Patrick

Don't need to be local, can be anywhere, it s just calculations =putting numbers into a programme. You don't need local knowledge for that. Just saying.

I like my home like myself : stupid. No need for another invasion of my privacy.

Just started with a few testers. Have to take back all my previous statements and apologise to @Russell griffiths It would have been much easier ordering the pre welded cages as an unexperienced rebar tying labourer. The bending of the stirrups wasn't even that much trouble.(I did approx 40-50/hour) But tying is. But here we go, you learn. Just putting this out here for others in similar situation to maybe listen.

Liked it as well but is probably Impossible to get past building regs this side of the ocean.

How was that all done. Did you have a temporary floor to work on the 1st floor or did you lay the chipboard and removed it again in order to access to Insulate?

A really good point. This would stop a few people doing it.

Had this idea and wondering if anybody did this. To insulate the first floor from the top instead of struggling with overhead pushing rock wool between joists and then putting plasterboard on. The problem most of the times is that there is a ready installed subfloor (e. G. Tongue and groove chipwood boards) in place which is nailed/screwed and glued down long before any sound insulation is done inbetween floors. So it's not practical to go from the top. However The installation of insulation (maybe even loose, like cellulose) from the top, after the 1st fix electrics, plumbing.... Is done and plasterboard is installed to the ceilings, would be a lot less messy quicker and therefore maybe cheaper then fiddling rock wool or similar from the bottom. If you would put down large 2400x1200 plywood or osb sheets as a 1st floor subfloor without attaching them too much (just 3-6screws/board) in order to have a working platform while building. When all mvhr/electric/plumbing in the floor is done and it s sealed from the bottom with plasterboard, unscrew the boards, lift Row by row and stuff cellulose or loose eps (or whatever you fancy) down the void. Maybe even go a few mm higher then the Joists so by putting the osb/plywood back down you're compressing the insualtion a fair bit. Then attach the osb/plywood as usual with nails/screws and glue to the joists to finish the subfloor. A bit more work in laying the first floor boards, specially can see that as an issue if using the small chipwood t&g subfloor boards. But should be a lot quicker and easier to put insulation in. As always... Overcomplicating things. Or has anyone tried anything like this? Experience with it?

✌️ You're right. But that's not how the calculation goes. Cause I calculate the full package what the final cages cost me vs. Buying them ready made or at least stirrups plus rebar. The full package is 1500£, the stirrups+rebar is approx 1200£, my rebar so far is 200£all in and I need another day or two to bend the stirrups. I know we never gonna agree on this one ✌️ Not to worry. I just wanted to mention that there is another method than buying rebar ready made. All versions work afaic

@Conor I'm doing this atm. Everyone thinks your mad when you do things yourself. Just a bunch of rich kids IMHO. It all depends how cheap you get the rebar =if you buy this for full steel stockholders price, they might even include bending as theres a fat healthy profit included in the price. I buy my rebar from scrapyard. Makes a massive difference but they obviously won't bend it for you. I m happy to take a day or two bending and wiring rebar for the sake of 1000£+x. A few here might disagree as they're on architects wages and rather work an hour to earn that kind of money than do some actual work ?

@BotusBuild AND experience ? I'm currently doing it for my house. I am taking the measuring advice on board.

word!

Got a point there. Question really is, what do you want from your house? If it's longlivety then this would be the best choice : Not very comfortable. A nightmare in heating costs. But will last 1000++years. Insulation in general is a bad idea. From a lifespan perspective. But I still wouldn't want to life in a house without it. As my favorite Building Scientist Joe Lstiburek said : every bit of engineering you put into a Building will compromise it s lifespan. (careful. Generalisation)

Stupid question, but would something like this be allowed : Or not compliant with Building Regs?

Or you go half-half. Let a company produce pre made frame sections and slot them together yourself. Finish off yourself... This way you not building the whole thing as a stick build but got a frame up pretty instantly which then just needs insulation and the rest. Might be suitable to your situation.

@Tennentslager This immediately cought my attention : Where did you get all the helping hands from. Asking for a friend. ?

@Mr Punter What's the advantage over cement mortar? I'm comfortable mixing that but never used lime.

OK. Understand. Only that the reclaimed red bricks from the old house got none either So you would say in both of them, mortar don't stick too well?

I have a pile of paving bricks and wondered if they could be used for a Garden wall. Would make it double skin with the inner wall being paving bricks and the outer (outside facing) wall being reclaimed victorian red brick. I have them around from dismantling the old building but not enough to do the entire wall with them. Any disadvantages using pavings bricks? any problems?

Put a quick summary together of what you want and put it on upwork.com. Gives you an idea. I used one lady from there and am very happy with her.

@Big Jimbo dont worry, I have dumb questions by the ton, I just spread them out across different forums and friends and family, so it gets picked up less. It s been written elsewhere , but yes, apparently cable ties are just as good as wire. Options to make cages are (to my knowledge_) -Wire -Dot Welding -Cable ties With these 3 options, wires are probably the cheapest and quickest . Dont think you can get cable ties cheaper than a few 100m of wire and pliers. And fiddling the cable ties together not going to be quicker than wires either. Many people also buy the pre made cages from Steel Stockholders . Probably cheaper that way if you ordering rebar anyways and take the time into consideration. Someone needs to tie the bars together (i get my rebar cheaper than any stockholders would be able to- so even with the exta work, still worth it_ )

As some of them are "out" by a few cm, i probably will stick to @Russell griffiths advice and widen the RC beam to 500mm . He suggested that 400mm might be a bit tight to get it all straight and you def. don t want the first course of Blocks laid and realise that it s getting very close to the RC beam corners or even sticking out by a few mm. 500mm would give just that bit of extra space to work the Block plinths wall . Now with some of the piles out of the centre line by 5-10cm , the 500mm Rc beam will make sure that all of them sit comfortably within the Ring Beam. At least thats the theory . We will see - next is tying the cages I ordered this : and a few boxes of this: so should be

Finished the piles this week. Just need to cut them level now ones we have the ring beam forms in place. Then fill the lot with concrete and piles and ringbeam s done. http://tintabernacle.blogspot.com/2019/12/piling.html?m=1

@Russell griffiths had a brilliant link there for a wall lift. Can order that from Australia or US. Maybe he can dig out the link for you. Found it : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Floor-Deck-Lifting-Jack-Raise-Wall-Beam-Construction-Heavy-Duty-Tool-1000lb-Load-/232904288941?nav=SEARCH Even though I seen it for less than 150$ before.

Nothing wrong with that idea. I m stick building on site. Should be cheaper then any other method if you got some skills as well.

Same same. Had around 9-10tonnes of metal, its approx 90-120£/t depending on where you go. Don't leave it to the scrap guys if you're hands on anyways, pays a few weeks of petrol, lunches and little extras so def. A bonus.