Jilly

Learning as we go as usual. We have a cold roof main building and are joining the flat, warm roof extension to it and the detail is troublesome. I've just realised that if we put deeper insulation above that specified we might have to go higher than the planning permission. I'm gutted and a bit worried. Is there any reason why PIR can't go between the joists as well?

Does the Covenant wording say the 'successors in title'? If not you might be in luck.

See previous threads, there are some solar roof tiles/slates that are barely visible.

Get a few quotes and try to go with recommendation. I only needed a few piles, but the quotes varied from £14k to £30K.

Our extension (3.5m x 6m) has a small cantilevered porch (3.5m x 1m) on the short side, on the planning permission drawings. The SE and architect's technician seem to have overlooked it, and I paid and finished up with them ages ago. I have emailed the SE but they are always slow to reply. The builder thinks they are likely to design something expensive with steels and has suggested turning the last few roof joists round to overhang and put an unobtrusive post in for support. I'm not averse to this, but is he correct? I'd rather have the SE's opinion. The main reasons I'm worried are that I can imagine the overhang levering the end of roof off if it isn't done correctly and the differential movement between the post in concrete and the extension with 6m plies. Any suggestions/thoughts anyone?

18m2 with block cavity walls

I have to have a flat roof as per the planning permission, but the surface covering isn't specified. My options are: Felt and bitumen. Old fashioned but tried and tested. We know of a roofer who does this. Rubber. Fibreglass. Can anyone give me your experience/advice with these options please?

What do you mean by 'block'? Is it a conversion?

Read this post very carefully it explains what they are looking for.

The armoured cable has had to go under a corner of the extension into the stable and on it's path it crosses clay heaveboard (polystyrene stuff, the concrete beam and into a hole drilled in the old slab of the conversion in places it got wrapped in foam pipe insulation fr some reason. I've got it in my head wires shouldn't touch insulation and the builder thinks I'm bonkers. They've put a lintel in the extension over the services but he has also set it all in cement. I'm here wondering how its going to 'move'. The foundations of stable are 600m, the piles in the extension are 6m (!) and there had to be 'compressible material' between the new building and the old foundations. Are there any restrictions on what can touch the armoured cable? and does it need to 'move' a little in these circumstances or am I overthinking?

Wow, well done and OMG re the necrotising fasciitis. I hope she's well on the mend now.

Brilliant reply from Simon, but especially the 'don't rush' bit. Use what you have and see what works/doesn't work. I've just installed a similar galley kitchen as we don't have much space, so have pared it down to what I really use and got quite a good quality kitchen at a reasonable price by taking my time.

It's also possible to get other services in the same trench and then claim some of the money back.

Why not contact the window manufacturer for advice? Mine gave me low residue tape as I knew we would have a long delay. It's still made those funny marks on the glass that only show when it's damp or cold.

You need to put loads of insulation and some draft proofing in before installing a heat pump or the low temperature heat (about 35 degrees) will leak away quickly and your electricity bills will be huge.

Yup, fruit is the way to go for beginners. How ever badly you neglect the plants, they usually manage to produce something tasty.

I've run out of money for the garden so was going to get loads of manure dumped to kill the grass and make a simple no dig fruit and veg area. I've done it previously with just straw bales which worked OK.

Both of you need to breath. A friend of mine has the saying 'What's this really about?' Apologise. Understand each other's POV. Get an automatic, bags of salt, some time, and book yourselves in with Relate. The housebuilding has driven you both bonkers and you are frustrated that you have spent so much time and money and it's still not perfect... Sometimes we try to control one thing because something else is out of control. You will probably still have to redo the drive, but try to live with it for a while to both figure out what would be best collaboratively, or she may still not like the result...

A lot of a 'high end' look is also about style. It's possible to spend a lot of money and still have it look naff, whereas someone with taste can achieve a really good look on a budget. It's very personal though, what do you like? Can you spend time looking for bargains and have storage for things you find? Style only really matters if you plan to sell at some point.

Why not have a glass internal door instead of the window? It would let a lot of light in and be safer.

Have just got the drawings out, and there is definitely meant to be compressible material between the old foundations and the block and beam. It doesn't specify what to use or what depth stuff, and suggestions? We have clay heave board elsewhere as used by the piling contractor

Hi there, just a quick panicky check please. The brickie is starting work on the extension blocks for the block and beam. My question is should there be compressible material or some thing between the blocks which are being built on the piled (6m) foundations and the old, shallower foundations (0.6m) to absorb the differential movement? It's just been mortared. I'll try to upload a pic

Dog proof and cheap can't really be said in the same breath, but it does depend on the dog...Rolls of chestnut paling might do the trick, or even a roll of chicken wire with intemittent 'knock in' posts would keep some dogs in but maybe not a determined escapee.

I had to have augured 6m piles for our extension and found a local firm to do it and the calculations at a reasonable cost. The quotes varied from £14 to £30K, so keep an open mind. Someone who knows the local ground is a good idea. Self building can throw up these scary challenges all the way through.