Jilly

I'm thinking of putting a larger manifold for a future extension, any tips on how to place something for the future pipes? I'm thinking some kind of hockey stick thing?

Yup, self building messes with your head sometimes! Welcome.

A friend who works for Anglia Water told me it is possible to have a sub meter in situations like this. They don't advertise it of course.

Welcome and good luck.

Can you squeeze in some more insulation or add PV panels?

Definitely plan and do it now if you can, but get specialist advice in case the ground heaves. Also check to see if you need permission or if you have a TPO on it (and hope not!).

Mind the cat! We had a finger mower for our old grey Fergie, and it was lethal, because it isn't visible in the grass and doesn't have any safety features. We changed to a mulching topper.

https://www.treehugger.com/best-composting-toilets-5078179

https://www.pluginsolar.co.uk Is this company any good?

Do you have actual 'Pre-commencement' conditions? These are the only ones which matter to you at the moment, as far as I can tell. The council forgot to record mine. I am just trying to discharge some of mine (I love ticking items off a list!) but have just had a discussion with a new case officer (my third so far, they have a recruitment crisis) and we both waded through the nonsensical convoluted wording and she admitted that the council make things difficult for themselves with their language, and that some was incorrect. The tricky bit is that several of my conditions indicate that I need written approval from the council, but they don't discharge the condition until it is installed to their approval...I had to point out, they won't look at info unless it is submitted as a 'discharge of condition', and I can't risk installation which they aren't happy with. She then told me she could do a 'partial discharge' of condition (I didn't realise this was a thing) so this looks like being the solution. Also some conditions don't need formal discharge, and it's not just the obvious ones, like work hours, they keep it a secret, just to fox you... Look very carefully at the wording, make friends with your case officer, and point out inconsistencies by asking for advice on how to comply if you need to, but very tactfully, if it's the same officer that actually set the conditions. Sorry, to answer your question, it depends if you feel competent to do what they want fully. If they want specialists, eg for ecology or archeology you need specialists. It takes 8 weeks before they give you an answer, and I think councils vary in the amount of detail they want, so you could look through other applications of the council website. Maybe post your conditions so people can comment?

https://quietliving.co.uk/soundproofing-flat-ceiling/ This website has some practical suggestions. Don't know if they would satisfy BC.

https://flamcogroup.com/uk-en/catalog/buffering-and-water-heating/thermal-batteries/flextherm-eco/flextherm-eco/groups/g+c+p+a+view Has anyone got any comments, experience etc of this system, please?

Mine was around £10k but I got about £4k refund by sharing the trench with water co

Which pipes are used for firemist and sprinklers in the ceiling space? I can't afford to fit it now, but it seems sensible to fit pipes/ducts for the future. Thank you!

Is it worth having an asbestos check?

We had some to ing and froing with different elevation adjustments, and waiting for bat reports, but it passed eventually first time. My architect had a good relationship with the planning officer, and we had no objections, which I think made a difference. Is there anyway you can find out what the reasons are and see if you can fix them? No much in this planning malarky happens quickly...

Did you fill it (the 110mm pipe) with insulation? I don't like what my builder did either!

As I understand it the DPM should ideally be contiguous with the DPC... Lithotherm tiles (recycled brick) for UFH are heavy only 45mm thick and a screed replacement, but I don't know anyone who has used them.

When I asked, BC said that you wouldn't normally go above the DPC and wanted me to submit more architects drawings. The architect's technician thinks I could get away with asking them at an inspection (a different BC officer attends). The floor varies, the DPC is 150mm to the second course of bricks and the wooden batten is placed at 250mm at the bottom near the patio door (which I was hoping to make into a low profile entrance), but it is less in other places (see other photo). The slate tiles I have bought are 10mm.

Still struggling with how to retrofit the DPM (on rough old solid concrete floor) and insulation etc Am not going to manage brilliant insulation as I failed to realise we couldn't take the DPM above the DPC ( at 150mm), even tho there is the head height. Am hoping for UFH in screed (supplied won't do 50mm, only 65mm). Would the retrofit UFH sort which goes over a floating floor be better? See BC full plans specification: there is a significant thermal bridge, so I would like to use Kingspan Kooltherm K103 as it has a better u value than Celotex PIR and also use it as an upstand. Does it have to overlap the DPC too (as the extern al wall insulation doesn't come down far enough)? Have been told to use sand blinding layer, but how should we protect the DPM from the rough wall bits, is a combination of 'paint on' OK? Would really love a Noddy's guide on how to do this ? Or at least which rules I need to follow...Thank you everyone Floor detail.pdf

https://www.ukpowernetworks.co.uk/internet/asset/a3d0e364-d05a-426b-a202-608102e46409/Small connections to do list.pdf

My builder made a brick built thing, using the instructions included with info from ukpower networks.

Russian Vine aka mile a minute can be like bindweed to get rid of though (ie you almost can't!) I'm ultra fussy about sight lines. We parked a horse lorry strategically and it gives loads of privacy from the road. Also if you have any soil to get rid of, a bank can give a hedge a head start.

Most quick growing plants are invasive, but laurel can be a good compromise. It doesn't grow super fast, but is very dense, and grows reasonably quickly in most soils and is controllable and not too expensive. Privacy can also be gained by having height close to the house, ie at eye level, rather than at the boundary. It can more cost and privacy effective to put taller specimens close to the house as you can experiment and move them. Pleached trees can make a good screen (like a hedge on stilts). Quick growing shrubs and trees can work, like buddleia or hazel. It can be really difficult to keep large expensive trees alive once transplanted because their roots have grown round the pot so they ted to rock. Most trees will establish best when planted small and chosen for site suitability. Fencing/trellis is the best way for an instant screen which will protect your growing hedge, best planted in autumn so it gets watered in by the rain. Otherwise you have to monitor constantly.

Congratulations, almost there!