Big Jimbo

Anybody got any idea if i will have to close off the top of my masonary, full fill cavity wall, before it enters the cold roof ? I would have liked to have ran the insulation through to join up with the loft insulation.

Thanks @eandg i will check that out.

Just a heads up. I'm planning on building in Block and Block rendered on the external bottom half, and clad in Hardi plank on the top half. Now the medium density blocks are not flamable, and neither is the cladding. However, the cladding will be mounted on timber battens and will therefore have a ventilated cavity behind it. My understanding of the current building regs is that i am going to have to have a fire stop in this cavity. Because the cavity has to remain open, i am going to have to get something like Tenmat FF102/50. For me to put a band around the bottom of the cladding, and a band around the top, i'm going to need about 150m of the stuff It's blinking £25 a meter ! That's about £3750.......Yikes, that is going to be painfull on the budget. Can anybody tell me i dont need it ? As a second question. Do i now need to close off the top of my cavity ? I'm having a cold roof, and have read that moist air in the cavity can rise into the roof, and cause damp/condensation.Is this the case even though i am having a full fill cavity ? Thanks for all your help as usual.

Nice job @Temp One I knocked up a few years ago for my daughter.

That to me looks like a kind of underlay that seems to be made of crumbed rubber. It is often used within the recording industry. Bloody heavy if i remember correctly.

No idea if this helps, but what about Solfit. Panels link together, so no trays required. Might be worth a look. British Company i believe.

@SteamyTea has posted about that Joe [Merged from another thread]

@SteamyTea So do we in GB have anything similar ? Or are we being left behind ?

Very interesting read. The only thing for me is you are again tied into a big company for your hot water and heat. My preference would be for us all to be able to supply our own power for the running of our properties. Solar, wind, or whatever comes next.

If it is the water trap then it should be fixable from below. (Hole in the ceiling)

Nice space @Russdl Well done

Well done @Adsibob. I know that this is not your trade. You will get a lot of satisfaction from doing that.

@joe90 Do yourself a huge favour, and stick build a decent garage. Those log things are often sat outside for months or longer before you buy them. That thing is going to move up and down every year. You could knock up a stick One (Frame) in a couple of days. Don't T and G on the outside. The connection is just not deep enough. Just use a simple lap cladding outside, which will allow for a bit of seasonal movement.

In my opinion a Ford Capri deserves better @joe90

Complete shite in my opinion. Slotted restraints inside swelled and didn't slide. Stuck this up about 3 months ago for a neighbour.

That looks neat.

600mm is fine

Thank you @Redbeard my perimiter calc is .299

I have been trying for a while to calculate my potential U value for the floor. block and beam, but with 2 x 100mm PIR , 75mm screed. I cant get any of the online ones i can find that will let me go above 150mm floor insulation. 150 will give me a U value of 0.13, but i am just trying to find out how much better 200mm would be. Any ideas. Thanks in advance.

The problem with @nod is that i think he is a blinking Northerner. Not that i am against them. My wife is One. Just that he ain't coming down to sunny Hertfordshire on the promise of a packet of Hob Nobs is he ?

@Moonshine Provided your ply is well fixed to the wall, just woodscrews into the ply. If your dot and dab is thick, even more reason to cut it out, as any other way even more of your screw is unsupported.

Yes, but it is often missed.

Having fitted several hundred kitchens for my sins, i always cut out the plasterboard and glue and screw ply back to the wall. 18mm usually brings me roughly flush with the plasterboard. You can seal around these if you need to re airtightness etc. Any thing else is a bit of a bodge. Ok if they are tall units, sitting on the floor, but not wall cabs. You start loading those cabs with a load of tins..... Over time your cabs will move down the wall. The first inch of your screw regardless how long is unsupported. Not a good idea.

Any alteration of the going or rise will alter the angle, or increase, or decrease the length of the stair.

P.s.If you alter, either the going , or the rise, the angle of the handrail will not stay the same.