Mr Punter

No, this will not work. The drip from the roof should be in the centre of the gutter. Often you need to put a timber like 4 x 2 on the outside before fitting the metal trim and membrane, but that didn't happen so you will need to get rid of the plastic fascia and fit a timber one further back. As the others have said, the insulation as it is will be a recipe for condensation and this will be more so if you use this for anything other than storage.

Just do it with 130mm and cut it carefully round the sleeper wall plates. It can rest on them. Foam and a layer of polythene as a vapour barrier. The sticky foil does not work well with the dust from cutting.

A course of Marmox or at least Thermolite blocks under the inner leaf will help a bit.

The difference between Robin Clevett's version and what typically gets done on site is vast. The solution needs to be much simpler to allow widespread adoption. The average site worker is not going to cut insulation with a Festool to a precise compound angle. Just not achievable or affordable.

Unfortunately some trades just do their standard thing and will not deviate from it, no matter what is in the spec. Get a quote for putting it right, send it to him and if he still refuses to do it, get it done elsewhere and deduct the cost from his final account.

What is wrong with what he has done? Is it functionally what you needed? Does it look OK? As it stands, would you spend your own money to put it right, or is it just a bit annoying?

This currently states "- 25mm PIR - continuous outside of frame" twice. Is this an error?

A lot of loft conversions do not have Building Regs as they do not comply. They are sometimes described as a hobby room or storage. You would probably need to undertake some work it you want it to be fully compliant. Lenders will often overlook this. I had no issues obtaining a loan on 8 flats with no planning consent or building regs.

You need a fascia to fix the gutter to and a soffit to cover the gap at the bottom. You probably need to get rid of the white pvc fascia and see what you can fix to. The room will only be good for storage.

Why not use a row of 40mm coursing blocks / slips every 2 courses of blocks and fill the cavity with eps beads? 6 course of bricks outer, 2 course of blocks and 1 brick slip inner. Brickie will make it work.

Am I right to summarise that you wanted a £15k discount, your builder, who did a very good job and is honest and diligent, disagreed, so you have dropped the matter?

What is the make and model of the system? I have not heard of a MVHR that anything to do with water heating. Is there a single unit for the whole house?

Get it emptied and give it a jetwash.

The door will have to open into the room. It can't open onto the landing. You could trim the corner off. Pocket doors are tricky to fit and use. A floor plan may be useful.

Well the LA are relying on a dismissed appeal for a similar scheme, which does not help you. The front elevation looks good, the rear not so much. Did you look at adding a new storey?

The water is at least 750mm deep. Why does the proposed access location make any difference? I hope you are more careful with the foundations!

If there is a big concern regarding the mortar they will offer to rake out and repoint. There is no way they are going to demolish and rebuild. If you go to court, be prepared to spend many £1,000s. The house will not fall down.

The refusal reasons sound weak. You could win on appeal. If you do, you could consider demolish and rebuild, where you would save all the VAT and start with a nice empty plot. Why did you add the chimneys?

Yes, 100% need an extract. You could use a dmev type. The Greenwood CV2GIP seems popular on here. It can be set up for bathrooms or kitchens and has humidistat and timer fan boost.

I am just completing a project with an existing retaining wall. We created a 100mm wide drainage channel at the base, piped to outside via gravity. Wall was tanked with cavity drain membrane. We had a course of blue bricks and a course of Marmox, then timber frame.

Thanks very much for all the work you have put in to keep BuildHub running smoothly over the years. Ad and spam free is just so refreshing. Well done @TerryE!

Hi @Teresa1 could you post pictures of the finished project when it is completed?

I think it is. When is the connection due? It is normally one of the first things I would set up on a new site. Are you connected to foul drainage?

Could you change the backbox and use an architrave switch?

I don't know how that would help. I thought the gable restraints were mainly to prevent the gable wall collapsing in high winds by providing lateral restraint.