gc100

I just nailed on roofing felt/membrane. Works well . Unless you need to get to the trusses!!

Yeah I’ll probably see how I go anyhow just wanting to make sure I left room for a filter if needed

I grew up on a farm we literally had pigs 2 meters from my backdoor so it does but bother me too much in general. However we just had a normal old farm house with no MVHR. My concern is that’s it’s really going to suck that smell into the house which was only ever a problem when leaving the windows open before. It’s not end of world stuff as I’m not over bothered but chicken muck is the worse compared to cattle and pigs for me personally. If there is a filter I can put in I will as I don’t really want to wake up to it in the middle of the night if possible.

Just looking into this, as the local farmer next door is now putting chicken 'muck' in the field next door, which I don't really mind when outdoors at all, however I don't really want it in the house all summer as it just so happens the place he is putting it before spreading after harvest is inline with my build with the prevailing summer wind direction ! I will ask him if he has another location but failing that I've been looking into this as well. These could work as well https://www.futuregarden.co.uk/assassin-carbon-filter?opt=2781&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIluXY9Myz6gIVirTtCh2URQqcEAYYBCABEgIcePD_BwE# if I think put a DIY box around that and feed into the MVHR unit. This might be a possible but its looks around 300m3/h max https://www.futuregarden.co.uk/assassin-carbon-filter?opt=2781&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIluXY9Myz6gIVirTtCh2URQqcEAYYBCABEgIcePD_BwE#

100% get a GOOD planning consultant (team). I’m building in open countryside outside the development boundary within the footprint of an old shed. Even going down the class Q route it was not easy at all. In the end I had to get two sets of permissions (1st the class q) and then further full planning to make it bigger- this one we had to present to the planning committee and they passed it (though we have most of our PD rights removed as conditions ). You have to take the emotion and common sense out of the conversation with planning, I know this sounds strange but your case has to be 100% based off current planning law and that only.

I think £1000 is a fair price myself. Paying to 2 people for a couple of days plus materials

I think what you are after is a G3 filter. Search for that and it give you plenty of cheap options you can cut

That won't pass build regs I think. There is a min distance allow to combustible materials. Something like 400 centres between - I can't remember off the top of my head.

Yes, it seems I will be going with Z-Wave or Zigbee as its really the only option at the moment :-/ Regarding the above conversation - yes lights are the main element for HA for me as well.

I have no crawl space due to how are build is (vaulted ceilings) . Most of the lighting will come from LED strips rather than downlighting, so finding easy to access homes for the drivers is a bit of an issue for me.

Hmmm yes - a quick look at a calculator gives quite a drop (23%) with a 40 meter length (12v, 5a, 3mm2 cable) which is probably my longest run by the time it gets there. Might have to have more 'local' cabinet areas.

Why?

I think given the state of the market, I will do the following: radial wiring of lights and switches back to central area, so LED drivers etc can be replaced in a single location. Ring wire (per room) the sockets. Cat6 to some major switching points (entrance, kitchen/living room, master bedroom) (and normal sockets in most rooms). Accept that the best route will probably be IP/TCP/IP type devices as is the area all the giants are working towards and the majority will be wireless. Just automate the things now I really wanted automated, either using z-wave/zigbee/wifi/MQTT enable devices or using relay switching via the central location. Accept that as things move forward its going to be a every changing set of protocols and devices so make sure I'm happy to keep them all working together or be able to swap out for basic switches if I get bored/had enough.

So I've been looking at this for a while now trying to figure out what to do. I *really* wanted a solution whereby all my sockets, lights, switches and devices are all hardwired back in a radial fashion back to a central cabinet, so I could put whatever home automation solution/relays/etc in there in one central location. Thus being future proof as I can just swap it out. However it seems that for domestic there are not really any modern hardwired solutions without going installer only (Control4, Lutron, Loxone, etc) Thus it seems in the DIY/Domestic market you only really have wireless solutions (Wifi/IP, Z-Wave, Zigbee, etc). Insteon seems to support both wired and wireless but there are not many devices compared to the others. I really wanted to have simple push/click swiches rather than 'smart' switches which would be cheap to replace and cheap to buy - these could easly be used to send events to a central controller to operate whatever I saw fit. Going with the wireless solutions, I have to run 240v to all locations, and then really on mesh networks, and I can see it really adding up all these mini-standalone devices. I really didn't want to add lots and lots of EMFs within my house, given like phones they are still listed a possible carcinogenic. The wifi is enough and that gets turned off at night. Is there really no solution for home automated without paying the very high wired installer only solutions or except a wireless setup?? My only other route would be to DiY a solution using Home Assistant on a PI or computer and lots and lots of relays... But if I wasn't around and it goes wrong, it would be hard to fix. To be honest I'm very surprised in 2020 there is so little choice.

I think normally windows bridge the internal and external walls across the void. The frame itself should have a thermal bridge inside. You might be over thinking it as the frame and window u value is so much higher than the brick etc that the effect will be minimal whatever you do around this.

I looked into this, but quickly dismissed the idea. PM will never be motivated to save you money as their fee is calculated on build cost at least the ones I spoke to. I never found one who worked on a per/hour rate. If budget is a concern then as much as you might not want to, you might be better off doing it yourself...

@JFDIY I need to do the same - what exactly are you using here please?

Where?

Thanks all. Where are you sourcing them from? It seems the markup is massive on these items. It appears a lot come from this manufactuer - only 15 EURO for 50m of antibaterial!!! Obviously you need to buy in bulk though. Anyhow I digress: So far I've found: https://www.bpcventilation.com/ cvcdirect https://www.i-sells.co.uk/ https://www.phstore.co.uk/ https://www.paulheatrecovery.co.uk/ I'm struggling to find the perfect distribution box for me needs at the moment.

Hi, I'm trying to source my ducting however I need a combination of round semi-ridged and ridged rectangular ducting (225x25mm) due to constraints of the house. Firstly is all PVC antibacterial? I see some ducting claiming this property but others make no mention. With the rectangular ducting I never see this sort of claim. Anyone know if there is a special treatment I need to look out for or can I use any rectangular ducting? Is there really any difference between these 2: https://www.bpcventilation.com/white-90mm-ducting https://www.bpcventilation.com/blauberg-radial-duct Regarding bends - I presume I need to keep the number down as much as possible and keep the radius as large as possible? Also it seems that the 45 degree bends are straight edged rather than curved (when looking at the 90 degree bends). Do you think these will mess the airflow more? I was thinking to use 45 degree bends rather than 90 degree bends to help reduce resistance, but I wonder if this would negate that. vs Thanks!

Yes I take your point :-)

I’m having mine poured tomorrow. My builders say I’ll need to get it all sanded in a couple of weeks to remove the laitec . However another build mate builder says he just goes in a couple of days later after pour with a stiff deck brush and removes it. anyone know if that’s good enough to do when wanting to tile after? My mate reckons it is but he’s a bit of the cheap side with his builds ?

Never even heard of these before. I can't see them working very well at all (and I'm not talking about knocking 30 years off!)

Whats that unit on the ceiling?

In my last house there was several spot lights in the bathroom ceiling. I absolutely hated them, horribly over bright, and no at all relaxing in the bath. I have a very different setup for my build in response to that. In fact there are no spot lights planned in the whole build aside from some accent lighting.