pudding

No, the plywood was a former/shutter, open at the front i think, into which they stuffed the lime, then took the wood off and brushed it up to look ok. Ended up looking like this -

Same with my house, builders made a plywood former and filled with lime, so there's a nice squarish profile covering the foam.

Hi, Attached is a current sketch detail of my new extension slab/wall junction, with radon/dpm membranes. Had a meeting with builder/structural engineers last Friday. They, especially the builder, were keen to take the radon membrane back down the outside of the lightweight block and underneath the EPS/concrete block (think mainly as he thought it would be less fiddly and easier to do), and then wanted some kind of cavity tray detail with the DPM and were concerned about water getting in through the bottom of the Pavatherm. They mentioned maybe taking the current DPM back under the timber soleplate, and then maybe using another piece of plastic to form some kind of sloping out cavity tray. Like this:- Any suggestions or comments on either? Cheers.

Netatmo? I use it in my crash pad, only had to change the old wall thermostat, although it's with a combi boiler.

We've got this in oak - http://www.stonearth.co.uk/product/inspire/. Seems to be holding up well, had it for 5 years now. Only place where the finish is coming up a bit is the leg next to the bath where the kids splash it. But once they're a bit older, a little sand down and bit of oil, nobody will tell. Certainly no warping or anything like that though.

Google bending moments and second moments of area. Actually - here - https://www.google.com/search?q=bending+moment+second+moment+of+area&rlz=1C1GCEA_enGB795GB795&oq=bending+moment+second+moment+of+area&aqs=chrome..69i57.6962j0j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Anyone got any tips/guides/links for EPDM details for joints/rooflights/upstands?

Me too if possible? Any reason you can't just post it on here?

Take 2. Extnernal 130mm wall PIR replaced with 150mm graphite EPS, and the 25mm batten and p/b internally replaced with 25mm PIR backed p/b, overall u-value not changed much with this :- Fixings through the what is now EPS for the battens. Any reason not to simply go with these - https://www.toolstation.com/forgefast-multi-purpose-self-drilling-wood-screw/p87754 or https://www.screwfix.com/p/timbascrew-wafer-timber-screws-black-6-7-x-200mm-50-pack/8628J?kpid=8628J&ds_kid=92700048793290424&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6KrtBRDLARIsAKzvQIEdinQ4_1xBcuui2HFGk8z1_YomGEKJtZX9zmmuMFkzraEwVVs--pwaAv7NEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds - just 200mm screws? Its only single storey so the amount of weight from the cedar cladding wont be huge, so sag and loading on the fixings shouldnt be a problem. But how do you know?

Hi Russ, The PIR on the outside of the frame could be substituted for EPS which I believe is breathable?I understand your point and have read about it several times. However, with a suitable VCL internally, is it necessary? I think if 100mm of EPS was used externally, then i could go with 25mm of PIR internally on the frame to compensate for the lower thermal performance of the EPS c.f. PIR, so the breathability decreases as you move out though the frame too? A_L, an extra 12mm OSB could be used under the 150mm PIR roof sheets yes. I didnt think it would be necessary though, as the roof joists will likely be 75mm wide at 400mm centres (awaiting structural eng calcs), so only 325mm open space, which for 150mm PIR, shouldnt flex or move, esp once 22mm OSB is fixed on top. The 150mm air gap above plasterboard and then 150mm PIR on top is to create a warm roof and ensure more insulation is above the wooden joists. If it was full fill of 250mm with frametherm 32 and then less PIR on top, then the dew point is brought down into the roof joist level. Happy to be corrected, as it would be cheaper and easier with only 50 or 100mm PIR on top.

Hi, thicker OSB would be better how, for the fixings, or some other reason? Yes the gap between the 2 PIR sheets is filled by the vertical OSB sheet. It is a cold bridge, but my initial thinking was i needed a way to fix the 50x50 fascia battens some how. A better detail there i've just thought of is to stop that vertical OSB sheet at the top of roof joist level, so the horizontal PIR sheet can butt up against the vertical PIR sheet. Then for the fascia board fixing, the vertical 25x50 battens that the cedar cladding is fixed onto continues up to the top OSB sheet on the roof top, and then horizontal counter battens can be used, with the fascia fixed to those. Completely removed that little cold bridge, and those longer fixings for 50x50 arent needed, although just a few more long fixings for the 25x50 battens needed instead. Sweet, improvements already!

Hello, another little picture detail of my ongoing extension design. This time of the junction between the 140mm timber frame wall and flat roof. I've tried to wrap the whole lot in the PIR insulation and stopped the roof joists in the internal timber frame so as to minimise any cold bridging. Any comments or suggestions welcome

Ceiling all day long. The floor mounted ones are a backup designed to fire up to the ceiling and reflect back down to you if you cant use ceiling mounted speakers to get the genuine height effects. Stick a pair near the front and pair near the back. As long as you can get them in roughly the right locations it's fine, don't worry about the angles too specifically. In future when you get a new AVR, you'll probably get one with a room calibration tool, or at least try to, and that will sort out any room and placement issues (within reason!)

