Big Jimbo

Gary M. Your roof is cold and should be ventilated. It sounds like it's not !!!! So you should have 250mm of pir between your ceiling joists, and instead you have 250mm of crappy fluffy stuff. I'd be having that roof off and make them do it properly . P.S. While they are at it, make them put ventilation under the standing seam roof. That whole thing is going to cost a fair few quid to put right now.

P.S Good luck with the extension.......Now get on with it.

Fab Bobby Dazzler. Don't worry about next doors deeds. Yours says it all. If you want to build 0.8 mt from that wall you crack on. There is no stipulation as to how much room you have to allow for either them, or there tubby builder. There scaffolding etc is total tosh. Check up on the PWA and get your builder to confirm that he is only digging to the same depth as your existing foundations. Then you won't have to worry about the PWA. Because you neighbour has been such an arse, I would be making it very difficult for them to ever come on my land. Method statement required, and full insurance for any damage they might cause to your land or property.

And we all know that stiff is good, and sagging ain't.

Or a locking joint done on a router table.

What a pain for you, and no doubt a worry. What your neighbour may have done near your garage some time ago is not really something you can look at now. (Bit late) Have a read online about the party wall act. It's not just about working on a party wall, but excavating within a certain distance to somebody's property etc. Have you looked at your house deeds to see what this clause with regards allowing access for wall inspection is ? If you can tell us what it actually say's in the deeds, we might be able to help more.

Have you got your Aluminium roof on battens , and cross battens ? Is there a vertilation space under the Ali roof ? If you have no insulation above your posi beams, and only inbetween, you have a cold roof which should be vented.... I am no expert, but i don't like the sound of your roof make-up

There are a lot of smart people on here, and i am not One of them. ? Making things stiffer can only be a good thing in my opinion.

Fair play Conor fella. externally mounted extractor units are imo the best. However they are blooming expensive. Well done for sorting it out on a diy basis.

I have worked out that Kingspan K7 100mm above rafter, and 100mm inbetween would give me 0.1. However, it would be a right pain in the butt to do. An alternative will be leaving the roof cold, and putting 150mm of warmcell between the ceiling rafters, and 300mm of warmcell on top of that (total 450mm) with a vcl under the ceiling rafters, a 50mm service batten, 12.5mm plasterboard and skim would give me a "u" value of 0.09. I would just have to make sure that i left the eaves open (Not to hard) to allow the roof to breath. (ie; cold above the insulation. It will be interesting to see the price difference, but given the price of K7 and the hassle, i think it might be the way to go.

Just a thought. What about if i put a vcl layer under my ceiling layer (rafters) a service batten, (for wires etc) then plasterboard and skim. Then insulates my sloping hipped sides. with like 150mm in between, and 50mm over ? would this make my roof a "Warm" roof ? Would having my vcl layer just above my ceiling be a problem? I think i read somewhere that for a warm roof whatever insulation is outside the envelope has to be the same as whats inbetween. (ie; 50mm outside, 50mm between etc ???) Thanks for your help.

Morning guys and girls. having a bit of a mare, working out my insulation. Floor, no problem, External walls, no problem, but then i come to my roof. Shallow pitch on all sides leading upto a flat top. Pitch aprox 25 to 30 degrees. Trusses at 600 centres. As im going to all the effort of doing everything i can to make my walls airtight, with a membrane, and a service gap, i'd like to try and make my ceiling on the first floor as good if possible. leaving the roof space cold. That way i can run a vcl at ceiling level, tying it into the external walls, and creating my airtightish bubble. The total height of the roof space will only be about 1400mm high, and being triangulated trusses, there is no way i'm going to be able to get up there to insulate after , or no chance of getting a membrane around the inside of the trusses, due to all the triangulation timbers. So i am looking at insulating at ceiling level. and though about some sort of fluffy stuff between the rafters, and continuous layer of PIR under. Then battens to provide a service gap for wires, plasterboard, and skim. The problem is the u values i am getting are pants....Any smart ideas ?

Go on Toughbuttercup. People constantly make excuses for planners in councils. Poor things have so much to deal with etc. Me, i'm a plain speaker, and think they are just $hite. Temp. my planner told me on the phone that he thought my idea for Two smaller houses on the plot, instead of One large one, was a great idea. Then told me it was refused without him trying to put any sort of case for it forward, because the Parish Council objected, and they don't go against the Parish Council. W4nker$.

Jo90. You won't be cutting much with those.

Glad to hear you got it back on track with the builder Adsibob

No problem with that as far as i can see. Nice tidy job.

Hello, and welcome to the forum.

Those tiles (man made?) look great, but those ridge tiles look dreadful im afraid. I doubt you will be happy even if they do fill the gaps with coloured cement (which will quickly fade)

`Beware as above. I to have found old electric mains sheathed in lead in the past.

IMO should have end caps on.

Fair play fella. As i said i like the idea of it, and will try it myself when i get a chance. Just be careful that it don't end up costing you a fortune. It might be worth seeing if any of the manufacturers do induction days etc. Would defo be worth spending a day with them to see how it should be done, and make sure you are happy. + you should them get to play with there materials at no cost to you. Keep me posted.

I have looked at it, but not used it. I'm an epdm fan, and a fibreglass roof hater.....From what i can remember, you have to tape all the joints on the timber etc, so seemed like a lot of faff. One of my mates used it on a garden pub roof, and said he needed twice as much as the manufacturer said he would need. So it worked out bloody expensive.

If it's not the disabled access i think you can do as you want. IMO, you dont want to be stepping out of a door onto a dropped step, so i would aim for your top step to be roughly the same as your internal floor level. 300mm for a step is ok, but 450mm feels much nicer.

Harry the naughty. The middle One. "what is physically and materially added to the original roof" whatever of the existing loft that becomes habitable space don't count because it already exists......So just what you are adding on in respect of volume buddy/

I think you need 2 calcs Harry. The first would be the volume of the total roof area. The second would be the dormer addition. It's the addition. It's the addition that needs to be less than 40 or 50 square mt. I think it's the outside measurement of the dormer that would count. Ie; 6m long/wide. 2m high. 4m deep. The sum would be 6x2x4divided by 2 if the dormer was being added to an existing sloped roof.