BotusBuild

That's the plan 🙂 Probably go for 10-20% spares of whatever we fit.

Our current product of interest is LED downlights - colour, wattage, dimmable, tilt angle, diameter, replaceable bulbs, opening size, module or direct wiring. Who knows if some of the manufacturers will be around in 5 years when no doubt one or more will need replacing, and the thought of having different looking downlights in the same area just leaves me cold

Far too modern for me 😁. And I have a "thing" about BMW (long story)

Why I love driving the MGB GT, and always with a smile on my face, which cannot be said of my modern daily drivers (apart from the Saab 93 I used to own)

Its great when things start to take shape to your plans. Keep going, its well worth the effort in the end. This all reminds me of our start, and also that I need to do a blog entry 🙂

He sounds like a trade person that takes pride in his work and will want to resolve this. Don't feel bad. Taping maybe the answer but let the plasterer deem what is necessary

Fire appliance access could be a planning issue, but can be overcome by having a mist or spray system fitted to final build

You can add images here 🙂 With a freestanding bath, the main differences are that the waste pipe will likely need to go under the floor "to hide it", and your hot a cold water will connect to what I call a "stand pipe" tap. So, it all depends on what has happened with your first fix plumbing - where do the hot, cold and waste pipes currently end? Are there near where you want to locate your freestanding bath, or would they need moving somewhere else?

Now you've guinea pigged it, I know how I'm doing mine 😁

Ahh, blue air days. Had a few of those pulling cables in my early work life

Yes. Up to you how visible they are

Is the 25mm a physical space limit? I find that very difficult to believe

If just a shell then install as much cabling as you can, and then conduits with draw strings with long radius bends wherever you think you might need cables in future. However, just pull as much cable as you can now, even if you don't use it straight away. Just keep lots of notes/photos of where the cables end

🤣 The way i would do it - Minimum two pieces. Lower piece [fit first] goes on the lower horizontal, up the lower vertical, and along the midline horizontal. The second piece overlaps on the midline horizontal, goes up the upper vertical and then over the top.

I've put conduits in to run extra cables from plant room on ground floor to roof level for things like solar and aerial cabling. All have draw chords ready to pull cable

Spinny, The pipes will most likely all be push fit. It might be a fight to get them apart, depending on how your builders fixed them in the ground (hopefully they didn't set in concrete). If you do get them apart check the rubber seals are not damaged before trying to re-use them - if they are, then easier to replace the whole fitting fo peace of mind. You will likely need to do some pipe cutting to be able to move the trap/gulley closer to the Y-branch. Lots of measuring and checking and imagery in your head as to how it will all fit back together. Take you time with the refitting and it will all slot into place. Don't beat yourself up if you end up having to recut pipes a couple of times

Three things that might help: 1. Some photos of what you have currently (the as built situation) 2. An index of what those numbers in the diagrams are (for example 8. Insulation) 3. An indication of precisely which pieces you are expecting to get fabricated

Err, yeah. Asking for recommendations before making a choice 🙂

Are the bulbs replaceable in those?

But today we have YouTube to get trained. (Dons tin hat and exist stage left)

The three must have criteria are the subject line 😉 We have an open plan area that has a 100 slope. We need tilting downlights, something with about 900 total - 450 each way. We know this will only be available in 1 plane (unless you know otherwise) Looking for recommendations- thanks

Marc, Thorough write up. Well done for taking the time to do this. Sounds like Samsung have chosen to rename what the majority of ASHP manufacturers refer to as Weather Compensation (WC) to Waterlaw. The settings you describe are the details of what that majority refer to as a WC curve (strictly a few straight lines).

Thank you all. May go for the concrete sealer for now and properly floor it if it gets turned into a bedroom later down the line. FYI- Nick, it's heated so things'll be warm. I'll save the expensive epoxy for MY garage 😁

We have a large room that will initially be used as our attic (as we don't have one). It will have a Cemfloor screed poured next week, and we want to stop the dust that might/will occur from general foot traffic. I'm thinking of using something like a garage floor paint, or possibly an even more resilient resin or epoxy resin coating. Any recommendations for what to use? Seen this in FB advert land - resincoat.co.uk - anyone used it?

I know what I would be doing and it doesn't involve a repair of any kind. If the installer/manufacturer insists let them do it on the proviso that they fully understand that if the repairs are not satisfactory then a replacement will be installed instead.