Big Jimbo

Tell your builder that the boarding is not the issue. (It might also be poor but we can't tell) It's the fact that the fiberglass has been done so badly that it is not fit for purpose. To be honest, it might last a couple of years, or shorter, or longer. I did a repair to a fibreglass roof 30 years ago. I told them it was temporary. It's still there. Tell him you are going to have the roof looked at, as you have been told it is poor quality work.

I have done some fiberglass work, but boat building. IMO that roof needs to come off. I wouldn't do fiberglass roofing in the UK. Don't know what you are doing, ruined. Too Hot, ruined. Rain, ruined. Your builder would, i'm sure, not put up with that standard of work on his own house. That roof, even if watertight now, will not last as it should. I would be looking for a full refund.

@nod How much screed cover will you end up with above the pir upstand fella.

I like it. if i was going to buy it, i would buy it on the basis that i might not be able to extend it. It would do for me and the wife. Nice bit of grounds to create a nice garden, and permission for a garage for me to play with an old car. I would then get pally with the conservation officer, and try and get him round. Talk about what might be acceptable. If you can get him/her onside planning will be forthcoming. So basically, if you buy it, be prepared to live with it as it is.

Cut with an angle grinder. Ebay will get you a set of diamond polishing pads for a small angle grinder. Go down using the grades and you will get a perfect finish. I have a set that i have used a few times on granite for window cills etc. A perfect polished finished to a meter long cut takes about 10 mins.

@Furnace. I get the above, and agree with you. When i was building a couple of large houses for a developer several years ago, all the contracts to plumbers, brickies, electricians, roofers, plasterers etc, had a 10% contract value retention for 6 months from house completion. The developer thought he was being smart. However, all the contractors simply loaded all of the quotes by 10% and treated it as a "If i ever get it, it will be a bonus" If a manufacturing company is say involved in producing 10 timber frame houses a month. Materials, power, rent, wages, etc during that time could be considerable. To cover this may involve borrowing money which will cost. I can see it from both sides, but agree that regardless of what companies house checks you try to do, you are going to be at huge risk of paying up front for a timber frame from any company. That's why i wouldn't buy One. From the other side. I used to run a small company producing bespoke hand built furniture, Kitchens, Bedrooms, Vanity Units, Media centres etc. I used to have 25% on signature of contract, 25% 12 weeks before delivery due, 25% before delivery. I had lorries parked, and refused to unload them untill funds in my account. Final 25% within 14days of completion. This ment that i didn't have many clients, but provided me with a decent income for 20 years. I was never exposed to a client not paying me (even if i got a knock for the last payment i was more than covered) The value of my contracts were between £35 to £200k Over the years, i was offered a lot of work that i turned down, because they were not happy with my contract terms, and i was not happy with the contracts they were offering. I knew many companies doing similar stuff to me that went under due to being exposed / not being paid. Perhaps i could have made a lot more money if i had taken more chances. I will never know. I would have been happy to have worked with some sort of escrow, but i would have involved lots of extra work in admin, and i might have needed to borrow money in order to fulfil my parts before getting my money. The end result is that my already hideously expensive kitchens would have cost even more. Say my timber frame company is cash rich. My company is able to use that money to make more. In it's simplist term sat on deposit with a bank. That is earning my Company interest. Take that away, because i am now using that money to make your timber frame......It ain't hard to guess that the cost of your timber frame has just gone up. It kinda sucks both ways, But i still wouldn't be buying anything off me, if i still produced any of my stuff. Not on my contract terms.

The only time i used it was for a stage set that i made for a production about 30 years ago. I gave the manufacturer (Bolloms i think) the total surface area, and they supplied me with the paint. Loads of it and it cost a fortune. They also provided me with the Fire cert that was required for the production company. It was hideous stuff to paint. I used loads of brushes, rollers etc. To be honest, i didn't use it all because i had lost the will to live. The only other time i used it was when i did a loft conversion, and because i had it, used it. When the building inspector came he said what was i covering it with. I told him, One layer of 12.5 mm plasterboard. As he said, i shouldn't have bothered. By the time the fire got through the plasterboard, and heated the steel to the point that it failed, we would all have been rescued hours before, or long dead. I swore that i would never use the bloody stuff again. You have a lot of steels. That is not going to be fun.

I have no idea why but i have just thought of @pocster. There is no way that even he, will have a vibrating tool, in the special cupboard, suitable for the purpose of laying a garage floor.

What a pain in the ass. I hope you are able to dig out all the stuff he needs over the next couple of days, and ger it sorted.

