Mr Punter

I have had Accoya replacement windows made for a house in a Conservation Area. Apparently very durable but time will tell. Painted finish. I have used Guttercrest for ali gutters, copings and fascias. Nice quality. If you are cladding the fascia with ali, they only need to be treated s/w.

From your description I cannot work out how much of the upper floor has insulation at sloping rafter level and how much is at ceiling joist level. The ceiling joist insulation is simple with extra loft roll. You may need to use loft legs if your are storing crap stuff up there. If you can insulate the sloping parts, so much the better. BC may take a fairly pragmatic approach, especially if you would need to trash ceilings etc.

With timber frame the airtight layer is often on the outside of the osb sheathing. There may also be a layer of polythene vcl just behind the plasterboard. The cold air normally gets in via service holes not properly sealed. This is often extract holes, boiler flues, condense and other pipes. If you can get to these with a can of foam it may help. With the sockets you could use some of the child safety plugs.

You need to submit your building regs drawings to your chosen building control company. They will check the plans and request any amendments.

I like the projecting window reveal at the back. I will be interested to see the completed elevation. Paving looks a tad uneven!

If you can, transfer the survey markings to just outside the building footprint so you can easily run a string line down the centre of the trenches and re-mark.

Email and WhatsApp seem popular. I prefer email as it is much easier to sort, forward etc. WhatsApp good for sending site photos. The desktop version is useful too. I don't think you will find your ideal system. Try to resist frequent contacts as they can get ignored if it is several times a day. Can you do a meeting / phone call maybe twice a week and send a note of what was discussed / agreed?

They can often be at 4m centres.

Is it piling mats - concrete blinding to stabilise a piling rig?

Choose one and use it all over. Far easier and quicker.

Put the hob on an outside wall run and duct straight through the wall. I have an externally mounted extract so I can get lots of extraction of cooking smells and smoke with very little noise. It is what nearly all commercial kitchens have. Not so important if all you do is steam a few veg and order in takeaways.

I don't think crack stitching will work with random stone. It needs horizontal mortar beds. You are braver than me to even look at this property.

Rip out all the mouldy plasterboard and timber. You will need to move the wardrobes to get this done. Can you claim on insurance?

If there is space, a lorry mounted boom pump is a real time saver. Hire a rotating laser level. You will still need a mate to help. The pumps make a fair mess when they clean out. You can end up with a fair amount of concrete and washout, so plan somewhere for it to go.

Make sure your access is OK for the truck. Could be 3 x 8m3 loads. 32 tonne each. Hopefully the lorry can back up near the trench, maybe either end. Ideally you want trench inspection 1st thing, then concrete early. It can be annoying hanging around then having to work late because you are not a priority customer.

We had some old railway track on a site. Very difficult to cut with a petrol disc cutter.

If you have got the next stages planned in, with contractors lined up, and building regs / warranty people giving the OK to your proposals, you could go ahead. It is not monsoon. It has rained in this country before. You are not made of sugar.

Yes you can tile these. I am not sure why they would need to "breathe".

Normally you will leave the battens short of the window opening so the air can flow round. Like this:

Tee off the below ground. Come up to near finish level and use a 110 to 40mm reducer for your sink waste.

Have you looked at loft legs? They could raise the height to give you more space for ducting, cables and insulation. It will reduce height though. I am not sure why you are proposing membrane.

A plate like the one holding the hinge, so it has more than one fixing and they are spread out.

If this is just surface water you can pretty much do as you please.

This is why it is important to identify the wires with the correct colour sleeving.

The south facing units are the ones that die quickest.