scottishjohn

now if you talking big green houses like above -then the ground they are on can be the worst sort of land as they do not plant in the ground --just needs to be flat to errect the green house I got 30 acres to start with on my jetty -that could be used for green houses no problem --

even the most bent businessman gets his books signed off -- we are talking forensic investigation which has happened a few times in the EU and every time it is stopped before it reports --

and they have never balanced the books for the EU EVER --had numerous accounting firms and when they start finding problems --they get sacked

if floor tiles are thicker --then carve some pB away so they can fit flush once they are loaded with adhesive --can,t be much more than 2 or 3 mm to remove from thickness of PB not ideal but it would work might be easier to just cut out PB there and fit thinner ply or maybe 9mm cement board to get space needed to use thicker floor tiles for the upstand you want

then its not marble --just that you could have polished up cut edegs if they were marble so when you cut them what colour is on the cut edge --maybe different than top ?

or one floor tile dead in middle of door way ? Iwould play about and see what going to look best and see how cut bits at edge are going to work out

are they tiles or real marble ? looks like marble in piccie

well if start wanting SE survey and report that the structure is strong enough to be moved etc --then that will kill it and would mean you would have to have full drawings before you start --so savings soon vapourize . think you need a very agreeable local planning dept - so that will be a big NO for D&G

must be more than that -- cos they move complete houses even brick ones

I suppose it depends on if the PP requirements for siting a caravan are different than a house--i would think not -- If yuo want a very strong and light subframe then make up plywood box beams and if you want them rot and bug proof -- sheath in GRP I am guessing but do not know that they expect it to be made up off site in maximum of 2 parts ,then transported to site so how about you make up the 2 parts not on actaul foudations -- but very close by then slide the 2 halfs onto final founds then it has been made off site and transported to final location as for building on a bottomless peat bog why not dig it out and use 1m cuubes of polystyrene -as they do in the artic circle ,where permofrost and sinking in summer is a problem 2 metre deep and the whole foot print in ploystyrene will support a lot of weight maybe only needs 1 layer each block will displace 1 tonne of water so support that amount of something else ? will be alot easier getting blocks of that to site than 100tons of hard core I say blocks you could just sheet stuff piled maybe a be a silly idea I leave you to ponder

are you allowed to have a real sewage treatment plant and other service connections as what you propose would be a wonderful solution to make one at top of the quarry part of my plot would have same view as my house and 130sq m is plenty for a house I presume you can also then have other sheds on the site like a workshop ?

absolutely a good idea --he knows where it is anyway

that why i say maybe make your own lego ones you could stick nice rock into top face or make patterns on it --so they look pretty sure you can get a tipper truck with bulk concrete mix to site - or tote bags make one a day ? for a bit less than price of an empty gabion basket ? or buy 2 moulds and make 2 a day --then sell moulds on later --to me possibly .LOL

If you got time --buy a concrete lego block mould and make your own I looked ta buying and as you say its transport -- basically £800 transport for a truck load --27 blocks I still think maybe all the labour I would use lego blocks -price of quality gabion baskets is not cheap anyway --then all the time doing them

do you have an approved design from SE ? 3m high sounds like at least 2 rows thick ,maybe 3 + steppped maybe depending on soil type thats a lot to hold back maybe worth a look https://www.gabionbaskets.co.uk/gabion/gabion-wall-standard-design

my thoughts a utiliy room in a country setting should also be the "boot room" where you leave all the wet outer clothing and wellies etc etc --so yes a decent space for that combined usage --so warm cylinder would not go wrong in there

400litre (probably 500kgs+ with tank) sounds like a lot of weight to put in a modern loft considering how skinny the roof trusses are make sure you can spread that load and consider carefully where to put it --like on top of a stud wall in rooms below

