BotusBuild

I'd like the original switch for some contractors 🤣

Scaffold planks on the slab, held down with lots of high density concrete blocks although some very high winds moved even those prior to the pour day. We did use dome shorter (40mm) concrete screws with an extra washer or two in places as well.

Used shuttering boards at the moment 🙂

Well done Mrs nod

I didn't want to over dramatise 😂 but yes, the first of the 4 ops she has had has been marked up by the medical staff as a life saver

Some minor things I noticed when taking down all the bracing yesterday but nothing major

Decision to be made. There is a post somewhere about hot knifing pipe and conduits runs into the insulation. In fact I think I volunteered the site for someone to make video about it 😂

I’ve been meaning to provide an update on the progress of this build for a while, and I find myself with a spare couple of work hours 🙂 At the end of December 2021, we left you with 95% of the lower floor walls complete, and looking forward to getting the first set of steels installed. Of course, last winter’s weather, including some furious storms, had a thing or two to say about that, which included me going down at short notice and staying in the local Travelodge (other chains are available) ready for the inevitable turmoil that would greet me after the 90mph storm. It turned out not to be too bad, with only limited damage to the caravan awning, and some items moved around the plot. In early March we decided to make our first visit since that storm, and were greeted by a lovely surprise - the first set of steels were in place. I am still amazed at the lack of communication from some building industry people, but as I am told by the locals “its Cornwall”. It was time to order the next set of materials to get to the upper floor stage, which we wanted to get done by the end of June/mid July (it’s always good to have a target even though you won’t meet it 🙂 ). This included joists, flooring, the next set of Nudura and wood to create partition walls. In the meantime, we got started with applying the over-specced, and over-engineeed waterproofing scheme that our “professional” had stated we needed after deciding that their first spec was not up to the mustard. Can I just say at this point - there is an awful lot of discrepancy with what we self-builders are being told is required, and even after asking a lot of dumb questions, it’s almost impossible to get a straight and consistent answer, even from the same person sometimes. This is where having some common sense mixed with an engineering/technical background does come in extremely handy. Suffice it to say, that I have ditched some of the “uprated” waterproofing spec on the basis that logically it was overkill for the build type and soil conditions. Some will question “what about building warranty/guarantee” which is fair, but on the basis that we are not intending to sell and to live there for many decades to come, we are prepared to take what is a very small risk on this. Come early May, and with careful planning and scheduling I had 3 major deliveries lined up for the same day. The careful scheduling went South of course, and everything turned up within an hour of each other. 3.5 non-stop hours of handballing Nudura ICF, webjoists and floorboards, a 150kg, 6m long glulam beam (more of which later) and enough wood to build an ark (at least that what is seemed like at the time), I was a gibbering wreck, only fit to nurse a mug of tea and a heavily bruised thigh (did I mention a glulam beam?). For 5 weeks between the end of May and the beginning of July, supporting partition walls were created and installed, joists hangers and joists put up and some flooring. This work also included the installation of that 6m glulam beam which was a one day job on its own. So finally, at the beginning of July we were ready to miss our end of June/mid July target date but roped in some family members to help get us cracking on doing the second floor Nudura walling (the pic of the family is from July 10). . We were still on for an end of July concrete pour, until …… I would insert some pictures, but cannot take responsibility for any impact they have on the squeamish and faint of heart. Neither we, or any of the medical staff who have been involved with the treatment, can put our finger on where the infection came from but shortly after that July 10th picture of the family, the wife was struck down with Cellulitis that turned into necrotising fasciitis, which could have led to sepsis. If you read the link, you will realise that building a house suddenly becomes the least important thing on your mind. However, I am happy to report that the first operation saved her foot, and quite possibly her life, and the subsequent 3 operations to clean and repair the foot have been traumatic and very worrying. She is now on the mend but ….. I AM DOWN A LABOURER. Thanks to the NHS, however, and the enforced hospitalisations, and visiting being taken care of by other family and friends, the wife was able to send me to Cornwall (rather than Coventry) and I managed to get the walls finished and the concrete pour took place on September 9th. Now to wait for the second set of steels to go in, and I can order the roof joists. We might be semi weathertight for the winger 🙂

Good call

Glad that is not in my place - but it wouldn't be as I did mine myself, and my perfectionism would not allow it. I would love to hear what the manufacturers have to say.