The whole idea for the box type gutter in between the old pitch roof and flat roof was to avoid the green roof taking all the pitched roof water, as the builder friend suggested it would be a good idea to keep it separate. Seeing as it produces a few potential issues using the box gutter, I could slope the flat roof away from the house or towards the gable end in the other direction, so that the water run off from the pitched roof does go onto the flat roof and away. Like this:- Then in order to avoid the green roof being waterlogged, use some of these :- https://www.sky-garden.co.uk/shop/drainage-products/rigid-drainage-per-roll.php Seems like that could potentially avoid the need for the box gutter between the 2 roofs and make everything a lot simpler.

For the VCL, the insulated plasterboard is foil backed. Enough? Or a proper VCL needed? The structural numbers can all be taken with pinch of salt, i've just made them up. So the 600mm joist spacing may become 400, and the top 12mm OSB may very well become 18mm, once i speak to a structural engineers next week and he actually calculates the loading. Any suggestions on a flat roof supplier? I hadn't thought of that at all and was simply thinking of forming the gutter shape ourselves and lining with the EPDM. The robust edge you mention, is that to ensure there is no movement whatsoever which may tear the EPDM? Thanks for the link to the lite substrate, will come in handy when working out loading and maybe trying to minimise the extra weight.

How about this new design, with new wall plate, now 200mm joists and then only 100 PIR on top, and then a larger box gutter:- I've found a nice u-value calculator online and its coming out with the following for that buildup:- IS that shown dew point being in the middle of the timber/frametherm section a concern? It seems to do the calc based on a 20deg inside/-10 outside.

Thanks for the reply. Yes my friend who runs the building company suggested the build notice route as he doesn't think there's anything too complicated about it. There's no rush and plenty of time to get drawings done if needed. We're not planning on starting until next April. I guess as long as we make sure BC are happy with anything we do beforehand, and I'll be sending them sketches of various details if required, hopefully any unexpected costs can be avoided. Foil back p/b would be a nice easy solution. Any issue with the board joints though? Or would it be enough to have them meet on the studs and then the joints will be deemed vapour proof enough?

Green is due to my other half being an ecologist and wanting wildflowers up there. Luckliy we currently get no debris in the gutters at all. Lived here for nearly 5 years and they almost spotless. Guess that'll change with a green wildflower roof next door though. LOL, at least it's invoked some reaction! No problem with changing the design to a larger flat bottom box gutter. Would you get a gutter of the shelf for that, or make up with OSB and EPDM as I've currently drawn? I'm meeting an engineer next Friday. He'll do all the calcs, The timbers I've currently drawn are just me guessing and the sketches show the main design principles I've got in my head. Connecting to the rafter tails would be the optimistic and cheap solution, but like you I don't think they'll be chunky enough to cope, and we'll end up sticking another wall plate on top of the stone wall. Thanks for the replies

So, concerning the following roof junction between the existing pitched slate roof and a new flat roof as sketched in the photo below:- I've come up with the following detail. It was advised to me that we should aim to keep the rain water runoff from the slate roof off the new flat green roof, so i've come with this detail to keep the pitched roof water separate in the gulley shown. Again, any questions or suggestions would be great

Realised I missed of the 12 or 18mm OSB sheet on the outside of the timber frame before the 130mm PIR in the above sketch. Does everything else look good apart from that omission? I've not put on there a VCL which could go between the p/b and timber frame if needed?

So a new slightly revised design is like this:- Met with a friend who has a structural timber framing & building company. Current plan is to carry the work out under a building notice. He's given me the contact details of a structural engineer friend who I'm meeting next week to talk about getting the designs/calcs done for the timber frame and slab etc. In prep for this I've come up with the following for an initial floor/wall design. Lots more little detail sketches to come for existing wall/roof junction, existing roof/new flat roof junction, roof skylight detail and also oak timber frame/new timber wall as below junctions. It's not the passive slab I've mentioned in the previous post but should give pretty good performance. Any questions or tips massively appreciated.

Hi all, So I'm finally getting around to starting to properly plan a new extension and have a friend who runs a oak/timber framing building company coming over later this week to chat. So our current house is like this, with the extension to the bottom right, SE:- And here is my current plan and pics using Live Home 3D. Current ideas and plans for the extension are to use an insulated raft foundation (Kore? had a quick look and downloaded their brochures )if possible for the best insulation and should hopefully be relatively quick and easy. I'm hoping this wouldn't be an issue partnered to the current house which has normal strip foundation, or the old stone barn on the left of the pics has nothing. It will have a flat green roof with 2 large triple glazed flat rooflights. All glazing will be triple glazed and have a large bi-fold in the larger room. We'd ideally like an internal structural timber frame on show, and then externally will be cedar clad to match the newer part of the current house. Would oak be sensible for the internal structural frame? I have concerns about the timber drying out and warping and cracks between the old house and new extension. There's not much external wall, but I'm proposing to have this as a timber frame with either PIR or EPS outside, then full fill with 100 or 140mm frametherm and perhaps internally insulated p/b, to try and target u<=0.15. Roof I'd like u<=0.12. Both of these would be better than the current house. Access to the new extension is through the kitchen sliding door. New rooms will be a larger dining room, and the smaller a study/spare bedroom. Any comments welcome

I'm hoping it can do well on our limestone which is very textured and a real pain in the ass to clean. Other half does a sponge mop every now and then, but its only when I get on my hands and knees and scrub it does it really get the dirt off properly. Hence it doesn't get done very often!

Bissell crosswave now £178 on amazon prime day. Just ordered one myself to see how it goes with my limestone & oak floor and dogs.

Whats wrong with the spiders going in there?