Jilly

I 'onestly thought it sounded like an April fool. Anyways, back to my favourite subject, compost loos. There are ones which meet building regulations. If it's holding up a project, I would definitely install one and put the infrastructure in for the future when it's resolved.

I love wood floors but someone on the forum spoke of having both stone and engineered wood in their house and the wood room was noticeably colder, so even though it's specified as ok, it still must reduce the efficiency, so that pushed me to a slate floor. I even risked not using the decoupling mats as the plumber thought it would reduce the efficiency of the floor. I suppose the ufh heat has warped the boards causing the gaps. It seems unlikely the builder laid it badly as you would have noticed a problem before? Someone will be along with a more practical answer, but you are right, it doesn't seem like there is an obvious easy answer. What is beneath the underlay boards? It's very difficult to get enough insulation under the floor in a retro fit, I'm always quoting Steamy Tea's physics lesson about this if you look back at threads. Builders' assumption 'heat rises' doesn't apply if you are heating the ground.

It's a two cylinder set up and seems to be one cylinder which was affected. There's still a faint smell around that cylinder valve. Am wondering whether to disconnect the whole lot and move it away from the house.

Trying to stay calm folks. My plumber installed a Worcester Greenstar 4000 LPG boiler and then got a friend/ acquaintance to inspect and sign off the installation. 2 days later, the boiler failed and I posted a question about the regulator. The acquaintance wouldn't reply to my query or to book in a visit, but the plumber came back to look, wasn't sure how to reset the regulator, contacted the manufacturer and decided it needed replacing under warranty. I was a bit concerned that he shouldn't do this without an LPG certificate, but let it go and everything seemed fine. However, all l week we have had a faint occasional smell by the patio, which I thought was a dead animal in the hedge, when it suddenly dawned on me it's LPG! I could smell gas around the connection of one cylinder and so have turned it off. It was wet a couple of days ago and showed half full. I've turned the house connection off too and the other cylinder, but now have to decide what to do. My partner is keen to sort this out ourselves, I'm a bit scared and very respectful of it. Should we get an lpg plumber to sort it out and redo the safety cert? Shame it's Easter Sunday. There's no way I want the plumber back trying to sort this out as a snagging 'favour' and getting into more trouble. To be honest, I've lost trust anyway.

Could it be condensation?

The visibility splay and gate location etc was shown on my planning permission (no mention of gate design was made in mine) so you might find your drawings are sufficient already (they would be submitted to highways for comment as part of the planning process) to comply already. They might talk to you for advice if things aren't clear.

This is an explanation of the physics behind needing as much insulation as poss under ufh. The 10% losses refer to when using normal radiant/convection heat. That said, I've only got 100mm too.

I put a double layer in mine under the screed (over old concrete). The builder accepted was belt and braces and didn't mind. It's my house after all. BTW I think Steamy Tea will tell you the physics and to to put a lot more insulation under your underfloor heating. Because of retrofit, I only had 100mm space so used Kingspan Kooltherm K103. It seems to be working, but I don't know/ can't measure how much old concrete I am heating up. Most people on here try to use 200mm PIR, I think. Builders will tell you you don't need much insulation under UFH 'because heat rises, luv'. But it isn't what happens in this case. Coincidentally, our heating conked out last week, and using a fan heater confirmed that convection heat warmed the air but the slate/screed became a freezing cold sink.

I guess this is giving you sleepless nights I had something similar. Someone will be along for a proper answer but I have some bitumen repair tape if you would like it. PM me for details to see if you are nearby enough to collect it.

We had a container plus an open shed. The latter only works if you are fairly confident you cont be broken in too. I know some people who have used a static caravan for the purpose

I too have discovered that all plasterers are not created equal...

Who knew choosing doors would be so tricky, I'm getting decision fatigue. My builder recommends FD30 doors for the thickness and heft, especially as our place is small so noise might be an issue. However, I like solid oak doors, the ubiquitous cottage style will suit the house, but they seem to be 35mm rather than 45mm. Any opinions/advice/thoughts?

Thank you everyone. The plumber who fitted the boiler is coming back tomorrow.

Yes, about 10 attempts after different trial changes.

How about running it as a small farm (might have to do it for 10 years and then going for Prior Approval when the farm buildings become redundant ( I'm not sure of the qualifying details)? Or wait for some other change or relaxation in planning rules? You have a great asset, it seems a shame to concede defeat. I have friends who had a few acres and ran some geese and sheep, and made a case for having to stay on site to guard their stock and they were allowed a temporary building for this purpose. Some log cabins are very smart indeed and might suit your purposes for your son, if that's really all you wanted, plus laying the way for future changes. They have now finally been able to build a nice house. You could even use/rent a barn out to create a small shop to negate their complaint that car travel is needed? Campaign for improvement in local bus services?! I personally wouldn't give up completely, but might have a long term plan with very small incremental changes. They are not meant to refuse reasonable applications.

Wow, you poor thing, what a lot of money and no result. The neighbours must be scared of a housing estate..Would there be any hope of commercial use of the barns? Could you salvage something that way?

No, we've only got the boiler, so it's difficult to check

I'm fairly certain which bottle is full. The Boiler (Worcester Greenstar 4000) giving code 227. I changed the gas before when we cemented the slabs and put back the part used bottle, and it was ok. I decided not to connect the full bottle to get an idea of how long a bottle lasts and that seems to have triggered the problem perhaps?

Have tried several things: swapped the bottles in case the pigtail was faulty, or the cylinder was supplied empty.

Hi there. We ran out of gas and from what I can tell, the regulator needs a reset before the new bottle will work, but I can't find anywhere in the manual or on line how to do this. Does it need to be an engineer? Its possible I've got an empty bottle by mistake or a dodgy new regulator, or user error...

I love sheepswool and have discovered Topsleeve do a product, but it looks like it should have been slipped on before the pipes were placed. Is there another way or shall I sew them on? !

Search back through the threads, there's a real problem getting any meter installation at the moment (unless its improved very recently) due to the price capping debacle and the collapse of the smaller suppliers. I got mine a few weeks back (EON) and the only hope was with the big ones I had to threaten the ombudsman and radio 4 Moneybox before I got any action.

If you are European, isn't it possible to get much more for your money and better weather in Southern Europe?

It's just SO annoying, isn't it?!

Gosh that could be tricky to do properly or easy at the most basic 'rewilding'. I want to put a pond in my garden but spoke to the ecologist about it when he was monitoring my expensive bats and he said, 'Yeah, there's a risk you'll attract Greater Crested Newts... Sorry, no help!