Radian

Out of interest, Is it the door itself or the sealing (or lack of) or glazing that's the problem? Solid timber doors can have similar U-values to UPVC or composites. It's usually single glazing and poor weather sealing strips that lets them down.

Why did you waste your time saying you wasted your time? 🤣 I'm sorry to have bothered you. It just struck me as possibly being something with deeper connotations - like you say, maybe they all come from a single manufacturer, in which case I think we should be concerned. If it's poorly made, then every instance of every cylinder jacket bought in the last Y years is poorly made. And people who but them at the higher prices are getting nothing better for their money. These are the sort of things I care about when buying something.

Your thermal image appears to show a poorly sealed window trickle vent. I suspect that if you apply finger pressure to it, you'll notice a reduction of noise coming from outside. Maybe not fitted correctly, or in common with most trickle vents, just crap.

Really tight for space as much of the CH control gear is located to the side. So much so, I would probably also need something I can take off now and then to access it. In my parents house my dad cut off the airing cupboard door half way up, screwed the bottom half shut and dumped EPS beads in covering the whole cylinder. Got noting better to do. (take that as a personal statement or a question 😁)

So the cavity insulation guy is saying draughts coming up through the empty cavities isn't their problem? 😵

Feck, where was he when I got our flat roof GRP'd?

On one level it's just plain annoying. I don't want to be greeted with a bright red tank every time I open the airing cupboard. But one another level, just why is it that there is only one product of this type? Part of the five-year plan I guess @Adsibob.

This is crazy... Everywhere I look, cylinder jackets are red. It's a conspiracy. I hate red.

Yes, everyone it seems. Scottish Power came bottom in a 2023 Which ranking of energy suppliers.

That's right, I've never felt any. I guess it's enough just to turn off the fan. The dehumidifier function on my Daikin Emura's must perform a similar cycle (cooling) but having just tried it, there is a little bit of cool air movement which is to be expected.

🤣 You got me. Well, the only take-home message I wanted to convey is that the capacity of my PV system and level of self-use meant I have nothing to sell. No numbers necessary. But this may change as I only had the 3.2kWp system installed late last year and I'm already seeing odd peaks of 3.3kW which can exceed my diverter and house load. I also get that at 15p for Octopus Outgoing Fixed, it could make sense to turn off the diverter for now. But gas is due to go up again in April with Cornwall insight Forecasting 17.05p for Q123 so unless Octopus respond in kind, that's a bust. Besides, at 80% boiler efficiency I have to buy 13.75p of gas to displace 1kWh of electric so turning off the diverter, and offsetting the gas bill with export payments may barely work anyway.

I rarely notice when defrosting is taking place so it's hard to say anything useful. It does make some interesting sounds at the indoor units though. Nothing about the external appearance of these changes (flaps stay in he same positions) but it only seems to happen when they're not blowing air around. I don't know if they stop blowing to do the defrost or wait for an opportune moment. Now you've brought this up I'll be paying more attention 😀

Nice work. How would you rate the hot air gun? I wish I could remember where I bought some off-the-shelf replacement Makita contact modules from - they provided the contact blades in a plastic block. For this I 3-D printed a housing but gave it all away with the conversion of a kiddies electric car. Running on 18V instead of 12V gave it some serious oomph.

Trailing edge is certainly better and dimmer packs have the advantage of not relying on a little current flow in the load to keep them operating (unlike dimmers without Neutral) but I've yet to find a 240V LED that doesn't sing and flicker a bit at 50Hz. The best i could find were Integral WarmTone GU10 I am genuinely interested but I make all my own gear - thanks anyway. I used to design DMX dimmer packs and other club lighting kit in the 90's and moved on to LED's with our own proprietary drivers at the turn of the century. For the lighting in our house I mostly re-flash chinese junk with my own code to work over MQTT. The products with dedicated PWM chips are by far the best for this.

Just curious what you guys are doing with old-school dimmers... DMX 512 dimmer packs and suchlike were fine for incandescent lighting when the hot filaments quietly averaged out the power to smooth brightness levels - but they're never very good with the electronic drivers in LEDs. With everything happening at 50Hz irrespective of leading or trailing edge phase-control, some of that audible spectrum stuff is always going to be noticeable. Plus, the non-linearity exhibited by even the best matched LEDs to conventional dimmers I've found is plain awful. Like I say, I'm just curious - not wishing to rain on any parades. I've all but given up on any non-smart LEDs in anything other than plain on-off applications.

I've got an MCS registered installation but not even bothered to apply to any utility company for SEG payments. So far, if I did, I'd have been paid a grand total of £1.45 @ 5p/kWh. Hardly worth the cost of the phone call.

I had to look up the definition of TOG and google offered up this which I thought was quite handy:

Wish someone would apply one to the Pretoria Government 🙄

This

I've mentioned before that we've done something a little different. We've gone without underlay altogether and got the carpet fitters to stick a carpet direct to the floor. They use hessian backing for this kind of application. The carpet itself has a TOG rating of 2 so that's it. The effect is that you get a nice warm floor, softer than laminate or tile (and sound deadening) but without a spongey feeling. Suits us fine.

Seems like a nice quiet night to muse over the intricacies of such things. Cat 5e is specified to be ≤ 0.188 Ω/m per conductor so doubling up halves this to 0.094 Ω/m 0.75mm2 copper is around 0.023 Ω/m Will it crash and burn? I think not. Ebus @ 200mA over 100m would drop 2V on a twisted pair, x 2 for the round trip. 4V may start to be a problem, but 100m is unlikely. Worth bearing in mind though.

Or... Small area like that, just bond another staggered layer of PB on top. Increase the fire rating, decrease the sound etc.

Sounds fine. I doubt if would make a difference but I think I would treat each of the twisted pairs as one wire rather than split the two ebus lines across each pair. i.e. take two of the twisted pairs into one ferrule for one of the signals and repeat for the other signal line. Dammit, you can't even refer to an ebus wire as + or - 🙄

Who ever came up with it should be taken out and shot. Single ended signalling is asking for trouble over distances when mixed with power switching cables. Someone retrofitting ebus controls is bound to want to use any T&E cable already buried in a wall for a dumb thermostat to hook things up but the chances are it'll be run alongside pump or other power circuit. So easily could have been differential and good for 100's of meters in any environment. Screened twin with the screen tied to Earth at just the HP end should be OK. But good luck finding it in 0.75mm2 RS have this although I don't know why the photo shows three cores. Seems totally daft asking for such a big CSA when the whole bus will fall over if loaded by much more than 0.2A anyway.

You need a better security camera with machine learning to discriminate small vermin from human vermin. 🙄