Mike

A good idea :) The best price I found was €85, carbon filter included, from https://www.econology.fr/zehnder-comfosystems-caisson-filtrant-isobox-dn-160-filtre-a-pollen.html, but there's not going to be as much competition in the UK market.

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If you're willing to forego the DIY & the 90° bend, you may be able to buy them. The Zehnder IsoBox, for example, is made from EPP, has a DN160 connection & can take a pre-filter, a carbon filter, or both. Or a DIY filter, I guess. Paul used to sell them in the UK. I guess that other manufactures may make similar for larger ducts.

My main suggestion would be to change the bathroom to avoid having the bath, shower or WC against the Bedroom2 partition - or to make it a double partition - to reduce noise transmission. I'd chose to have them both against the wall, leaving the island free.

If you have a screed on top, it's likely that that you have a beam and block floor. AFAIK, there isn't an approved method for insulating below them, not least because ventilation below is required to remove the risk of long-term rusting of the reinforcement. For any insulation you'd also need to be sure that you were in an area that was Radon-free and flood-free, then work out how to get the insulation tight against the underside of the floor throughout. would likely be your best option.

I have an HP Zbook, but there are quite a few on the market. USB-C power delivery becomes mandatory for all laptops sold in the EU from 28 April next year, so it may soon be difficult to buy any other type.

My latest laptop is powered via USB so, for added geekery, I bought a USB cable with an inbuilt power display It's currently fluctuating from 9W to 12W, though I've seen it top the 60W theoretical maximum when processing large amounts of data.

Take a look at the latest 'fake' (electric) woodburners. They now look very realistic, avoid room overheating, there are no issues with MVHR or air vents, and are less hassle all round. For example (the first one I came across):

See also this thread:

+1. I've put in the conduits for one on my latest. Here's mine, all on 2 layers of high-density plasterboard to make it easy to fix brackets anywhere: If you glue some metal to the back of the cover, they'll be easy to locate with a magnet too. A common problem. I prefer setting the centre of the TV at eye height when sitting.

It does look fashionable - I've seen similar styles in several 'boutique' hotels over the past few years. Which probably means there's a new trend coming around the corner soon...

I'm not keen on either, but maybe that's because - in older homes - they've often been used to hide something. Maybe (if you have the budget) you could divert her towards decorative plaster finishes - Venetian / polished plaster / microcement / tadelakt?

I've build in single skin Flemish bond (using snapped headers) to match an extension to the existing, but on a modern looking new build stretcher bond would be normal.

They're referring to different circumstances. In particular A.8 is referring to the case when the ventilation pipe is separate from the soil pipe (the old way of doing it, before combined SVPs took over). As for a solution, I agree with the others above - vent at the STP, or via a convenient nearly garage / outbuilding.

After playing with glazing simulators, this spec provides the best sound resistance within a standard frame: 4mm standard laminated / 16mm cavity / 6mm acoustic laminated. See my post at https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/32665-further-sound-insulation-through-bookcases/#findComment-480975 for more. In my case they're fitted in oak frames & perform very well. If I had trickle vents, they would be a key weak point; see @JohnMo's suggestion above (though I'd want more information backing up the sound reduction they're claiming). Getting airtight seals on a vertical sliding sash would be another priority and maybe a challenge (I've not tried).

Either way is fine - there just needs to be a minimum 100mm overlap. And, in your sketch, it's the 'lower' DMP that's acting as the DPM; the polythene over the top of the insulation is a slip membrane to maintain separation between the insulation and the screed.

Yes, that's essentially the reason most modern machines are cold only; they use so little water that the hot water often won't reach the machine - it will just cool down in the pipe, so it's more energy efficient to use cold.

Ask him why he thinks that ASHPs make up over >90% of heat pump installations in Norway. https://openresearch.surrey.ac.uk/esploro/outputs/journalArticle/Current-status-of-heat-pumps-in/99822136002346

There was (notching the timbers so that the hangers are flush) but, from where you are now, counter-battening is your best option.

Filling in to one side would also spoil the symmetry of the roof, so I'd avoid it even if you could get permission. Leave it alone and enjoy the space as it is.

And I've a further thought too - what's been done at damp proof course level? There's a risk that it may have been damaged or become discontinuous - it need checking out.

The the copyright holder will be whoever - the company, or the person if there's no company - that created the drawings.

Agreed. You can't remove half of a sold brick wall and rebuild the removed half in new bricks as is currently being done; it's almost certainly not going be structurally safe. And, since you're not replacing like-for-like, you also need Building Regulations approval.

See also the previous discussion on this:

Yes, it probably is :)