build is at £108,000 and the only thing left to do is the drive. I have just got a lorry load of granite chippings spread over it for now. I haven't even priced it up yet but if I allow £7000 for tarmac just to keep the figures easy to work with my cost is £522 per sqm. Mine is a 220 sqm chalet bungalow in NI and as Jeremy said bar the electrics, plumbing and wet plastering and had a hand with the roof I done the rest. Took 2 long back breaking years and near killed me with exhaustion but I can enjoy it now. I got the site for free as i built in my parents front garden which helped a lot.

She would know!!!

Ah but you could meet a bad woman in the pub that will cost you more than you can afford!!

A 10m gable wall 7 course high would have 155 blocks in it. Using profiles 2 brickies should be able to do both gables each day with some more run in between the corners at the front or back. Finish off the front/back then up a lift and on to the gables again. Repeat. 4-5 days to wall plate height then 2-3 on the peaks. This all depends on getting the scaffold lifted and loaded and having everything you need heads ,cills and ties etc are there for you.

My uncle used his sharpener on mine and it did get it sharp.

Yep guilty as charged. I only use mine very rarely now as I have all my trees logged up. Maybe 5 times a year it would get used. If it's for some one else then I tell them the chain is blunt but buy me this one, points to image on phone from sfix, and you can use away.

I bought the same and even the file as well. Have had to sharpen it twice and to be honest it's no where near as sharp as it was new so I just bought the chain to match from screwfix, life's to short to be sharpening chains each time when a new one is so cheap.

No way would it take 15 days for 2 brickies to lay 1600 blocks. So are they going to build an average of 53 a blocks each day. Should be no more than 5-6 days. Each brickie should be building 250-300 blocks in a day esp with no insulation to worry about. As long as the studs are marked out to nail the ties in they should be waiting on you to lift scaffolding and to load it out.

I would have phoned his boss as soon as I realised he was a dick and let him know you don't take any shite. They always pull their horns in when you show some teeth.

Only crazy Welsh plumbers who are too tight to pay for a Labrador with ripped jeans do that.

Should do 25 sqm a day easy enough. Some days more some days less depending on how many openings there are, if he uses profiles on the corners, if it's all loaded out for him so he can start as soon as the mixer is ready to go. Loads of variables will effect the amount of blocks built per day but most important thing is if they are actually any good.

It is definitely an art that looks way to easy till you try it and realise 5 mins into it your shoulders are going to fall off and your back is squealing please stop, please stop.

Can only build 7 course high or the wall starts to get very wobbly. On that basis you should be able to do a full 7 course around each lift each day so 4 days work should get you to wall plate height, assuming it's a 2 storey house with no awkward corners etc. After that it's the peaks and depending on how high they are you are usually talking 3 lifts. A straight gable wall with no doors or windows will take no time for 2 brickies to put up but a smaller wall with loads of windows and doors will take longer due to the cuts and plumbing each reveal. You need to be organised with having some one there each day to lift the scaffolding and help lift the blocks up.

I have a neff slide and hide oven. Love it so many different options for cooking meats and baking cakes. Can even make your own yogurt if you are bored out of your mind. Being able to stand so close to the oven to lift the 24lb turkey at Xmas is definitely a bonus.

I got my tiles from this guy, got all my bathroom stuff from as well, http://www.bfibathroomsforireland.com Give him a ring and see if he has anything that suits your spec but for that size of a quality tile I think you will struggle to get it for £30 sqm. I got my 60*60 light grey gloss porcelain tiles from him and they need cleaned all the time!!!

Probably like me just handed the logs into the office and they didn't bother doing anything else with them.

More likely contamination in them. Checked beside me and there are none logged even though I did 3 for a Vodafone mast. Just watch digging trenches in soil with a lot of sand and gravel as the sides won't stay there for long esp if there is a water strike.

No matter what block you choose you will have cracks to fill 18months later. I used lightweight aircrete blocks on mine and have had no issues. As long as you fully soak the wall prior to wet plastering then it will be fine. Are you wet plastering or bonding plasterboard to the blocks. You have the sqm worked out to price the insulation so from that work out how many blocks you need,you use 10 blocks per sqm. Phone round all the suppliers and see what suits the budget.

Have you priced up using lightweight/thermal blocks for the inside skin to improve your u value.

Had a similar tool a few years ago and they are very handy for scribing awkward cuts when tiling or laying floors. They aren't that good after a big heavy lump stands on them though and turns it into a jigsaw puzzle.