scottishjohn

another system to investigate

its not just that think they reckon that 20% of a block wall is mortar --so little insulatin value --thin joint nearly all wall is insulated block

I bought the oregon cordless at start of my major site clearing operation I have to say it has been as good as you really could expect cutting 14" sycamore,ash etc --blackthorn not to happy with (hard as hell) biggest tree a 20+" 60ft sycamore I have the 6amp batteries --and they last around 50mins-1hr15,depending on how much you lean on it and what you are cutting -to be honest 2 batteries worth on sloping ground is enough for an old man in a day but it is not a direct swop for a petrol saw i have found -- so if garden work,logs on saw horse --it will be fine most annoying thing is the anti kick back auto shut off --but maybe just me asking too much of it---but makes it very safe for most users would I buy again for sensible use -yes-on my third chain for site clearance -- - NO

not if you never going to need it --which if one ohuse you will not and if you build another the water board will want it to have its own suppy -not joined on to yours

I have water running through the grounds of the house --but it looks like its just a stone culvert bringing csurface water from above and i know that nearly dries up in summer and if it is stone culvert and it collapses then I, mback to sqaure one --Isuspect it is coming from the little quarry avoe the plot just to the left -so its reeally surface water again

thought of that -- but no one will warranty results as it relies on you hitting a crack in the rocks --cos we know its solid granite and whinstone right to sea level no gravel or shale layers here smoke house hole is along way from the quarry --i,m not much over 10yards from the quarry wall where it is issuing from --admittedly at floor of quarry some 300ft+ below me

what ireally need is to find out the pressure inthe main on the A75--if that is 5-7 bar -which isuspect it might be -cos it supplies right along to gatehouse --then that would mean i can have my pump house a lot futhger up the hill --making plumbing and electrics and pump size smaller--all scottish water will say is "we only have to supply 1 bar"

yes I know the smoke house one its 35m --talked to the man who owns it--it has no artesian pressure -so still a pumping job .

my problem is that with my house being so close to the quarry and I can see water coming out of the lower quarry walls isuspect there will be none left for me If idrilled a bore hole Iwill see how thesequarry walls flow in the summer . this is why I,m almost convinced only way is to pump it up the hill from the main road --and cost might not be that much different --just more power to get thew 200psi+ i need to lift it to house

all the ones shown above were done when a75 was realigned and none of the actual water bore holes I know are there are not shown .other than one which I know is a wter bore hole

unless its a BIG number ,my guess is legal costs will outweigh the possible claim vlaue ,and assume your costs will not be claimable at this stage. and i hope you will not be wanting any favours from planning inyour build if you go that way

I have been studing some old OS maps for my build i have found that things marked as wells are not always wells ,maybe just "issues" for a water suppy if you have the option of a mains supply --take it drilling bore holes and then all the treatment the water might need to be drinkable --its not just UV -One man here has had to put expensive chemical filters to get rid of arsenic in the water I am pretty brave at tackiling jobs i have not done before --but a well If ground is easy to dig then it will need stone liner so it does not collapse in If it rock then you going to have to drill and ideally you want water that is not just coming from top soil ,but water that has taken time to filter down through the layers ,which help clean out the biologicals

already sorted out what i will do at new house mobile router for all phone and internet will be cheaper than running a land line in and no call charges £100 equip +setup charge -thats it my phones at work now run over internet --cheaper and NO call charges

you still going to have to line or build stud walls + PB and interior finish ,but price up a proper tanking solution and it will not look that exspensive

going rates I have been quoted is about £35 sqm--so not cheap --but it is also has high insulation value as well

the first post said there should be no off gassing --thats limits choices

closed cell foam is quite a popular way in US to waterproof basements from the outside instead of tanking etc and internal drainge systems painting outside of walls -should then something that can let the moisture in the wall go outwards ,not seal it in

only if you can get at them easy in future --otherwise welded type

use sixflex or tiger seal --that will take an hour or so to stick firm and up to 24 hrs to be solid --depending on thickness--stuff they stick windscreens in with

foam glas chips -- between joists www.dreieck.co.uk £85 cubic m bag

I,ve been plotting same problem with my house the favoured solutiuon by all --If i want to keep exterior walls is to dig out floor spray all internal walls with closed cell foam min 30mm --that water proofs it and build TF inside with new floor slab. OR most popular suggestion from architect and buulders-as it should be easy to be accurate with costings flatten it -rebuild how ever I like -then use granite as exterior cladding Kirmabreck House old (9).pdf

tipex --i what iuse on cam pullies when doing a cam belt

you could have dry assembled and marked all fittings how theywanted to be orinentated before glue was applied

expect extremly high heating costs and possible damp problems in walls lime mortar does allow moisture to evaporate out ,but also allows it to get in from outside or up from the ground below (rising damp)- so trying to have bare wallls on a house with no damp proof course or foundations or insulation is a non starter ufh seems a bit of a waste of time ,if reasonable heating costs is in your mind . not sure how you will keep planning happy with no insulation

what idid was to fix battons to sides of floor joist then infill with pur -clip pipes to that so they were hard up against the 22mm osb flooring-proud by 5mm before floor laid ---been working fine for 15years,just make sure you blank off the ends of the joist so heat cannot esacape somewhere else. not saying best way --its what i did and it works fine