Looking at the different colouration (is that a word?) of the underside of the wood in the photo it would appear that any one (or combination) of these has happened: Has the wall been rebuilt or repaired in the past that you know of? and been rebuilt in the wrong place? Has someone hit the wall and shifted it backwards? (just putting the option out there) Has there been ground movement that has resulted in the wall moving as well? Has the roof been repaired in the past that you know of? and the repair resulted in the wood ending up in the wrong place?

In need of a sanity check/advice please ... Previously I have seen 150mm as the diameter for inlet and exhaust pipes for an MVHR unit. I haven't yet got a final design or spec for the system we will install, but want to leave some suitable holes in the ICF wall when it is poured. My thinking is to leave a pair of 200mm diameter holes to be on the safe side as I can't imagine needing anything bigger. Brief build info if it helps - the finished floor area will be approx 260 sq m, 3 bed, 2 bathroom, open plan kitchen/dining/lounge, entrance hall, hall and stairs, Workroom, Store room

I used 100/110mm blue twinwall for the water, and 50mm black for electric and comms (2 separate ducts). I bought it as a coil, but what you have linked to will work as well. Your groundworker, if you are using one, should be able to advise 🙂 TIP: If you buy it with draw string in, make sure not to pull it out. I used the tin stuff that was in ours to pull through some stronger blue pull chords. Tie them off securely and label well and clearly until it is time to feed things through

Paul, [the following is neither advice, or legal guidance 🙂 ] I am self-building, quite literally. I consider myself to be the domestic client (although that could be SWMBO), and the principal contractor. I therefore know where problems may occur for pretty much everything I am doing myself and I don't do RA's fro each little job, and neither have I notified HSE. Three items so far I have not done myself - groundworks, erecting steel and pouring concrete. In each case I have met with the people carrying out the work, before they start, shown them the site, what I consider to be the "danger" areas and risks, and then asked them to confirm if they are comfortable with accepting responsibility for themselves and anyone/anything they bring onsite to perform their work. In each case they have, and I consider myself to be covered. I have experience only one accident on site requiring medical intervention - a gash to a leg from re-inforcing mesh. Others will be along shortly to tell me I've got it all wrong 🙂

= reciprocating saw? I presume you mean something like THIS, or a power tool equivalent?

That sir, is very neat 👍

We'll be creating stud walls soon. All the timber is 38mm thick of various widths and lengths. What diameter and length of nails should I be using as a minimum? Going to be hiring a first fix framing nailgun and the hire company has available: 1. 2.9x50mm 2. 2.9x65 3. 3.1x60 4. 3.1x76 5. 3.1x90 I think I probably need option 4 or 5, unless someone can advise otherwise.

As soon as SWMBO decides where the sockets are going, we can arrange something 😉. No holding of breath, please.

Been mentioned by my friendly local electrician, and so I will need to check whether putting standard in conduit is an option

I certainly am using ICF - Nudura, and received delivery of next floor kit before it went up 15%. Not sure exactly when it will be going in place. But I am happy and wiling to provide a film set when I want channels cutting in EPS for my low smoke cabling and water pipes 🙂

This will save me hours !!!!

Feeling both silly and satisfied at the same time right now. I read the (bleep) manual before starting, setup the two levers on the drill and set to drilling 26 - 30 holes in concrete. 14 holes in, over two days, and a lot of aching joints and muscles last week, I started up again this morning before the rain comes. 2 more hours done and I think that lever is showing a drill, not a hammer. Flick. OMFG. 10 minutes later, 2 holes done. Hallelujah, hallelujah, hallelujah. The rain is now arrived, so waiting until tomorrow so as not to mix water and electricity. But now looking forward to the job 🙂🙂

m-2 is "per metre square", not per metre of depth? If I'm right, then the 9% improvement is irrelevant of how thick the slabs are

which is CLS timber 🙂 and what I intend to do (the metal sidetrack is curiosity only). SE doesn't specifiy whether treated or not, hence the OP Untreated is my preference purely from a cost perspective, and it seems logical to me (but never let logic get in the way of a good building reg!!)

Plus 1 MF out performs timber I should have said, this studwork will be supporting the upper floor. Is the metal/MF robust enough for this (I am basing my query on the flimsy partition stuff I have seen in office refurbishments over the years which wouldn't support floors)