nod

If it is for acoustic 25-50 is enough to stop the sound bouncing around

Unlikely to be a problem You could ask him to slip a dpc behind the post If it only just gone in This could be done

It’s always in the bill of quantities I can see the logic of not fixing timber directly to the floor I think with metal its just one of those things they like to see

Yep Under the MF also One of my pet hates constantly telling people to dpc under studs on solid floors We have to take them up if they are missed

Always put dpc under studs when they are directly on to concrete Don’t ask me why We put metal studs down on office blocks and BC always want to see 25 either side

I did But it was already on the materials submission Yep should have checked every single word I spotter the cranked steel that would have Protruded into my kitchen and that when I added up the dpc to ridge measure It was 300 mil out Just wonder what I’m paying for

I’ve used 4x2 between bedrooms due to the Iddiot Architect specifying Timber and 25 mil ply for wind bracing It took me twice as long as mf and em will give me more work when I’m tiling

This is why MF has become so popular

If the home is going to be your main residence and you don’t sell with in three years of completion cert You will be fine Speaking our cil administrator They are busy chasing developers with multiple properties that are trying to get round paying there cils

The scale of the original submission in comparison to your neighbors is often incorrect As long as the dimensions of what’s built are the same as the drawings Your fine Our neighbor pointed out that the house is much further back than the planning permission drawing But there is a measurement from the curb to the West corner of the house Which set out from He stated that the drawing shows the two houses inline

Yes normally screw it to the flat of the track Then shot fire it to the beam That way it prevents the track being fixed directly to the beam

It’s so small that I wouldn’t worry Fix a strip of PB to the track and fix through it It will never become load baring whilst it’s sat on the bw

All the quotes we have had have been Ecodan For what it’s worth our neighbors have had a Samsung unit since 2008 With any issues

I’ve taken lots of supporting walls down in my time Some with strong boys others with needles Whilst Strong boys are more convenient Needles are belt and braces I can see why your builder would prefer strong boys But I would use a couple of needles I suspect a SE would air on the side of caution also

Yes just spray some fire foam (Pink) Or even a blob of silicone It just cushions the clip

It’ was a pretty common problem when the clips where widely used Just foam up around the offending clips

The company that manufactured our frames Like most don’t do there own glass So wouldn’t imagine they would object to supplying frames only

All window frames nowadays are custom made Manufacturers now make everything to order Planners insisted on timber sash windows on our first build due to the neighbors being listed But allowed us to use wood grained UPVC

Majority seem to use fiberglass I used lead for the above reason Quite easy to get the lead nice and flat Not so easy with fiberglass I used floorboards fully nogged which allowed me to beat the lead round Barely any wet coming in once the building paper and lead was on

The problem you will have is to get the meter Connection you will have to register an address Which is likely to trigger council tax Weve held back this time and managed with two generators On our first build we received council tax bills before we had any stairs plaster on walls even running water

That’s a pain Transport is a real pain

Your probably better local A lot of the online suppliers add a chunk on for delivery

It’s the same difference I could have quite easily built it higher like your drawing Or taking over a third floor It’s not difficult with loose rafters

Whilst we have built solid rather than TF I installed two on the roof that I built All in timber