Radian

Table 6.2 on Page 10 of the expert technician Installation instructions VRT 392f Hah beat me to it, yes I was posting the above when you replied!

You'll be fighting the controller which is periodically setting this so I doubt if it would be an effective work-around. Clearly the wiring center or room thermostat are sending this bizarre command - is it trying to do some sort of load compensation? From your first plot, It always seems to kick-in whenever the room temperature approaches the set point: It certainly seems to track with the onset of the temperature peaks in the room. You could check the menus to see if load compensation is listed...

What makes you believe FlowTempDesired is only relevant to the return regulation scheme? It's the only parameter my 'controller' uses to adjust boiler output and it's working in flow temperature regulation mode (I don't know how or if it could be switched to return). If I set disablehc to 1 when the boiler is running (in the fifth parameter of SetModeOverride) like so: ebusctl write -c bai SetModeOverride '0;54;0;-;-;1;0;0;-;0;0;0' The boiler shuts off into state S.02 (pump pre-run) so behaves the same as yours I have no idea why your controller would be doing this kind of bang-bang control!

I've set up ebusd to communicate over MQTT which I find to be more flexible than using subprocess commands on the Pi running the daemon. However, now I'm wondering about what you get back from SetMode because from the command line: ebusctl read -f -c bai SetMode ERR: element not found the -f (force reading the bai register directly rather than the stored value) results in this error whereas without -f: ebusctl read -c bai SetMode auto;54.0;-;-;0;0;0;0;0;0 I get back the flow temperature set by my 'controller'. I use this term loosely because my controller isn't actually a physical one like the Vaillant VR65 with a roomstat, but my code running on another Pi doing all my home control stuff. This writes SetModeOverride which was cobbled into the ebusd config file by someone in order to emulate a vaillant controller. So at the command line, to set the flow temp to 54 (as read back using SetMode above), I would issue: ebusctl write -c bai SetModeOverride '0;54;0;-;-;0;0;0;-;0;0;0' I have a "heat only" boiler so no additional HW stuff, I just alter the flow temp when I'm charging the store, so it's always 0 (auto) in the first parameter, and the flow temp required in the second. The rest of the parameters seem to have no effect so I set them to 0. If this command isn't received after a few minutes the boiler falls back to the flow temperature set on its physical interface. In your setup, I'd expect the VR65 to be activating the boiler on behalf of your HW stat and room stat - filling in more of these parameters. Not having an official control setup, I haven't any way of sniffing any data from an external controller, so I've just made do with what seems to work. I'd be interested to see all the parameters you get back when you read SetMode.

Right, so the modulation is swinging between 12kW and 6kW by the look of it, corresponding to your max range rating and boiler doing 4:1 minimum modulation. I'd therefore say it's not the boiler cycling, as it wouldn't cut out while it still had some modulation authority available, yet each short-cycle seems to start with close to full modulation. Can you capture and plot the control inputs for bai SetMode

Sorry for the late reply, not seen your post until now. Looking at your other thread I guess you've sussed it by now. I recently left some hints about visualising the modulation parameter there.

Good stuff - ebusd on a Raspberry Pi? If so you should be able to get the operational modulation value "ModulationTempDesired" which despite the name is the calculated value that's controlling the gas valve and fan. If you range rated a 24kW boiler to 12kW, for example, then this would max out at 50 (%) and if the boiler has a 4:1 modulation ratio then would go no lower than 25 (%). My Glowworm boiler is monitored via ebusd and I get this kind of spaghetti plot which shows the actual modulation bottoming out at 33% as it's only got a crappy 3:1 range: Which component is "turning off"? Do you mean the boiler is cycling off as in "hit the lowest modulation" and still too little delta?

Just sharing the experience I've had with some of these things to point over 100m2 of paving (512 off 450x450 saxons). I want to share this because I was sceptical of these tools having read many, many bad reviews on the likes of Sfix, Amaz etc.. So sceptical that I started out doing it with a trowel, tuck pointer and pointing iron like I've always done. But I got fed up with that because this job was way bigger than anything I've tackled before. OK, so I give in and try a gun. I figured one that operated like a sealant gun should have the advantage of some extra pressure to squeeze the mortar so I bought a Cox Solpointing Ultrapoint Gun: I Watched all the video's and followed all the tips such as the mix & additive to use but I just couldn't get decent results. It frequently jammed which was the general criticism I was seeing of all mortar guns. I even sifted the sand to remove any tiny stones as it always seemed to get hung-up on these. Then no amount of pressure on the trigger would 'push through' so the whole thing had to be emptied and cleaned. The enormous pressure often resulted in squeezing all the water out of the mortar and back up the tube! So I gave up and went back to the trowel in disgust. For about a week. During that time I had plenty of time to think about it, while troweling away, and realised that the relatively small nozzle wasn't helping so I had a look again and found some with a wide rectangular slot: Image removed at request of copyright owner. If you want to see it you might find it on the companies web site it is the one with paving slabs. I figure that if I could get it to work it would be worth it so I bought one of these too. This time it went better but I was still getting regular clogging. As before, no amount of pressure would shift it. But I could actually do ah few slabs before having to dismantle it - so I persisted. The usage tips for these made it clear that the mix should be thorough and that was better than just making it sloppy. So I began making the smallest batch of mortar I could in my cement mixer (a 14L bucket of sand 4:1). Leaving this running for a good 30 minutes, with plenty of plasticiser and the mix was super-smooth. Before I'd been doing it in a bucket with a paddle on a cordless drill. This smoother mix helped and I could get maybe 10 slabs done before clogging, so by now I'm thinking it out like crazy because I can see this being a great time saver. What I began to realise is that the clogging was always happening when the joint was shallower than the depth of the slab due to the bedding mortar having splurged up when laying. In this case the mortar was 'grounding out' too soon as it was extruded resulting in it not being able to flow sideways - bunching up directly below the nozzle. In this situation applying more pressure would just compress it until it clogged altogether again. SO the 'trick' was to always apply very little force and to move on quickly if it were to show any resistance because the joint was probably too shallow. I got used to pressing down on the plunger with just my fingers, not the palm of my hand, to limit the pressure. Of course raking all the joints before filling them is obviously a good idea but some would inevitably be missed. Now I could use the gun continuously (only stopping to clean it by plunging in a bucket of water at each fill) and made such a lot of progress that I was mixing batches of 28 Litres (with slightly sharp sand) and having the time to gun it all in (this is with SBR in the mix which makes it go off pretty quick). Still took a couple of weeks but I think it would have bee more than double that without the gun. Of course by the time I'd nearly finished I was even quicker at it! TBH I was quite sad when there was no more left to do ? Anyway, I wanted to relate all this because it could save someone a lot of time, money and effort.

