Patrick

Thanks. This than only leaves me with the question how to attach it to the I-Beam wall in a similar fashion than @PeterStarck done it . His method seems to be excellent, even though i would like to do the same while still using Blown in Cellulose . So need to put a Foil behind the ledger plate. Tricky .

Could not find these details anywhere so far. Very often the Stick Build Constructions are traditional Framing techniques, where the first floor Joist sit on top of the Groundfloor studs and so on... For a Portal Frame construction, people seem to use prefab timber frame companies.So the company will sort out these details. I wanted to see if someone has experience in this or how you would do it/ are doing it. I was wondering what would be the best way to attach the first floor Joists to the outside Walls in a Portal Frame, while keeping the Airbarrier flowing without interruption. I hijacked one of your picture @PeterStarck to demonstrate what I mean Here are the first floor joists, attached to the outer frame without any airbarrier (as far a i can see) . This means, as far as I understand, that you later have to work/tape around each Joist for airtightness. I have Found one solution that made sense to me, but I am not sure if that works well : Studs are carved in on the level of the floor (potential problem with the I-Joists) than timber studs are inserted as a backing board before the Airtight Membrane OSB (in this example just plain OSB) is Nailed on to the front . Than joist hangers are Nailed into the timber studs(through the OSB) And the Floor Joists go into the Joist hangers. Later on the Osb in the Groundfloor and the OSB in the top floor can be taped to the osb section "behind" the floorjoists/ Seems like a method of eliminating some problems(cold bridging, airtightness) It than looks a bit like this: Hope this all makes sense. I m much better with visualising things with plans/photos so if anybody got some sections or drawings of a similar setup that works, I would be very greatful . All Ideas are welcome.

And probably the same compactor just with a different label on it (Screwfix Housebrand vs. Aldi Housebrand)

Obviously he was climbing up ?

Yep, but at least he s wearing a helmet. So it s 50% secure ?

?. Just watch the full length if you want to be entertained by Dewpoint calculations . Here s the summary": DEWPOINT CALCULATION.mp4

Egger dhf is insulation board? Or not.

Yep. You're right in regard to the timber frame company. Exactly my experience. So I'm doing the same than you. But I guess you copied their setup. Or what's your reason for outside insulation?

@Simplysimon Sounds good. My internal insulation is only because there is empty space anyways. Might as well insulate the service cavity I thought. Just pushing down a few cheap rock wool pieces myself. Main insulation will be the 360mm. I wanted to do 350like you, but most ibeam companies only provide 360mm. Apart from 2, so wanted to have more choice getting quotes. I guess you are going with a certain timber frame company that likes to use the egger dhf outside ?? Any idea what bonus the outside insulation will give?

I know its an old post , but just as i skipped through https://www.dmlights.com/electrical-supplies/switchgear-and-plugs and was wondering how it works with rules of wiring . Can you just use European light switches in the UK or is there a difference in Buidling Regs preventing you from using EU Light Switches (for example German ).

@Ed Davies Now thats a really usefull read. Thanks a lot.

@Russell griffiths that might be right. I-Joist is more expensive for sure.As of price, I was more thinking about the extra work involved switching between systems (like insulating I-Joists between and than putting a different/separate insualtion on the outside ) . I might as well be wrong with this.Generally I can say that the Structural Timber for the House seems to be the least expensive of the overall costs . And seems to me so far that you can safe a great deal by carefully looking for cheaper suppliers. Saying that, you still are right with something like the MBC twin stud . Material wise a lot cheaper. I think price might get closer once constructed due to labour cost. Would you be happy to share what you paid for your I-Joists? Either here or PM .

To both a yes, I hope .

Yep. Pictures Please. I am always struggling to understand without visuals . Would be helpful if someone has this explanation as a sketch or even section.

Maybe this post is in the wrong section, but I am trying to figure out if this works just fine or if it is going to give me problems: I am trying to build it in that way, because it is to my limited knowledge, fairly cheap, compared to staggering different insulation Materials and Insulating the Outside of the Building. Most of you on here who worked with Timber I-Beam construction opted for a thinner wall and to insulate on the outside . Which is great, just an extra step of work, but thats just my opinion. My main worry on this setup is condensation. Because the outer layer of OSB, even when left untaped is not very Vapour permeable : So following this logic, there could be a problem with condensation on the backside(looking from inside - outside) of the OSB sheets, as there is always going to be inperfections in the inner Airtight layer and Moisture going to get into the Insualtion . Am I overcomplicating this or is that something that needs to be addressed?

@Mr Punter How happy are you with the result . Any cracks or similar? read that somewhere . If you still have Plans from the Floor system- specially the wall/floor connections , please PM me . I will Put in either Beamshield/Tetris/Jetfloor but not decided yet which one.

Just in Case anybody is interested , here is a catalogue. I will be ordering around summer, so could share a lorry. ? BT-Katalog-2018-EN inch revised.pdf

Hi. Not quite French. But I'm buying my roof in Poland . They actually got price lists on their metal roofs. Just as an example, standing seam in a superior quality than the Urban colourcoat stuff is approx. 11-13£/SQM. And a massive choice.Since nearly all new roofs are metal over the east side. If you're interested I can send some over and give a hand with translating the catalogue. Advantage is that every one in the building supply business over there speaks fluent English and even most catalogues come in English. As of warranty /quality. It'sbEU, so not a problem.

NOW this is what I call usefull Inforamtion ! Thanks .

Thanks for the tip, thats exactly what I wanted . Quite a few of you probably done something similar and/or better so would like to use your data . Would you share that?

I always wanted a complete Price list of different Insulation Materials based on SQM prices. I did not find anything other than general remarks like "Glasswool is cheapest" "Kingspan(or similar) is (more) expensive than EPS insulation , but has/gives greater U value (even though this levels itself out after a few years apparently) So I tried to start on a table, but it is difficult to compare it all . It does not start with installation costs comparison - like which material is easiest to install (sqm/hour) . If anybody has anything similar to add, please send it to me. Prices are always a bit difficult (how long is a string>), but i'm still trying to figure it out .INSULATION MATERIAL VALUE:MONEY.pdf

Go to Aldi online, https://www.aldi.co.uk/c/specialbuys/specialbuys categories. They selling all the leftovers from their promotions when only a few items are left in the warehouse and its not worth it sending them out to the stores. Some amazing stuff with up to 90% discount hiding there. We bought around a years supply of the non cereal dog food which was reduced from 2.99/pack to 0.99/pack.

Yep. It s hilarious. ????

I just keep repeating what people before me said :Forget about the architect. Waste of time and money. Unless you are designing something extraordinary, (and by extraordinary I don't mean a bit better insulated house, but something like the Sydney opera) it can be done by either yourself or an architectural technician. all of this was mentioned by others before. One thing that really helped me was a clever guy telling me :planning permission is a look on the house from the outside (design based, more about the look/appearance then any technical aspects). Building control is the look from the inside out (technical based, very much about the details of how to build it and make it work). so an architect is looking at the planning stage more as a design project. While a lot of the self builders, specially the ones with not so deep pockets, just want a decent looking house that WORKS. not a Sydney opera. so draw yourself some ideas up. Get used to some 3d softwares (mentioned in other posts on here, like revit, sketchup) and once you had all the replies on the forum here you probably more or less already ready to just submit it yourself without any architectural technicians or spending money at all.

Yes, thats true, I was misreading the whole conversation as "U-Value is 0.44" and thought AMAZING. Then it s only a question about wether I can use Flatroof skylights or not.