jamiehamy

My friend who works for Scottish Power told me the same. He's going to find out more for me.

I've had a look through my emails for some info. I contacted these guys a while back - found them very helpful. http://www.scpwaterproofing.com/index.html I may still use the Dual Seal membrane on the underground section of the garage walls - and a combination on the join between wall and slab. I also contacted another firm up here that specialised in this type of thing - they had suggested a special DPM that was laid and would effectively bond to the concrete and lap up round the edges of the slab. I was too late to use that, but that was their business and they said if you don't prepare early enough, then the other options are all second best (they would say that?!). You can see on this website that the water bars are not really suitable for a slab/wall join - I doubt any builder in the world could lay the seal, build the ICF to the required heigh and have it all poured in the dry. Waterproofing - it's a world of its' own!

Because of its exposed to water, it will expand and me useless. We had several months between slab pour and the icf wall pour. Would have been absolutely impossible to keep it dry. Im not that convinced that drying and blow torching is acceptable - assumption being it would shrink back and then expand when rewetted again.

It was one of the factors, yes. Thwere are of course different products but when I looked I looked it to it I was of the view it was unlikely to be effective. In addition however the backfill will be rock and there is almost no possibility of the water levels building up, so runnjng some drainage pipe as well as a rock backfill will mean no water pressure. We will soon be doinf the backfill as part of finishing the driveway, will be tanking with Bostick Aqueprufe which, according to its own data sheet, will adhere to XPS. We will tank the outer icf with that and put in cheap fibre board to protect from puncture.

As an aside, the bracket - should it be inside the showering area? Id have thought the L should be to the outside? Just wondering if water will be getting through the bracket itself?

Before you do anything @lizziecan you post a pic of the offending area? Odd thtt its still leaking, would be useful to see the area. My glass screen goes into a u channel, which needs sealed as well as the underside of the u channel. Just in case you are chasing your tail a bit.

True, would need to see the build up on the at steel. Parker Steel 300mmx10mmx 12m = £300

I suspect it just adding a flange to an existing rsj or box section. I wonder if it's even actually needed. Def worth checking with SE.

To weld two flanges? Tell him to 'f*** off and stop taking the utter pi55' . In those exact words. I would suggest £700 on a really bad day. Go on metals4u for an idea of the price of steel. I'm on my break and phone but can see 6m of black mild steel flat at 300x6mm is £320 to Joe Bloggs.so your raw material is going to be tops £500 to anyone in the trade, plus a welder for a couple of hours. It's not even a complex job, it's welding a plate on to steel. @MarkyPis right, get local quotes. But I'd be wary of a builder that tries to charge that amount. Watch em like a hawk and sense check back here if need be.

Only the area you need the fall for the shower? If we take the shower out for a moment, 25mm is fine to lay the tiles and be level with the ffl yes? Let's say the tiles are 7mm,the grout 8mm, and 1mm for any tanking?? Just before you dig the whole slab out!ugh matting might add a bit as there would be insulation at 5mm. Then as per onoff, just need to work out the size of the showering area and work back words from that to chisel out the fall for the shower itself?

Sorry, I might not have read that right. Between the slab and ffl - did you keep a dropped section for the wet room or is it the same level as the rest of the floors? In which case yes, might be tricky.

What's the issue as advised by Topps man? I didn't do wet room but do have a slight step up onto my tiles (15mm) - admittedly absorbed by carpet - so your 25mm could be 40mm to play with before you start digging a slab? Even wooden flooring will add 15mm onto pour ffl? Or is the ffl including the covering?

By day.

We had wbs in our plans but didn't bother for various reasons. Got this before Christmas and love it. Kicks out a decent heat and each side will last 6 hours. Ours has a double burner, we normally put in half a litre in each side after dinner and it lasts until 10. Lovely to look at and decent heat for the whe front of the house. We don't really need the heat but it is nice having super cosy on a cold night.

Wren also did buy now, pay later which we did. It was very very handy in letting us manage finances. Didn't cost us a penny more but let us push out repayment until after we finished the house. As long as you don't just iusb it out and forget, it helps keep cash for other things.

We got the kitchen, bar and utility room from Wren. Didn't have any issues at all. Love the kitchen. I'm sure there are better quality kitchens out there but you might only know if you are the type of person to tap the backs of cupboards or inspect the sides of cover panels

I used HandrailsDirect/Scottish Ballustrades from Glenrothes. They did the design on the two things I wanted. Brundles despite chasing didn't. Not really sure about pricing, I think they were okay.

For our build with ICF, we used Contega Solido SL to create an airtight seal on the inside. There is an accompanying primer that you can use on the XPS. You put around 10mm on the window frame (the kacing tape as a slit at 10mm to let you put that on first) - which gets covered once you plasterboard - and then the rest sticks to the ICF. It's flexible to get into anygaps or round any frame fixings (for fixed lights). The primer is excellent and the tape sticks completely. We used low expansion foam in the gap for insulation and noise, and outside used Compriband tape - although in hindsight, in the really exposes areas, I would have used CT1. Either way, the exterior seal was protected by the cladding returning against the window anyway.

Lol. Those environmentally friendly diesel engines they've been making. These highly efficient bagged vacuum cleaners that are better than bagless. Their railways that run with German efficiency. Their expertise at building new airports to schedule and budget. Their show case welcoming of immigrants and asylum seekers. Their absolute adherence to EU law. Sure, it'd make you sick! They used to make good cars, not any more. No better than anything else now.

Done this too! 10 studs at 2570? no bother. wham bam. Huh? Eh? Oh.... 2750.

Been there, know the feeling. I gave up bothering for a week or so until I felt like it. Guilt free, conscious decision not to go or try. Did things a liked including bugger all. Plus some vitamin B50 tablets helped.

I'm not disagreeing, in fact, you highlight my next point. Where are first time buyers? I sold my 1bed flat through luck and didn't have to market it. If I did, I knew I'd be lucky to sell. How on earth are we at a place where a nicely slecced 1bed flat in a nice area with great connections at 60k is not snapped up? I don't know, but as you say, first time buyers are not there. A friend of mine is 26,good job, stays with parents, goes following football every single weekend round Europe. No inclination to buy his own place. I know other people who will only rent. And complain incessantly about things that wouldn't be an issue if they owned. If house prices stall or fall, that IS good news for some people but they appear not to want to capitalise on that. So the whole thing stagnated. Is is a generational thing? People no longer aspire to own? Why not?

Exactly, worse for whom? For those lucky enough to be in the ladder and worried about a hit on values? Or worse for those who can't get in it's because of inflated prices? Whoever its worse for surely that means it's better for someone else?

Worth a try? Not sure if heating it before applying will make it easy to apply? Will still need squeezed but maybe easier. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silicone-Sealant-Clear-Waterproof-70g/dp/B0036GEK9W I would also say that in terms of applicator guns, the Heavy Duty ones are the best, require significantly less effort. We have two, and I can barely use the 'standard' one. It's too hard even for me. I used this one as well which is actually quite good too. https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-foil-and-cartridge-applicator-gun/133fr

What you do after sign off is pretty much your own business. This whole planning/BC malarkey can be interesting. From what I can see! Pp is already granted so this is purely bco related. Keep them happy until Phase 1 is complete then go for Phase 2, hopefully without bco involvement! But absolutely don't mention a possible garage again...for the time being!