I expect it's because the lean to is open on 3 sides.

And i believe owned by an American Bank.

Travelodge is booming. Bookings up year on year. However about 30% of the bookings are paid for by the Local Authority, housing homeless families.

It's the reason i walked out of my job in banking. There was no mercy. Can't pay, take the house back off them. I believe that when the shite hit the fan in Ireland, the banks ended up owning more property than the general public. From memory, my first mortgage was £325 per month against a take home pay of about £1000. However, a tenner a month to the gas and electricty covered it. Petrol was about 75pence a gallon, a decent second hand car, about 3 grand. Now a bloody coffee is about 4quid.

I don't know what the premium would be. My quote for bloody blockwork shocked me.

Basically as @Canski above says, even if the bricks are pre cut, you have to handle more bricks to get the distance. More bricks = more money. More bricks to lay per square meter. Thats why blockwork costs less than brickwork to do.

If your roofer is talking about a double layer of underfelt, it's a bodge, and it will leak. You are going to struggle to get a tile down to 11 degrees. As @nod said that is almost flat. You are going to need a hell of a headlap, and i would still expect it to leak.

Move the top onen/microwave up by a couple of mm. adjust the top door first and set it up right. You can do this with a couple of pieces of 50mm wide pieces of wood/ mdf sat ontop of the shelf below the oven / micro. The lower oven should be raised by a larger amount using the same method. Aim to get the gap between the Two appliances to about 5mm. You will need this gap unless the top appliance door opens within it's own axis. (most dont) Then set your bottom drawers up, which they are clearly not at the moment. The result is that the gap you have will now be between the lower appliance, and the top of the drawer below. The way to now fill the remaining gap is what a lot of kitchen companies call an oven filler. Don't forget that you will also require a gap between the lower appliance and the top of this filler in order for the door to drop when it is opened. You will also require a gap between the bottom of the oven filler and the top of the drawer. If the oven filler you purchase is to high / tall, you cut it down to fit the gap, and fit putting the cut face down. You can always put a bit of silver tape over the cut edge, but really not needed. Hope the above gets you sorted.

Forgot to mention an ethernet cable run from house to cabin. 3 years, just slung on the floor. Been fine.

I am not any of the above people, but my cameras, poe. The wires have been outdoors for 6 years, just slung over the roof. Still working no probs.

Nick above is right, however, a couple of small fire extinguishers in any house are a handy thing to have. Especially when you build what sounds like that enormous BBQ in the garden that i know you are planning. I fully expect that it was just a nut nut. Mental health or drugs. I bet if he was brought to the end of your street today, and told to find the house he was at last night, he couldn't. Try not to worry about the event too much. (easy to say) If you didn't know the fella it is unlikely to be somebody you have actually pi$$ed off.

Not allowed a tazer (legally) although easy enough to make one. The powder fire extinguisher really does work very well. Cheap for a couple of small one's either online, or halfords etc.

As said above, you could do it cheaper, and better, by knocking it down and starting again.

You must all be shaken up. I know that you have not long finished your house. You can get an HD8 camera, poe, with a recording box for about £500. If you have a power source in the loft, and you can get to the eaves corners, it would be quite easy to install. No offence, but i'm not sure you are very practical. Ring around a few security companies today and find out what you can get without to much disruption. I know you cant buy mace in the UK, but can you get hold of some legal pepper spray ? As an alternative get to halfords today, and get a couple of in-car fire extinguishers. The powder ones. Get One by the front door, and One by the back door. Get another One to carry in your car. You can use it if you need to. It's simple, but very effective. If you have ever had a faceful of it you would know what i mean. If the worse happens, most people make the mistake of attempting to punch. If you know how to, that's great. Otherwise dont bother. If somebody is up close and personal, a through kick aimed at the ankle is a very good way of putting a person to the ground. A thump to the solar plexis will remove the air from there lungs. A good punch, or thump to either side, just above the hip (kidney) always takes a person down. Having said all of the above my fave would be the fire extinguisher, which should allow you time to remove yourself from the situation.

Nice high ceilings, even on the flat parts @nod

They might have lost all the old reports due to time since the last visit, and want to start again from scratch. Can you try and record it so we can all have a listen. "We don't appear to have a record of seeing A,B,C etc" ....."Kin chuffing mother........rs..... it was a baldy bloke, Glasses, stubble"......... Oh, he retired, just after the Queens Jubilee. The Silver Jubilee. How long did you say you have been working on this project ?