Hi ,-- sorry i mis read your first post - and thought back wall was piled up with earth if not then the french drain at bottom of trench filled stone chips next to wall is a good solution you could always go for wainscott panelling on inside --which is one of the reasons why they used 100+years ago , -- cos bottom of wall was always prone to damp and that solved it very common in old farms and cottages

if back wall has earth banked up to it --its always going to be good cause of damp in walls dig the earth way or you have to tank inside somehow lots of ways to do that --all cost money I have same problem with part of my old building project --suggested solution as its a total refurb -- build stud wall inside and then spray closed cell foam on wall --that is water proof only you can say how much damp there is sounds like its coming up from the floor if only 8-10" up the wall but would be suprised if its only coming from there if back wall is below ground level.

resealed over10 of then for local renault dealer -- frame work plastic and not enough fixings --sikaflex cured them every time first time +no need for fixings once it cured same when we used to fit after market sunroofs to new car,before all cars had them --always came with foam sticky tape --soon learned to throw that away and use sikaflex pu adhesive NOT any type silicone sealer - you know you got the right stuff when you get it on your fingers and its takes a week to wear off even stuck engine mountings back together with it when rubber mount debonds from metal with old age --build it up nearly any thickness you like --but give it 24hrs per 3mm to cure before stressing it welly repairs sticking soles on shoes --my go too it stuff for sealing and repairs on flexible stuff

hope he filled it with water --very prone to floating up if not and not mechanically fixed down ,especially as yuo say you have funny ground --if water table gets high with lots of rain seem a 40000litre GRP bunded petrol tank do that -before they managed to get it back filled with concrete --it rained over the week end and concrete was coming on monday had to fill it with water -then concrete it then pump it out after concrete set they intended to fill it with water on the friday waitng for concrete --but someone forgot

my guess is they tried to seal it a couple of times --then did it the right way removing a full panaoramic glass rof is a big job and they would be worried about breaking it only way is to use a Fein saw with a knife blade between glass and frame -+ small wedges2mm to support it to stop it binding on blade same goes for your walk on glazing if its stuck in already https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/303627789857?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-153316-527457-8&mkcid=2&itemid=303627789857&targetid=4585032211933600&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=398226948&mkgroupid=1302921513642151&rlsatarget=pla-4585032211933600&abcId=2145997&merchantid=87779&msclkid=57bae7ae79171e02cfbeb81756d27369

you mean WHEN it fails what ever it takes to avoid pumping i would do it -even if it seems more expensive now -- gravity never needs replacing --pumps do I had macerartors in buildings --nothing but problems --every one failed with a few years someone puts something in the bog that is solid -- like a kid dropping a toy car in there - you got problems only thing Iwould consider is a pump AFTER the sewage treatment -then its definately only water you moving - not a turd chopper

read some -but not all of above this reminds me of fixing leaks on cars --water leaks can be a real pain to find exactly where its getting in ,cos where it shows can be a long way from actual leak from outside Ok your T shaped frame do you know for certain if its coming from the top lip or the bottom lip can you remove the actual glass bit ? if you can then get some sikaflex --same stuff as they stick car windscreens in with clean and dry glass and frame -bead of sikaflexex --drop it in # there will be no need for fixing of nay type once its set the down side maybe is you will never be able to remove it once its set you could same with the bottom lip all depends how easy it is to remove --but doing this will be a 100% fix for ever its basically same stuff as they make glass fish tanks with --but black If you don,t mind the colour I would then tip a tin of aquaseal (silver stuff) that reflects the sun and just a new cheap floor brush and push it around the roof to spread it out and fill the fbad felt joints -- --good dry day and its done or go old school and a tar boiler and pour it on when its liquid--its what they did with my petrol station concrete roof(bison beams -to make it burgular proof ) -to make it water tight --its flat --never leaks and melts in summer and self heals any cracks - I have done that every 5 years on my flat felt garage roof --still perfect 25 years on

as per title basic ball park ocsts to making new roof trusses included comparison between standing seam and sarking and slates my architect was round today with first suggestion for rebuild of kirkmabreck house and stable block too much money for me I think so looking at alternatives and how to make it smaller --but look like same size from the front I won,t tell you the number --but its far too close to 7 figures for me-- archeoogists and SE are next things on list to do