gc100

I only noticed it after flood (as I was checking how dry the floor felt). I can;t say if it was like it before. Its new gypsum type flow screed with new pipes. The run is working as the rest of the room is ok , just certain areas.

I could buy one I suppose. Would it work through carpet? The loop is working as most of the room is working, just certain areas within the room. Could it be trapped air? I cannot say if they have been heating evenly across the floor before as I'm not crawled about on my hands and knees previously.

So my house flooded recently and the carpets have been up the last couple of weeks. I've had the heating on 24/7 drying the floor out and the carpets are going back down today. However I've whilst cleaning the floor last night, that in some rooms there are cold areas of the floor between 2-3m2 and 1m2 which are cold to touch, whereas elsewhere in the room the floor is nice and warm. I know the UFH pipes run under this area. Any idea what could be causing this?

I tried this and it didn’t work for me . Quality Cat6/7 might work but the wire is so thin you get a large voltage drop over that distance . You might be lucky if you routers can handle it. You can put point to point (tp link) at the same price as 200m of cat cable.

Cat cable is only 100m . Buy far thr most easy and reliable is just a directional Point to point . Cable into one , cable out the the other into local WiFi/router box in your cabin . Something like https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/products/28800-ubiquiti-nbe-5ac-gen2-pnp/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgomBBhDXARIsAFNyUqMWx9hcfz54HsuA_-ZHNyW0IMg4pKw7mFRe5JDvhuA7YSqFF5pYbPAaApRMEALw_wcB Guide here https://wifigear.co.uk/blog/linking-buildings-point-to-point-wireless-guide/ just to say ; regarding the internet connection the main house we decided to just use a data Sim and directions antenna roughly pointing to the nearest tower (as we only had 2-3 bars on my phone). It’s great at 80MBs in both directions and reliable.

I bought all my lighting from AliExpress. The LEDs are extremely high quality and much much better then anything I have have bought here. The lights are pretty much exactly the same as what’s sold online in the U.K. but quarter of the price. One did have a dodgy driver mind.

Ah might be too late for use then as we already have the (zinc) roof on.

If you have it in writing from the underwriters then I suspect its fine.

I've just renewed our site insurance. Too many unknowns.

"Its a building site until you have a completion cert"

Where does it say this?

There is no reason to avoid anhydrite based screeds. You just need to use them correctly like any other building material. You just re-move the lattice with a grinder (it took me 1 day for 180m2). With any UFH best to always use a separation matting (DITRA etc) if tiling on top. Not rocket science. We went with the anhydrite screed as the whole house was poured in a couple of hours and we had no more than 2mm height difference from one end of the house to the other making for lovely flat tiling . It was also cheaper than concrete for us.

After our recent flood we are now worried that our house (therefore life's savings) is not actually covered by the house insurance. It seems the policies are very vague and there doesn't seem any concrete definitions. For example does the house have to be signed off, does it need all the certificates (electric etc), etc. What if you have some things not finished (for example a room, or exterior aspect). Can anyone recommend an insurer that will insure between this transition from site to home?

Am I right in thinking that the zinc/metal panels must be sent to Bipvco to get the PV fitted? Or can I order the PV and fit/glue myself? How do you get a quote from them?

At the end of the day its just down to the policy and what they think they can get away with if going to court. I will see.

?

We just had a very close look at the policy and it states that the house has to be in 'good state of repair' . If I Google that definition it says: We have yet to complete the cladding and garage door, so I suspect they will use this as an excuse

anhydrite screed. We had to pull all skirting back to the joists which where pretty dry. We had the UFH on full blast, dehumidifier, dryers and air movers. The whole place it getting pretty dry now. I will make sure it bine dry. I'm not into fraud. A plumber was used but it wasn't due to bad workmanship . Thanks all for your thoughts. Someone on behalf of the insurance company has been out today to write a report so I will find out in due course. He was more interested in the cost if the build and repair cost of drive as we've read that most wiggle out of these payments as people under estimated the cost of total rebuild cover which invalidates a massive % of the liability. We however have definitely cost this aspect covered.

Its not signed off yet - we got the insurance online and there was not question about being signed off or anything. A male iron fitting sheared off - so the manufacture I suppose. Bought from screwfix. Doesn't sound hopeful. We did have site insurance which ran out over the weekend , so the flood happened before - we could go down that route with them but not sure they cover things like carpets etc.

So while moving in we had a pipe fitting failed and has flooded the house. Most of the skirting is ruined and all the carpets throughout are ruined. I have been working 24/7 to try and sort. I've managed to dry everything out by making scaffolding beds and laying the carpets on top and blasting with 2x desel powered heater, 2x air movers and 2x dehumidifiers. I've replaced all the skirting and now making good with painting etc etc. Its been a nightmare to say the least and we in temporary accommodation. A guy from the insurance is coming tomorrow to right a report . Obviously its looking much better than it was 6 days ago when this happened. We took out normal house insurance about 2 weeks ago as we was planning to move in last weekend. I'm really worried that they won't pay out because we was not yet living there - I was literally in the middle of moving all our stuff in - most of our belongings where in, but the large stuff like beds etc was not yet in. Whilst in the inside of the house is complete bar a little painting and some grout, the outside of the house has yet to be clad, as we are waiting to dryer weather to do that. I am really worried they will not pay sighting things like we was not living there, its a building site, etc, etc Anyone got any experience of this?

Yes for large tiling areas or thresholds you need expansion strips - forgot to mention!

I think its pretty normal to get a few cracks. We have the same type of floor and we have 2 or 3 of these. You need to make sure you use a separation membrane between floor and tiles. We used DITRA mating. My house just got flooded 2 days before we where meant to move in . We've had the UFH on max 24/7 trying to dry the floors out where we did not have tiles and the floor has got pretty hot - so far - touch wood - we've not had any cracks in the tiles, so the matting it working thus far.

Just simple supply/demand

Interesting topic. I have 12 of these in my new build. I should be moving in at the end of the month so will keep a closer eye on these. So far they seem to be working as I’d expect but I’ve not actually checked the room temp independently. I did used 45mm deep boxes mined.

I lived in the south of France for 20 years so know what living in a hot climate is like. For me you get used to the hot weather in and around the house and typically you just have all the doors window open for airflow. The only issue is sleeping - a cooler room makes for a much better nights sleep. For my build I’ve installed a cassette type AC above the en-en-suite and pipped the in/out duct (15cm) into the bedroom. The larger the pipe the less noisy it will be. It will be very expensive cool the whole house over the course of a summer (and not great for the environment). If you can generate enough solar energy to cover the AC you’re not adding to the problem (we are doing this). of course if you don’t really care about either (running cost and environment) go for it. I hate the split type systems personally and would always got for inbuilt AC vent setups but they are a lot more expensive to buy/install. I looked into using the MVHR ducts for the AC in the summer and I’m 100% sure this can be done . However I could not find anyone with enough expertise to help. AC knowledge here is thin on the ground outside large commercial projects. I suspect you could even reuse the ASHP compressor as well but alas I could not find a solution.