scottishjohn

you mean sheathing or cladding -- sips would only need cladding on outside-- which means sips panels,membrane, then batons and cladding on them , same as you do with a TF house you need a membrane and gap what ever you use for outer skin for either system

go check the model plate again --you sure its not a u2--03?

https://www.kubota.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/KX080-3S.pdf 20seconds searching turned up the manual

the price should give you a good idea on what he is doing --coming to your site i would guess they will be charging £70+ an hour ,if its a dealer and not just a non franchised mechanic yes there will be a service list you can get from the maker if you hunt about ,giving hours when things should be done failing that you won,t go far wrong changing oil+filter once a year on any type of car or equipment oil is the blood of the engine --so nice and clean is the way --cheapest of spanners you will ever buy is regular oil + filter changes

I always wondered it it would not be worth sticking them in places as well with some low foam or thinset adhesive /tile cement/ no nails as you go ?

carpet?

sounds like script for a film . we might as well talk about aliens its about as valid as saying climate change is not happening

the right stuff will be at least £30 +a metre --multi layer inside a hard outer skin--not just normal internal type lagging something like this https://www.uheat.co.uk/uponor-thermo-twin/

well i,m chasing much better one now at same time i should say a small estate is a better description . would love to talk about it ,but cannot I told you wrong the showroom monster size windows are bronze anodised i think --not powder coated

when i get these dam plots sorted out trying to sell me plots with a partial ransom strip up the road side and a pp that has the entrance over that bit . last thing was i told them i would conclude when i got change of planning to move entrance down to the bit that I could go over ,if they would sign missives to that effect and not have them be able pull out and then use my new PP

thinking about it --my showroom windows are bronzealluminium framed and they are 30 years old and just starting to show their age-- so I don,t know if its that big a problem --just a get out for warranty

@pocster what i will say is that 15 years on its still ok -even though idid not go for the more expensive option - so its a "clint eastwood" job "do you feel lucky "

pocster Is this REALLY an issue for me? Will the frames visibly degrade overtime? yes it could be Is was told the same when specing an air con system for my petrola station the outside cooler?fan box there were 2 specs of radiator one for coastal and one in land ,as i was under 7km from sea then warranty was halfed with inland type unit. its do with the salt content of the air in very stormy conditions

JS why did you choose blown cellulose rather than the eco beads as used in beattie system ?

not sure that exactly what i was meaning but i take your point if you ducted ALL the air from the roof void ,not just from behind Pv panels that would be a large amount of air+ heat - -maybe to input of ASHP --that would lift your COP with twice the inlet temp as an average ,obviously there would have to be a cold weather bypass and i ,m not totally convinced temps in uk are comparable with southern europe ,so heat dumping might not be a great problem , could make high temp ASHP very much more economic and more suitable to charge sunamp etc ? certainly with roof mounted/ highwall mounted ASHP so ducting is short

slightly different - -but if you had a air pump connnected to void -- could it be be used as a suppliment to other dhw or UFH heating through a suitable heat exchanger ? theres one to ponder in the search for free energy ? I know hot my garage roof gets even on normal days

so far this thread is just being visited by TF people no one with other build choice anything constructive to contribute , or even pull holes in TF method and why they did not go TF

I think you are absolutely correct TF houses that get put up and get wet have to dry out and that would be my best guess why cracking in plaster seems to be such a problem - very new unseasoned wood +getting wet in transportation before and then during build process --then boarded which will trap it in so it takes time for it to dry out and then it shrinks /moves about same could probably be said for houses built from the lightweight thermo blocks . I had one in my garden --which got wet over a period --i moved it inside garage to use for something --then was suprised some months later how it had more than halfed in weight when i went to move it.. I worry when I see people doing a build and just stop at roof when membrane is on . Its no brainer to me you finish the roof completely as soon as possible ,not rely on the 3 months of waterproofing the membrane can give ,never mind the effect of UV on it and why leave cladding till later --all outsides --then move to inside has to be the right way uk climate is not like arizona - I would not even start the build If I could afford not get it to that stage in one hit ,even if it meant getting trades in

main problem with bore hole is that until they stop drilling the price is just a guesstimate . now you would have thought where we are it would be simple my architect who is involeved with this monster country house refurb got a quote for bore hole then they had to go deeper --than quoted then they tested water and it has traces of arsenic -- not an end of the world problem just more expense in fitting something to remove it so If cost of mains is even close to borehole --that would be my choice every time -- that price will be fixed with known water quality +supply volume and pressure latest plot i,m trying to get --just in case others finally fall through -- elec cost could be 30-40k but would i go wind turbine etc which is similar -- doubtful not a direct comparison to what you end up with

plywood is more expensive than OSB and fixings would be a considerable expense 28000screws! and all that manual countersinking for the screws!- less screws and some adhesive ? all you can say is you could build the house over a long period in a shed --then go and errect it ,but you could do same with TF frames. really cannot see any advantage over other methods even for a self build --as you will be paying a lot to get all the cnc bits made . and bear in mind --no interior finish 1960,s electrical installation and exposed copper pipes to burn the kids --not even sure that should pass BC its the sort of brilliant idea you have in a pub -but then sober up and forget it no suprise they split --seems she did all the saving for years and he came across as a typical salesperson ,had loads of car sales men like that over the years but fair play they did do it , which more than i have done so far . i don't count the industrial buildings I have done and fitted out from bare shell or the extensions on houses but it will happen once I get through plot problems

that bit was good -- but walls seemed like a hard way to do it ,even 8x4 boxs would be manageable and less cnc cutting costs and you are up to first floor in one piece

My first thought was why are the boxs so small? a lot of labour in making each box ,so why not make larger ones , and only a membrane on outside to hold the insulation in place before the "pallet " cladding which still has holes so the membrane could be damaged over time if it moves and rubs on the cladding and the amount of time to make + paint all those exterior "pallets" for the cladding and then the cost of the scaffolding tent for months . don,t think that is the next trend in house building. and same cost as the 3/4 bed one next to it --

If you insist that the air is not cooled then you do not have big enough ridge vents thus stopping circulation you can,t re invent physics to suit your argument --hot air rises -fact ambient air temp in uk has never been at 45c never mind 55 c so how hot would it be if there was no draft upwards of this hot air? a lot hotter and therefore that would transfer even more heat to the fabric of the roof than it does now . a larger gap and more air flow must lower inner roof temp I suggest you put a probe directly onto the outer roof surface at same time and see the difference . you only need look under the bonnet of a car and you will see heat shields working on exactly that principle on exhaust manifolds or any sort of finned heat exchanger -by your thoughts they would not work -- eg your your air source heat pump--? air passing a solid surface will move heat

yes that will help allowing frame to dry out and shrink before boarding +plastering and I hope you are right ,

sorry it does work like that as this is not a fixed mass of air it will have a convection current up the roof swopping warmed air for fresh air nothing like the same as double glazing with a fixed mass of air