jack

We either hung a door backwards or put the switch on the wrong side in the utility room - can't remember which. Net result is that you need to reach behind the door to switch the light on and off. I'll retrofit something eventually, but it isn't a priority at the moment. We have recessed skirting boards that are (or should be) flush with the wall above. In some places, skirting boards are slightly too recessed. Oh, and the height of the gap between them varies throughout the house. Little thing, but it's something I notice all the time. We didn't find the time to screw all the boards down upstairs, and now we have places in our bedroom that creak. Drives. Me. Nuts. We decided for some reason not to include external blinds on our large bedroom window, despite the fact it faces east. I think we were just desperate to save money at that point. Why did we choose to lose those blinds rather than the ones facing the same direction in the kitchen? Literally no idea. We do have the wiring and a recess, so we can retrofit, but it will be more expensive and a bit of a pain in the arse than if we'd just done it properly the first time. I could go on for several pages more...

Knowing what I know now, I'm horrified by the quality of the scaffolding that we and the trades we had onsite were clambering over.

Welcome to BuildHub.

Interesting mix of gear, thanks for sharing. I'm familiar with this from the Loxone group I'm on. It's very highly rated with that firmware.

Of course he understood that you were talking about overheating. That is, however, a different point to moisture interfering with curing, which is the one you were making. Goalposts moved.

Nice attempt at moving the goalposts.

But we're talking about roofing here, surely? I GRPed our balcony floors and it was repeatedly hounded into me on every Youtube video I watched and article I read that everything needs to be kept bone dry to avoid curing problems. Nothing was mentioned about osmosis.

Ours is in a cupboard in our pantry. You can't hear it unless it's on boost (which is rare - we tend to leave it on the background setting). I don't know how loud the Vent-Axia is though.

Interesting. The thermometer seems to have stabilised at 22.9°C. Downstairs is therefore only 2.6°C cooler than upstairs, but subjectively it feels like an awful lot more. I suspect this is partly because the radiant heat off the walls and ceilings upstairs make it feel subjectively hotter, whereas the cold concrete floors make it feel subjectively cool downstairs. In any event, I'm about to walk half a mile to the pub. Shouldn't be any problem working up a thirst!

From memory some of the efficiency loss at lower (non-freezing) temps can be made up by increased energy from condensation in damp weather.

I think that with ASHPs, there are some non-intuitive things about the way they operate that makes this sort of error easy to propagate. It seems obvious that they'd struggle waaaay more to heat water when it's cold (to us!) outside compared to when it's warm.

Don't attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by ignorance. They may well believe what they said!

36°C outside 25.5°C upstairs (interestingly, this is very slightly cooler than it was yesterday) Not sure about downstairs, as I don't have a working thermometer here (just brought the upstairs one downstairs and am letting it stabilise). It's a lot cooler than upstairs - I guess it's around 21-22°C, but feels cooler because I have my bare feet on the concrete floor. I'd be curious to know the floor temperature - must get my 1-wire system working again! When the kids come in from being out in warm weather, they walk in the front door and lie on the concrete in the hall to cool down.

The relationship with the FiT rings a bell.

You're probably right. I wonder whether that's changed at some point or it's just my memory failing!

Agreed. I seem to recall that the limit was measured based on the panel capacity rather than the inverter output, but I might be misremembering, or the rules might have changed.

Exactly this. Also, if you aren't being metered (and most aren't), you're paid on nominal usage anyway. You're paid the same no matter what your actual usage.

Love it! The angles make all the difference imo.

Blimmin' flip

No. I had grand plans to do so, particularly around the TV room and between bathrooms. But in the end, the plasterboarding suddenly happened sooner than I'd planned for, so I didn't end up using any additional sound-proofing techniques (other than double-boarding all internal walls). I'm generally not that happy with the inter-room soundproofing. It's something I'd definitely pay more attention to if I were doing it all again.

Dave, I might be misremembering or confusing the situation with someone else, but did you have an issue with the bottom edge of the render somewhere on your build?

Not a moment too soon to have installed an aircon unit. 35°C here tomorrow!

Couldn't agree more with this. When it's cold you can turn up the heating and put on a jumper. When it's hot, other than a fan, there's little you can do to cool down short of some sort of active cooling. For me, it's exacerbated by working from home. I know from experience that my productivity drops precipitously when it gets hot.

Doesn't say so at the link, but it could well be. I looked into using that but didn't in the end. I'm glad, because the rest of the detailing by the plasterboard contractor was so crap that the green stuff wouldn't have made a dB of difference to the sound-proofing within the house.