Mr Punter

The top bit of flashing will hook over the timber and can be fixed underneath as far back as possible. The lower piece wraps around the lower fascia. You should be able to get this all fabricated off site. God knows how to deal with the corners and abutments. I suggest you get your architect to fit it!

Well @Tony L that does look a right mess. Also, it looks very wet and the ground level v floor level is worrying, as is the lack of sub floor ventilation. I would ask building control to visit and see what they have to say.

That is a bottle gulley and has a water trap to stop smells escaping. The grid will stop most leaves. You can fit an interceptor on the downpipe to catch leaves if they become a problem. You would normally be the gulley onto concrete for support.

True but compared to an unattended fire the damage would be far less. I imagine if the fire brigade attended and the fire was extinguished they would turn off the sprinkler supply.

You will need to post the full wording of the clause.

Really not as much water as there would be if the fire service used their hoses, which is where the other 99% of houses are.

I am not a fan of iMist with pumps, tanks, electrical components, annual servicing and high purchase price. I have a normal sprinkler system running from the mains. I don't have it serviced so there are no ongoing costs.

The original scheme retained the existing access. The proposed scheme creates a new access and that has been assessed. Quite why they want 45m visibility splays on a single track dead-end road is beyond me. I would not just ignore it in case the neighbour tries to stitch you up. The LA could then serve a breach of condition notice and all the associated mess. At least you have the existing consent as a fallback.

Your plumbing skills may have advanced at the expense of your keyboard skills.

Just be careful that there is no outside air circulating behind the boards.

Yes, dig it out and reroute it. If it is feeding into that y branch it will be shallow.

Yes but they try to make it so what you propose is buildable.

Well done you!

Leave the stuff that is well bonded. The skim will be able to bridge the 2 substrates.

Just dig out the soft soil - maybe 100mm - backfill with type 1, rake level, go over with plate vibrator, top up, vibrate again. You could use a bit of terram type fabric before your type 1 if it looks like the MOT will sink into the sub soil.

A 4" wall vent would do it. Have it adjustable. Without heat recovery there is always a balance between heating cost and ventilation.

2.0m. It may be OK at the top but worth checking the trimmer height at the bottom.

On a new build they drill the holes inside before plastering / boarding takes place.

The VCL would normally be on the warm side of the rafters and insulation. If the insulation is above the rafters you should be able to fit some rockwool between them without issues. You could also fit resilient bar before you plasterboard.

The woolbatts could be dritherm 32 which are mineral wool and get installed by the bricklayer. They are soft so easier to get right than rigid insulation so fairly idiot resistant. Pumped beads are EPS beads that get injected after the shell is complete. Makes the bricklaying more idiot proof. Both the above are best with a 150mm plus cavity.

+1 with pressure treated close board panels it looks a decent spec.

MVHR but it can be tricky to install.

The only downside will be screwing through any pipes or wires or possibly disturbing an asbestos ceiling above.

Mass market range I think.

DIY Kitchens have Blum drawer boxes and hinges. https://www.diy-kitchens.com/about-diy-kitchens/our-partners/#blum