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My extension is similar structure, I am using 145 x 45 regularised , and the flitch beam is similar in size but the span is shorter at 2.5m I personally would increase your upstand to 50mm, it will meet up with the internal PIR and you can tape them together. Plus I have opted to use kingspan but the nyrock frame slab as it is 32 not 35 with 50 PIR internally then my vcl then service batten. What are you covering your sts with below damp , mosiac render or leaving plain ?

I have recently designed a flitch beam and had it passed by an SE . All depends on the total loadings , bolting pattern etc , the span shouldn't be a problem if designed correctly and the jack and King studs are adequate. Cold bridging wise , can PIR cover the internal beam to help ?

What is the opening span for the bi-fold doors

The work is poor , a facia board joint strip should be used but the intial join/cut should be alot better than the picture you have posted regardless. Silicone is not an acceptable way to close a joint

Strip the swa right back to the wall , put the cable into a 45 conduit elbow, then into the bottom on the CU

Watching it Procurement is just a small section of his video . The majority of the topics he raises is due to lack of experience/knowledge rather than procurement. I see it regularly, customers taking on medium to large projects after studying youtube for 12mths and wonder why they come across issues and miss their budget because they feel their buying power should result in the same purchase prices as a time served tradesman, or just lacking in experience

Orcon f , it does not crack or shrink like decorators caulk etc

Sorry I read that as you were using the PIR externally 🤦‍♂️. All your questions answered, might be worth just reminding your plumbers ,electricians not to poke holes through the vcl once it's fitted , at times they don't understand the importance of the air tight barrier especially if the service gap is small

50mm pir external ??

Thin STS insulated tile backer board , covered in EWI Mosaic thin coat render in black so no staining .

Roll of the dice mate , I find some don't check or spec, others are by the book

Whatever I've hung them that's what the BCO has requested yes , open towards main route of escape. Then you have the intumescent strip, handles,hinges etc if they are really fussy , and at times request a closer

Fire doors are predominately hung in the direction of escape

Mcalpine do a self sealing Tundish ?

A very slim chance you will find spares or the same drawers. You will probably be better just finding a drawer box with runners what fits your unit opening, then fix your original drawer fronts onto that.

I have calculated this myself but want to get it checked so it can used

Thank you I certainly will , I will get the calculations/design confirmation back Monday/Tuesday. 20 years ago at university when studying the institute of wood science and technology course, I went on to do a short 18 month sister course, structural design in timber ( yes very basic but gave me some insight ) . I have done the loading calculations with snow etc and hands up used some previous designs what I have made on site from structural drawings with similar spans Very interested to see how mine compares with a structural engineers when he returns it next weeks . Still lots to learn with so many variables as you say combining timber and steel

I found with an extension they are ok as don't catch your eye, if you are toothing they will stick out like a sore thumb. Good thing with the ibstock is very little waste , last time I used LBC around half were unusable

Correct. If the right people are hired in the first place the tolerances should be all the same making everything straight forward

Yes it's always nice to have them all similar, quicker to work on also

Yes they can be packed , I put an extra timber in if more than say 30mm has to packed , sides and top . As for the width they will just have to be altered on site by whoever fits them ready for plasterboard/wall finish

Yes thank you very much for your feedback. I am going to construct it myself as I have made a fair few flitch beams in the past from SE drawings, but many years ago I have forwarded all the relevant information and drawings to an SE who regularly designs flitch beams so will await his calculations/alterations I need to make , i will be interesting to see how far out I am from the initial drawings. The 190 I use in the drawing is just purely because a stock item in c24 at my merchants , I did think about using thicker section either side with a steel in the middle

I will make some enquiries, never really had much to do with steel

Did cross my mind , plus they would do the calcs for me

Yes I can make that work