gc100

I thought this was a requirement for BC that it comes on every 2 weeks? (and was part of the ASHP setup) Ok as above - I don't know much about these systems and thought the ASHP controller would also control the immersion . From what you are both saying this is not the case? So the immersion would just (normally) be wired up to a separate switch (or timer for legionella control)?

Thanks Jeremy. Won't there be a problem if both the ASHP controller and say the Apolo Gem are wired to the immersion?

Hi, I just happened to mention to the ASHP company that I would like to use PV when there is enough/excess capacity to heat the hot water via an immersion. They had planned to use the Ecodan pre-plumed hot water tank (300lt), and they don't seem to think this is possible. What have people done here?? Have you drilled/tapped a secondary immersion to the tank, or do you just use the power from the PV to run the ASHP/immersion as and when it needs? I'm confused as how this works. The plumber has sent some info on a different system (NIBE S line), but from a quick scan through the documentation, these support solar coils (is thermal heating, rather than PV). Thanks

Very impressive. I know nothing of PIC, also I have an A in A level electronics many years ago, and a years worth of Electrical Eng degree I've not really looked at it since. However I could program an PI easily so probably my best route forward for this, even though it would cost more no doubt, but at least I'd understand it more! Thanks for the info - very interesting.

Ah understood. Thanks Dave

What am I missing? What are Solmore clock mode about - whats different to normal units?

Thats great though. I really want at least an outdoor temp sensor, and the CO2 would be good to know. What 'box' did you use or is it a home made solution using a PI or something?

Could you explain this more please? Does you hot water tank have 2 immersion units? Is the ASHP running the top immersion? or have I got the wrong end of the stick??

That looks great. Did you make it?

Just curious, but what are your hobbies that need so much room? Cars/trucks restoration?

Yes that gives me my 169 m3/h, which equates to 0.39 ACH for the whole house.

I've got a length of 25m to cover to the kitchen area which has the highest extract value. Given what everyone is saying here, I think I best aim for 50% , so in my case a unit that can handle 300 to 350 m3/h even though I only need 170 m3/h for regs. Just to clarify a point though? ; I keep seeing in some places there is a minimum requirement for 0.5 ACH for the whole building , but I don't see anything in the part F regs that talks about ACH at all. Is this a Scottish building regs thing perhaps?

Hello all, I've calculated I need 170 m3/h to satisfy part F requirement under normal background ventilation (47 l/s for my 156m2). I'm aiming for 180 m3/h just to make sure under normal conditions regs are covered as this value also covers the extraction rate needed on boost (which is 133 m3/h). ( calcs here ). This should give me an ACH of 0.42 which seems about right from my understanding. Looking at various units they all seem to state their max rate - but how do I size them against my background rate needed? Thanks

Hi, thanks - this is what I originally was thinking (though I forgot about the snug). I suppose my question is actually asking is: Buiding regs part F requires a min high rate of 13 l/s for the kitchen. What do they define the kitchen as this will effect the minimum extract rate needed for regs given the volume doubles for me?

Hi, I'm trying to work out my calculations for MVHR (see https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VlLv9A2luor8IKdDZZsRVpD_ScxwSVAqbSB-vuwcLOM/edit?usp=sharing ) One things Im not sure about is that my living area is also my kitchen at about 52m2. On (an expensive) quote of got for MVHR they looked like they separated the kitchen and the living area (and snug). Basically they used half the area of the room to calculate the min l/s rate needed for kitchen Part F. Then the other side they are 'supplying' the same amount of air. So I've followed the same in my calculations, However is this correct? Further to this I have an 'off room' - the snug with no door planned for fire regs reasons - (door is shown on the plans though) - we want a fixed, non opening window here, so this might fall under the 4 ach rule it seems? On my plans its shown as: . Do I need to count this all on one single room with a size of 63m2 for extraction 'kitchen' at 13 l/s ?? Does anyone know? Many thanks

Not necessarily. We did indeed get full PD rights - however we had to make a second application and had to present at a committee. It was granted, however all our 'normal' PD rights were removed and it came with a very very long list of things we had to adhere to and certify. You normally cannot knock down the original building as the class Q becomes invalid, which would invalidate the full permission (as its based on the fact that planning is established on the class Q permission). We had to use the existing building and not stray at all away from the form and shape of the original barn - we just made it a bit longer.

The main issue is building supplies at the moment for me. It’s going to really drag things out for the next 12 months or so I would think. Also the prices are going up due to supply chain issues. Also critical trades (like windows) are all shut down. Personally unless you like having a half completed extension in your garden for a long time, I’d just wait until things settle myself.

I am doing a barn (class q) conversion. It’s about 160m2. I suspect it will cost around 450k all in for the build including professional fees. The ‘problem’ with conversion vs a new build is everything is bespoke - all main structural work has to be done/cut/measured/fitted by hand. No standard roof strusses, floors, etc. You have the structural issues and unknowns around walls, roofs and existing floors etc. it is probably much cheaper if you can find a project that’s it’s just a steel barn. There is one down the road done like this and it was pretty straightforward as the building was only 15 years old (mine is 80). I think the cheapest I could build this for would be 300k but I wanted a fairly high spec house in terms of insulation, heating and finish. If you can find a fresh plot building a ‘standard’ house would be more cheap and then just purchasing an existing (or renting) a barn local to yourself.

I'm considering the https://www.screwfix.com/p/wagner-control-pro-350m-electric-airless-paint-sprayer-520w/8314x However I have a lot of vaulted ceilings - what distance does the gun head need to be away from the wall/ceiling? I have a small scaffold towner I can use, but I'm wondering if a roller on a extension stick would be just as quick? Any thoughts? Thanks

Thanks. Are they smooth on the inside that ducting? Did all the vents, plenums, etc add up as well though?

Regarding MVHR units themselves there seems to be a massive about of variance in these. I have been looking at this unit Zehnder ComfoAir Q 350 which is not cheap at around £2800, but it seems this is the unit I'm constantly quoted for mostly and it does seem good looking at specs etc. However do I really need that kind of quality? The unit itself will be in the garage so noise is less of an issue. Looking at one of the quotes it says I need a boost at 247m3/h which this unit seems a bit overkill.

Thanks. Which ducting did you use?

Hi all, my build is 165m2 single story. I'd had a few quotes for supply only with design and they are coming the following excluding VAT: CVC Direct: £5678 (full design done). Unit itself £2023 Paul: £5200 estimate. Unit itself £2820 Local company: £5120 . Includes installation though, but not very confident on their 'design' or components. Green Build Store: £4700 to £5200. Enhabit: £4850 estimate (old quote, might be more now) It seems that half the cost is the pipework. Its all a combination of steel pipework for main extract/inlet and then basically Zehnder’s ComfoFresh (PVC?) ducting or equivalent. Does these quotes seem reasonable? It just seems expensive to me. Thanks

Thanks

So about 5 years between coats then? Thats about the same for barn paint I think.