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That's sorted then . Personally I would try and blend it in with your neighbours, a better job long term

As you say a bonding gutter can be used. Or speak to your neighbour and take a couple of rows of slate off their roof , felt abd batten it overlapping into the original roof and tie it all in properly. Just be aware the corrugated sheets could possibly be asbestos. A simple sample test will confirm this either way for about £30/35

No problem, they may well have security clips on the outside depending on the age of the windows , some deduct a few mm overall to allow a slight tolerance for this . Personally I have never had an issue.

If measuring from the inside on external beaded upvc windows , you need to add 15mm either side / top and bottom for the correct measurement: ie 30mm overall on the width and height of the DG unit off the internal bead, that's measuring off the plastic, not from the rubber gasket. Doing this will give you the same measurement if you were measuring from outside and taking 5mm off either side , so 10mm overall Ordering formula = Width,Height, Thickness, clear or obscure glass , then if toughened is required or just float .

STS, never had a problem on TF properties

Marsh industries, they will answer any questions and supply

A 32mm core drill would give you the neatest outcome

As above , just purchase the internal filling link with your boiler

The builder sounds a joke , just laying them with a colour match that far out is highlighting his poor quality and certainly his integrity.

I would hazard a guess, where the paving has been stored, something has been spilt on them , it seems a little to sporadic for a whacker etc to leak like that looking at your pics

The supplier will wipe their hands of any issues if your contractors go back to them with this, they clearly state in their correspondence and its common knowledge always complete an area in the same batch

It is , and bricks , wall tiles , roof tiles, anything manufactured in batches , even same colour paints I mix together as they will always differ. Just a incompetent block layer or just don't care and just thinks about 💴💴💴💴

As said above, Personally I have found plasmor block paving very under par in the past especially in 50mm, I always use 60 but not plasmor Your block layer is either partially sighted or just don't care about the finish because he hasn't mixed the packs, even if he had with the colour differences it will still show Rip it up and use formpave/forterra for a far superior block and will last a lifetime

Depending on how many windows and if internally beaded , you could just have new units made up with privacy glass is an option

Personally I think it makes a better and easier job with noggins around the perimeter

I just read your other post , sorry see it is trusses now rather than a cut roof . They All look good from the photos so can't see why doubling up would make any difference as been designed for the load

Good chance a cut roof , have a look in the loft and see what you can see if any rafter have pulled away from the ridge etc

Dig out around the 110mm pipe, fit a branch and come across to fit a proper gully , then take your waste into that

Impossible to tell from those pictures and description. Get a professional to advice you after looking at all the variables once a site visit has been done

The linings should have been extended before the plasterboard/skim was carried out . A flush trim bit would do what you are looking for but not the correct way of doing it

This happens a lot when walls are over boarded with the original linings left in place . Depending on the amount of linings you need to do, you would be better reducing the size to the correct depth before fixing , or find some timber what is very close . You will need a couple of mm over the finished plaster anyway. Door stop is used fairly regularly for this due the the thickness, or get a local merchant/friend/joinery shop to run it through their planner thicknesser. You will get a more accurate and better quality finish by fitting a regulerised section than trying to trim it when fitted, as you will get deviations which will then show when the architrave is fixed

Excellent news 👌. Keep that test result as you well may be asked to prove that's the case on disposal, it still may have to go in the asbestos skip at your local tip

Looking at what they are holding back, blocks on the flat amd some drainage holes would of been better

Some back to wall toilets are rear entry connection only , and not from the side . You may have to build a small stud wall section to bring it all out to make that particular toilet work with a standard 90 pan connector behind in the boxing section

Colour match aside , the work looks poor from the photos