Big Jimbo

Paint it purple. No reason other than its my fave colour.

I would also try and find something that is micro porus so it wont flake, and can be overpainted easily. Superdec springs to mind. Expensive though.

whatever you use, see if you can spray it before you build it. Then spray it again once you have put it together.

This looks like it's going to be very modern looking. I like it. Can you post some elevations ?

I used the footprint of my existing house, and my permitted devl rights, to show what size footprint i could create. Because i am in greenbelt the planning officer used this as special circumstances to pass my proposal.

Jo, It was Dunster house. If i was to do one for myself, i would have to treat the whole thing before i considered putting it together. The sliding fixtures for the windows and doors are a whole bunch of fun to get to engage. The windows and the door frame are defo a very weak point, and very lightly made. Just not my thing i'm afraid. If you get One, fit guttering, or the bottom logs will rot out very quickly. If you fit it on either a slab or concrete base, you need to stop the water splash from the roof sides where the water runs off.

Only my opinion, but in the last couple of weeks i put up a large log cabin from DH for One of my neighbours. I thought it was shite, poor quality, and i bet that the joins open up when it dries out. Security, and fitment, on the door was very poor. Personally, i would rather stick build One.

My thoughts are that you are going to have to fireproof the side nearest the boundary if within 2 mt.

My brain atleast kicked in , and i thought, hang on the pressure in the expansion vessel is set at the factory when built. Ther is no water in the boiler then. let alone full, with the heating on. If i'm going to slag Pocster off for his poor solweld exploits, i felt i had to admit.

When i had a large office done, they dropped in the edge tiles as they went. Then filled in the middle.

I did the pressure on the expansion tank when the boiler was full, and the heating was on. Yes i know. Twat.

Nice church. I'm not religious, but i would love to live in a church.

If it helps you feel better. I love the doors. That's going to be a lot of drilling into the concrete slab for the bits of wire.

That's good to hear Martin S. It about time that the mortgage providers moved on, and didn't just keep saying "non standard construction"

This is One where i have no doubt i will get told off. I don't mess with Gas, ever. Boom ain't my bag. However, i would like to think that i know a bit about the internal workings of a boiler. I will admit to taking off the odd boiler front. I admit i have changed diverter valves, pressure release valves, and heat exchanger plate. I would re-iterate that i never touch the gas, except to run my old gas sniffer around while it is open. Over the last few years, i've had a few probs with my daughters combi boiler, and i managed to make a cock up...... After replacing one of the above items, i had my footpump with me and thought i would check the pressure in the built in expansion tank. (water expands when hot, so combi's have an expansion vessel to basically allow the water to expand when heated). The pressure was quite a lot higher than the 1bar stated on the side of the tank, so i let some air out...... A couple of weeks later my daughter said to my wife that when the central heating was on, it cut out after a while.... I scratched my head, and went around to try and see what was going on. The resting pressure was 1bar, but when the boiler had been on for a while the pressure rose to 3bar and the boiler cut out. Scratched my head again, and twigged what i had done. Now Nick will know exactly what i'd done but he is only allowed to slag me off for messing with a boiler. I thought the rest of you might like to have a guess. (Nice, the resting cold pressure is now 1bar, rising to 1.3 at 75degrees) The moral of the tale is, don't mess with boilers. Your daughter ends up cold and moaning.

Just wanted to say. I'm not a plumber, and to be honest the next time i do water from the stopcock up, i intend consulting Nick on here, who is so knowledgable on all things water.

I did my heating on a downstairs manifold. Home made, and an upstairs manifold. 22mm hep pipe to each manifold, and 15mm hep from the manifold to each rad. No joins under the floor. The only thing i will say, is that the hep that come through the floor has to be spot on, or it can look a bit bendy. I have found this handy, as each rad can be isolated and removed for decorating without having to turn the heating off. The next time i will have actuators as Nick said, so that each room can have a thermostat. A plumber mate said to make sure that the 15mm flow and returns to the rads were kept to a max of 5 metres. Been going for 5 years without a problem.

as far as being acceptable to Mortgage lenders, I would ring a few brokers in your local area and ask them.

Is it a new roof, or a re tile of an existing roof ? I,m not a roofer, but it looks a bit rough.

I think a first good step would be to have a very good look at any small gaps, skirtings, windows, pipes through floors etc, and seal them all up with a flexible gun mastic. When i did my daughters house, she had a massive thing about ants. I sealed up everything, even tiny holes to ensure that there would be no access for the marching monsters. It made a huge difference. All those small holes add up. I'm willing to bet that in her semi those small holes added up to a square foot. Imagine cutting a hole in your wall a foot square to the outside ! There was a recent post by somebody on here complaining about a draft from the plinths in the kitchen. I bet if they took the kitchen out, the draft gaps behind would be huge. Not a bad place to start, and costs very little. Good luck Zoot.

I think i read not long ago that you had to have accessibility, (manhole) within 20m of a connection to a local authority sewer. Might be worth checking.

If it has got basic protection i'd be leaving it untill Mr Sunshine puts it's hat on. I'm sure it will be fine for 4 months. Make sure it has some guttering to take the water away, and avoid the bottom timbers getting splashback from the rain. I have seen sheds, and log cabins rot out within a few years from a lack of guttering. Put a pick up. We love a shed.

24. Lazy git. I like you started full time work two weeks before my 16th birthday. 3D printing looks fab. If only i could use a computer !

Well done on getting your first home. I have done a fair few refurbs over the last 35 years. My One piece of advice would be attention to detail. Simple things like small gaps around skirting boards. Small gaps around pipes through walls etc. That sort of stuff has always worked well for me. Small gaps in floorboards, skirtings, pipe hole etc, all add up. If you can ventilate by choice it will make a huge difference, rather than just having a house full of small holes. Best of luck.

They look great. What a cleaver little bugger.