BotusBuild

I see three "valves". Could you explain the one in the middle (the brass one). I assume the upper and lower ones are simple isolating valves.

When I spent a few years in the renewables industry I did my G3 course because of designing unvented systems. I had no previous experience but this did not seem to matter. I did mine through Mitsubishi Ecodan because they were one of our suppliers about 6 years ago. It was too difficult - got a decent set of notes and we also did a little practical work as well. For the two trained plumbers on the course it was a necessary but boring day off the tools

Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere, but my searches are obviously not good enough ... I have a new water supply site survey arranged (for a single dwelling of 3 bedrooms), and some of the documents I've read on the SW Water website seem to indicate that a plumber is needed to provide the pipework from the property side, but this seems to be something that any competent DIYer can achieve. My intention is only to connect to a stand pipe to start with (along with the appropriate non-return valve or check/double-check valve), and I figure I can dig a 750mm deep trench and drip a few metres of 25mm blue pipe for SWW to connect to their equipment. My question therefore is - am I allowed to dig that trench and provide the short length of blue pipe? Follow on question #1 - can someone point me at a specification for the width, depth of the trench and what infill should be used below and around the pipe (pea shingle?) Follow on question #2 - can someone point me at the spec for the valve/s need on my side before I get to the standpipe? Thanks

Hi Yasir, and welcome to the crazy world of self building ? My advice would be take your time (if you can), and ensure that you settle on a design you and your family are happy with, not one the architect would like you to build. Always keep in mind, or ask how is that going to be built? how is that going to work? how much is that going to cost? Being close to your new plot is fantastic (unlike my 400 mile round trips) but I guess it could be very tempting to fall into the "just going to site, dear" trap. This forum has many aspects to it, and you can dip in and out as you deem necessary. Generally the forum structure is great, but if you are unsure, then use the search facility. One thing you will find is the use of acronyms and abbreviations peculiar to the build industry. There is a thread on what they mean Good luck

Although you can't see in the photo's, I did tie the top of the ladder around the tree before performing any removal of branches, however I was never on the ladder when removing significantly sized pieces. It was a PITA untying, moving ladder, retying etc. but necessary for safety. The ladder never left the ground apart from when I was moving it, and never ended up "in the tree" ?

Your right, I could have done that. However .... For the first tree there was the small matter of a power line to considered ? Despite the neighbours on that side having sold their property recently, I didn't really want to upset them ? For both trees there were other trees and plants in their vicinities that I wanted to avoid damaging, particularly those belonging to the other neighbours who we do want keep happy ? Also, I had some leave needed using up, and some stress that needed relieving. Seemed like a good idea to combine both ?

Spent a few days on site last week to do some site prep while waiting for the next version of plans to be completed (yawn - another story!). We do know however that there is one diseased tree (a horse chestnut) and another tree that sits where the front door/porch will ultimately exist that needed to come out. The other tree (supposedly a walnut) had a branch that had started to encroach on the power line to next door. Being an intrepid climber, and armed with a long lopper and a hand rasp saw, and a couple of long lengths of rope I was able to give them both a short back and sides, although the chestnut remains with a small mohican to be dealt with. In a couple of weekends time I shall be back on site with a chainsaw (and the rope) to finish things off. We do have plans to replant once the major construction phase has been completed.

The one thing I am looking forward to once our build is done. I remember lying on my back in the middle of the desert and staring at the wonder that is the galaxy we are part of

If the camera has a DC In feature, can it be used in combination with re-chargeable batteries so you don't lose power?

Can't see a drawing of the proposed extension ?

True, that pic is from June 2018, but last time I passed by, it was still there, and it had been repainted ?

@pocster Got any details? - might invest in one of these before I start digging big holes

Ricco, I am assuming that the flow temperatures in the UFH are somewhere in the 35-45C range, and that the heat source is able to provide input to the system 24/7. If you have individual room thermostats then set each one according to the temp you want, but keep in mind that if set to different temps at different times of the day, that UFH can take longer to increase the apparent temp of the room than a traditional radiator system, if the difference is more than two/three degrees. For example, if you were to go away on a 2 week holiday leaving the temp at say 12-16C, then you would want to increase the temp to your preference 18/21/24C a day before you return to give it time to recover. My personal preference is to only have your normal day-to-day setup with small temperature differences at different times of the day. HTH

It is indeed -

Could get some interesting house names by using What 3 Words. This maps the entire world using 40,000 words - a combination of 3 of the 40,000 represents a 3x3m square. Some emergency services (to pick up on an earlier point made) are already using this when locating emergencies I figure this is actually going to be useful for delivery drivers to our plot when we start work as the post code covers such a huge area.

Is that supply and fit? Or just supply? Need to compare apples with apples ? What components are being quoted for? Manifolds? Pipe?

Adding a buffer tank will help you as it sounds like there is a small volume of liquid in the UFH pipework (assuming here that the pipe runs are probably between 75-150m for what you describe). Depending on the space available, a 100 litre buffer tank should be OK. Make sure that the boiler then has a thermostatic feedback from the buffer to tell it when to switch off ?

Not sure the title of the article is quite right, but that's another matter. I do like the idea though https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/technology-49414835/how-gothic-cathedrals-can-inspire-modern-architecture

Will be doing something similar so interested in the responses. Personally, I would be seeking to have the stone face and window fitting meet up. Probably need a flexible seal between the two, so just need to make the stone edge as straight as possible I guess. It's what you use for that flexible seal that I guess is the key.

... and handy shelving as well ?

Dave, Noise level sensitivity is a very personal thing and positioning becomes a critical factor as in your case. I am just sharing some facts on which other reader can base their views - I spent a few years designing and having heat pumps (air and ground source) installed in various domestic situations, and the first set of questions I asked any new owner was about how they viewed fridge/freezer/washing machine/dishwasher noise. If the design/planning/build timing was appropriate, I would recommend a sound insulated plant room for the more sensitive customers.

A ground source heat pump is no more noisy than a traditional gas boiler. In fact they are relatively quieter. 40-50dB at 1-2m distance from the unit is not uncommon, so just above a quiet library or just below a dishwasher. Personally, I would happily have one in a utility room if it is indeed separated from the rest of the house by a wall/door. Another common location is plantroom in side the house (same thing/different name) or in an attached garage.

I have already done that. The question is posted here so I get as much input as possible ?

We are now in the position of having an Architectural Engineer who my wife thinks I'll get on with ? and so we have asked them to provide their services. They are different from the Architects who worked with our land vendor to get the FPP that exists. We are seeking to get hold of the editable drawings from the original Architects for which they want a large sum of money. So, I want to make sure that we get every last thing from them that will help the Architectural Engineer to make the changes to the plans that we would like to get through the planners. What information - drawings, surveys etc. should I be asking for the original Architect to supply in exchange for the large sum of money? The AE is going to provide a list as well, before anyone asks. Thanks Stuart

Still waiting for architects to respond - anyone would think there was a house building boom taking place. ?