scottishjohn

friend of mine had same sort of problem he fitted a slot drain,plastic type with removable lids , all round the outside of house and that cured it

what you need is a good contact in the under world someone who will give him a limp if he don,t pay up that would better way to spend the money .LOL

air bricks should only vent the under floor area -and be sealed off from area above floor is this house solid walls or 2 layers of brick with a cavity in between them

is the drive higher than the underfloor space that is flooding? how much height difference between air bricks and outside ground level --can you see the DPC in the walls outside above the ground level --It must be clear of touching any ground outside must be an old house if that under floor area was not blinded with concrete when built If enough depth to play with then maybe you should drop in a dpc and concrete over that underfloor area keeping that level below the dpc in house wall. 6" is normal height for dpc from outside ground level

If you got mains elec--then why not just run ASHP for underfloor sounds like a lot of complications I have run a 2 source heat system and as has been said good control to get best from both systems is not easy when i up graded heat source to ashp from previous system --nothing was changed on the exisiting UFH just the heat source I used a mitsubishi ashp with their pre-plumbed tank+ pumps etc which does all the hot water as well simple solution the only complication Iadded was solar thermal panel ,as the tank was already plumbed for that as well 80% of hot water over the year comes from the solar thermal resulting energy savings over the lpg system+solar thermal was impressive lpg bill was £1500 --that dissappeared and my elec bil only went up by £500--so £1000 saving worh a look i feel for a simple integrated system then you get the RHI payment for next 6 years as well

check them very carefully --and if not the right thing then maybe time to go legal "merchantable quality " is the tack i would take if you do go that way start with citizens advice +trading standards etc -they are free that should make them wake up and get you refunded -or financially compensated if worst case scenario

ti will also be a more energy efficient house as a 2 storey than a bungalow a square box is best shape for low heat loss and heat from downstairs will go up to heat upper floor

first job is to get up there and tap it all over to see exactly how much of it is no longer attached to brick work and sounds hollow when you hit it

could it be the drainage gravel around the soak away pipes has compacted,if farmer is ploughing ever year over top of it ?

when you relay the drainage field maybe you will consider fitting a grease trap ? rented accomodation they ain,t worried what they put down the drians not on sewage pipe but on all the other drains from sinks etc before ti joins to septic system

JS-- you are correct --thats exactly what will happen --needs flow to stop it stalling

my payment from rhi is just over £1000 per annum for 7 years = approx £7500 with the annual increases full system ashp + plumbed cylinder etc etc was £8600 fitted PLUS I am saving close to £1000 per year on LPG costs against the increase in my electricity bill so to me it was a no brainer so yes it pays to have a border line house when you do the epc

remembering of course you only get RHI if the system is fitted and passed by MCS approved fitter so DIY would be no RHI anyway

lets just say i know a man who did just that when refurbishing his house -!!!! might be harder with a new build

I can not see a downside in wrapping everything - but possibly water on eaves over time may be a downside and as already said -possibly another place for air leakage

yes there should be an expansion vessel in any sealed system could be your PRV on ASHP is leaking , doubt every much its gaining 2 bar in pressure at the sort of temps the ASHP is running and if you charged it up to 1 bar when system is hot ,it should only go down in pressure when not running = so PRV sounds a good suspect always have run mine at 0.8bar cold --no problem expansion vessel is set to 1bar If you going to spec it right then you need to know total volume in UFH pipes+system - a bigger expansion tank will be no detriment if you got space

have you done heat calculations yet eg floor ,roof +wall insulation values etc that will tell you what size you need as the other replies are saying "fabric first " then heating system -- if you get fabric of building correct ,then heat requirement will be much lower

I was not suggesting you fill entire wall with it--just from base to above expected flood level ,as this indeed will be water proof --been used in yachts-canoes for years as buoyancy and he was worried that eps sheets etc in cavity would allow water to get to inner layer

maybe lay a tracer wire on top of it --so you find it next time

I used a different strategy when picking make of heat pump . after sales service and how close approved engineer not expecting problems ,but you need it fixed in good time and by a man who knows the product price was secondary "quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten "

not if you do it in sensible amounts at a time --it will bond to itself no problem --so mix it up run round the walls --make sure it does not hit the sides half way down ,or it could block it and leave a void ,put in in layers. I used to use it to strengthen moulds or as part of a mould if using a latex liner for easy removal of grp moulding you wanted --I usedit to make old mini battery boxs --they were always rotting off and to the back of moulds that you wanted not to distort -,like 3 piece wing moulds for old ford zodiac,. a bit that on the back of the grp mould before you remove from pattern -its then solid and i mean solid ,really gets a proper skin

2 pack foam www.cfsnet.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000002.pl?page=search&SS=2+part+expanding+foam+&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=.

I think you should ask sunamp for some PCM and make the unit you want JS show them how it should be done you seem to have all the required expertise

i would ask your supplier to explain this .lower the number the better it should be how ever both those numbers are good does not seem correct .

I would just glue the T+G when fitting them together as well