Rob99

This is mainly aimed at @Nickfromwales but thought it may be useful for others on here (always good to share ?) I'm going to replace my existing UFH pump set with an Ivar set, as recommended previously by @Nickfromwales but I'm only now getting round to sorting this out. The previous ebay link doesn't seem to work any longer so I wondered where it is that you source your Ivar sets from? Also, is the set with the Grundfos UBM3 the one to go for? It seems from looking around that its a new type of pump better suited to UFH manifolds. Appreciate any advice. Cheers Rob

Recommendations for a decent quality foam gun??

You should definitely take a look at Loxone. It'll cover pretty much all of your wishlist. I've sent you a seperate message.

Looking good Joth ??

There are regs on height of consumer unit MCBs/RCBOs which from memory I think is 1350-1450 from floor level. Providing your control cabinet is fed from RCBO's in the consumer unit then local RCBOs in your cabinet can be at any height.

Ah...... I presume the sensitivity of the sensor can't be adjusted enough

+1^ I've used some insulation tape to cover some portions of my sensors so they don't trigger. Magnetic reed switches would probably work and are also cheap. As they are cupboards, fitting them on the frames and inside surface of the day will at least mean they are out of sight when the doors are closed

That's an interesting approach as other people have also suggested flashing Teckin plugs with Tasmota. At the moment I don't have the time to do any major development so was looking for something relatively simple to set up and control with no additional complexity. Food for thought though.

When we did our extension and refurb and installed our Loxone system we weren’t able to do much with the existing power sockets so they are mainly still “dumb” sockets. I want to change that by using smart plugs controllable via Loxone but I need quite a lot for all the lamps, appliances I want to control and having a dozen or more of the Loxone Socket Air’s is both expensive and not especially discrete as they are quite bulky. I'm impressed with the shelly equipment generally but don't like their smart plug design. There seem to be a vast array of smart plugs on the market so thought I'd ask for recommendations. I do have a few requirements though to hopefully narrow the field: 1. Compact "squarish" design (would only consider round if they were very thin) 2. Preferably similar thickness to a standard plug 3. WiFi with IP control (not just an app, as will need to send http commands from Loxone system) 4. Can switch full 13A load Nice to have's would be: 5. If possible the range to include both dimmer and relay variants 6. Light to indicate status 7. Power monitoring (preferably data sent to Loxone) Cheers Rob

I've just installed a dg unit in a wooden window frame and sealed around the edges with some clear silicon. Although I masked up to avoid it getting everywhere, on one edge the silicon spread past the masking tape onto the glass. I cleaned off most of it at the time but there is still quite a bit of residue left, which obviously looks awful on a window. What's the best product to safely remove the silicon? I've heard that WD40 works and possibly IPA. My worry is that the glass is softcoat so I cant use anything abrasive.

Just ordered a few tubes of Soudal Silirub 2 in Anthracite Grey, so will see how that goes.

Which product do you use? There seem to be loads. Unfortunately there's no access to use any other fixings

Thanks Nick How long will it take to cure? It's just that I will need to clamp it as some of the flooring is a little "bouncy"

I have a gap (see sketch) between my flooring and an aluminium bifold door frame threshold which I am covering in with an aluminium angle trim which I have had powder coated to the same colour as the door frame. The length of the trim/threshold is about 4m. What is the best adhesive/sealant to use to permanently fix the trim to the door threshold?

We have Eclisse and very happy with it. Seemed pretty sturdy when the carpenter fitted it. The running track is a very substantial aluminium extrusion and doesn't deflect at all even with our heavy door. Runs very smooth too.

He's bullying you into paying more than he's entitled to. Trying to charge 5 days when he was on site for 4 is just taking the p@#?. Charging for the extra work is fine but if the "real" extra is 2 days as what he has completed so far would have normally been 2 days then 4 days is just not on, and downright dishonest IMO. For me, what's worse seems to be his attitude when you try and have a sensible discussion with him. If you want to keep him on because his work is good then you might have to bite your lip and accept the relationship is not off to a good start. I think you will need to sort it out with him so that he fully understands this is a one off and you won't accept him treating you like that again. If you decide it's not worth the aggro then get another brickie. Yes it may delay things and may be more costly as a result but you won't feel like you're being taken for a ride. We had a good relationship with our builder and if we weren't happy with anything we just had a conversation and it was all sorted. Yes, there were changes and extra costs but neither of us were counting pennies but took a swings and roundabouts approach to many items. Maybe we were lucky but, honestly, if he had taken the approach your brickie has in the first week, he'd have been gone. Life's too stressful as it is when you're building. Good luck

Probably looks about right, only concern might be hole positions but if you check before you open the screwfix packet then you can always return them.

Those are securistyle hinges, very common and available in lots of places. Google "securistyle" and you'll see loads.

Always happy to help

Thanks for the plug @joth always happy to help.?? Glad to see you're getting your head round everything, and that's a really neat bit of wiring work in the cabinet (oh I can supply those too!!) @Thorfun building and wiring up the main cabinet isn't that difficult as long as you take your time and think about component locations and wiring before you start. I mount cabinets on an angled jig to do all the wiring and its much easier than trying to do it when they're on the wall. Let me know if you need any pointers.

true, but I don't want a third lock on the door, even if it can be keyed the same all my other doors are multipoint so i wanted it to be the same, and only one key to remember!!

I have an existing timber door which has a standard nightlatch and separate mortice lock but I want to improve security by fitting a mulitpoint lock instead of the existing ones. Any recommendations of what is a reasonable quality one, there seem to be so many out there and the price range is huge! Are the "non-branded" ones from the likes of ironmongery direct or locksonline any good or is it best to stick with "household" names like Yale or ERA? I often think you're paying for the name with some stuff!

Where do you want the "TV" door to be when it's in the open position and you're watching television? Do you want it to open and fold flat (or almost) against the other doors to the left on your sketch? I don't think a single door that size would be possible as it would require a very substantial support and hinge mechanism. You might not think it's that heavy but try lifting an 8x4 sheet of 18mm MDF! If it were me I would want the symmetry of having a row of identical sized doors, with 2 or more door fronts for the TV which open out and fold almost flat against the other cupboards.

You need to use a slip coupling. It's like a double ended socket but has no central stop so it can slide up and down the pipe.

When we were doing our kitchen spots I rigged up a temporary arrangement with a couple of spots fitted into an old length of laminate flooring and then fitted it in a couple of places on the ceiling until we were happy with the light and positions. It wasn't perfect as the spots were about 4" off the ceiling but it was well worth doing and it's much easier to fill in a few screw holes than a whole bunch of 70mm spotlight holes.