Yes there does seem to be a limit to how long you can defer updates. The other 'trick' the OS plays on you that I've long suspected is that some simple thing like opening the file explorer fails to work and you end up rebooting to restore sanity. Gotcha!

Last time I checked, our 'Continuous At Sea Deterrent' monitor BBC SW and follow a special procedure to make sure Blighty is still on the map if it can't be received.

And in a power cut? I know all this is perfectly possible but with so many different layered solutions, without family help, I don't know how vulnerable people are supposed to manage. I think what disappoints me most is that there was a time when ingenious ways were developed in order to prevent such drastic service shutdowns. Probably the finest was the transition from B&W to colour TV by adding a chroma signal to the luminance. The point I'm making is that lately we're seeing the almost total erosion of an ethic.

I do feel sorry for my mum. We got her the simplest mobile phone we could get but it's still so much more complicated than her landline phone and causes her no end of stress. Just keeping it charged is a problem - I would bet that whoever signs off these massive industry changes has never even considered that. The switch to digital TV was a while back when she could take on new things but now Sky are dropping some SD channels and while they offer a free upgrade to a SkyQ HD box, she definitely won't be able to use it. Heck, I can hardly use ours.

But even at as low as 15p per unit, the divert to immersion is already close to parity with using gas to heat the water at 11p per unit (plus a bit for calorific conversion inneficiency) But Octopus's new Flux tarrifs are paying up to 36.5 p/kWh for export at peak demand time (9.4 p/kWh, 22 p/kWh, 36.5 p/kWh for the cheap medium and high rates respectively). I know it's horrible but the market is constantly evolving, while self installing locks you out of potential game changers in the future without an MCS cert.

No I know it's not worth it with the current energy market but what if things change down the line? What if Octopus follows the trend in Europe and offers more lucrative feed-in tariffs in the future? Export needn't reach full parity with the import tarrif to make battery storage economically unviable. Then, unfortunately, an MCS cert will become a requirement to join in with the fun.

Well there's not much more to say about Amazon (nee Ring) and their bait & switch tactics. Them and the other companies that seem to think nothing of pulling the rug from under their customer's feet. I need to divert my dwindling energies into making as much of my own useful stuff as I can. Which is..? If ever there was a man in need of a free, lightweight, battle-hardened message handling system it has to be you and your distributed sensors 😃 I would thoroughly recommend having a look at this guide on andomnerdtutorials from where this diagram originates:

The Linux way 😄 I'd always want any interaction with the data to be web based in order to leverage the processing power of whatever device was doing the browsing along with some kind of graphing toolset and some kind of DB to manage access. That's for visualisation. To actually do something practical with the data means a messaging system and for that, nothing can beat MQTT. Node Red is just one of many ways of hooking into MQTT, python and ESP libraries also do that depending on what you're developing.

Reliability due to use of cheap parts and in the case of the microwave, an inability to design a simple 7-segment display without ghosting that comes and goes.

I was astounded to read that some of the currently free facilities provided by Ring cameras will be disabled unless a paid subscription is taken out. I'm glad I don't have any of this kit but it makes my blood boil when this kind of thing happens. I see this development as a much clearer case of bait and switch which Ring has already been taken to court in a class action about hidden subscriptions before. To pay-wall-off a previously free facility (that may well have been the deciding factor in a purchase) after the purchase has taken place looks like nothing short of a gangster move to me. I wonder how Ring customers here would feel about this?

It's a minefield for sure. How to spot a fake DS18B20

Except, the bit you'd think they'd be good at - the electronics - is awful in both our washer dryer and microwave. It may be because of their huge experience shaving corners off of other consumer tech.

My Father gave me a load of tools he'd acquired during his time with the RAF in WWII. My favourite was a big adjustable spanner he said came from an on-board B-17 tool kit: When I did a search I found both plane and spanner dated to 1935 so seems plausible.

Just watched the first Taskmaster with Mike Wozniak as a competitor. Funny guy.

Reminds me of our over-hot-oven roast beef fiasco (mmmm beef fiasco) I have a nasty suspicion that breathing in the smoke that evening did all kinds of mischief to my body. The following day I had lots of pain in my lower back and it's been moving around my joints ever since. Left knee today, shoulder yesterday kind of thing. When you see the WHO reports on the dangers of air polution and the effects of PM2.5 it's quite believable that this might have been responsible.

There are Modified Silicones available that have greater flexibility like silicone but are paintable like acrylic. Most big names (Soudal, Everbuild etc.) have an equivalent MS sealant. e.g. soudal-fix-all-flexi

Are you sure that's what you want? I didn't think MDF was good for shelving. I know 18mm has a job to support its own weight without sagging. I suppose it depends on how many supports you plan to use. I tend to use real timber even if it's laminated pine-board. For any given thickness it seems to carry more load than either ply or MDF.