BotusBuild

Anyone got any comments on this please

While that is definitely a good perception, traditional brick and block houses can be built to meet new building regs, and can be built to exceed. The key to any build where you want to minimise in the energy input to the final build is insulation, insulation, insulation, and that includes air-tightness. What you need (in my personal opinion) is a youngish builder who already has a reasonable level of experience, who is prepared to build over and above the building regs and to address those key items while they are building. While this seems a tall order, the earlier recommendation by @Temp to visit some local "one-off" build sites is seconded by me. Alternatively visit local builders merchants or tool hire shops and ask them for recommendations. I found my GRP roofer in this way (and I am very pleased!)

*scratch coat 🙂

Hi all, I have built some external frame walls (studwork) below and alongside some windows. My question is what sheet material should I use on the outside (exterior) of the studwork? The exterior will be clad, most likely, using stone slips, the build up will be: sheet material (the focus of this question) weather resistant material (Visqueen or similar?) wire mesh scratch cost mortar setting bed coat stone slip Any handy diagrams will be appreciated 🙂

My guideline is "if I am asking, then it's wrong and needs fixing" Personally that would bug the hell out of my OCD. Get it changed. PLEASE 🙂

I "lost" a steelworker. Never found out whether he didn't like the site, the prompt payments, or met with terrible accident. Fortunately found a new one. It's why I specify the work to be done and when I expect it to happen by( if that is a reasonable ask). If neither happen, I state it will be considered a breach of contract. No, the first steelman never got his final payment 🙂

Since starting this build we've had a handy mound of "spoil" from which I have been taking regular photos from the same(ish) spot to remind me of progress during the "down" days which we self builders all suffer from time to time. I thought I'd share this with you. It starts in May 2021, when the major groundworks had been underway for a few weeks and goes up until April this year - about 2 years. First a picture of the mound of spoil for reference: and now the "timelapse": Since that last picture we've been putting on the warm roof structure, so any further photos from this vantage point don't show much sign of progress. so until something significant happens in August this view won't change much

It's part of the safety features for closed hot water systems - yes, it is normal (and looks different depending on which plumber fits it 🙂 )

Canski, I got most of my drainage pipe online for the exact same reason - merchants were more expensive, in particular Travis Perkins. Trade Pipe, Plastics Express were two that I used. I did have to do emergency buys at TP when something went wrong (and that hurt!) Just think carefully about delivery if you are not onsite. I had delivery to home, and schlepped stuff down to site on my roof bars 🙂

Part is flat, see photo above, part is a single slope of about 9-10 degrees, but essentially being treated as if it is a flat roof. The whole lot will have a green roof on top of the warm roof construction

The Nudura in the above diagram is shown in this photo

Back to the VCL. For the flat roof build up in the OP, if I've laid OSB over the top of the joists how the heck would I get VCL to go down, past the joists as suggested by Dave Jones. Doing that would be a ballache. Surely the VPC should go up and over the wall, with the PIR on top of it? FYI, the exterior walls continue up above the joists to withhold the warm roof and then a green roof. The GRP will also go up and over the external walls. I'll add a drawing later, and maybe a photo or two

Can you show a diagram of this so I totally understand what you mean? Thanks

Why both?

A what? Can you provide an example

The time is approaching for the roof to go on at Botusbuild towers 🙂 It's a warm roof construction, essentially a flat roof (single pitch at about 9 degrees). From the web joists (400mm c/c) it will be constructed as follows: 1. 18 or 21mm OSB or ply 2. vapour control layer 3. 150mm PIR 4. 18mm tongue and groove OSB (GRP installer recommendation) 5. 2 layers 600 weight GRP 6. In time, a green roof will be installed Questions: 1. Any views on the choice of first layer board? 2. Recommendation on the vapour control layer to install 3. So many to choose from - which PIR should I use?

Take a look at this for starters - option 2 or 3 would be suitable - Nuheat is not your only choice for getting the products

Make it hinge upwards 🙂 Or use something like this - https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hinges/2937768 or for something a little more expensive https://www.eurofitdirect.co.uk/collections/concealed-door-hinges-door-hinges#:~:text=Concealed hinges are hinges that,closed unlike ordinary door hinges.

My recent experience -

House build started before new BRegs

That's understandable, but fortunately I have used standard forms, where the plastic web comes to within about 15mm of the surface

Local distributor not being very forthcoming 🙂

Thanks - I think I am going to have to refine how I search, or change my search engine

I'm planning to use a srine slip product on the outside of Nudura construction. I cannot find a decent explanation of what is required or how to do this. Has anyone done this? If so, can you point me at some good guidance, or be willing to answer a ton of questions 🙃