Rob99

@Hilldes you could use a large 110 block like this. The 300 pair kit is a good price as it includes the colour coded connection blocks, but you can make up any size you need in multiples of 50 pair. You can then mount them inside a plain plastic enclosure, similar to this type

I went the Ubiquiti route about 8 months ago replacing my mismatch of wifi routers and access points with a Dream Machine Pro and 2 Wifi 6 Lite AP's. Have to say, once set up and configured (several VLAN's etc) it's been faultless running 24/7 since install. What it has highlighted is how absolutely rubbish my Virgin modem box is with drop outs and slow speeds, even on a 350Mb connection. For the most part the reliability has at least reduced the previous constant whining from my kids about how bad the wifi is.

The cable rating should be marked on the reel. If not, I'd be concerned about authenticity. The cable itself should also have writing on it. Generally 0.5mm2 is 11A, 1.0mm2 is 17A and 1.5mm2 is 21A. Note these are max values and derating factors will need to be allowed for. As @Dan F has done, you need to consider what appliance it is you're powering at the end of the circuit.

Orbit ceased trading yesterday.............at this rate we'll all be back to the 90's with a choice of 5 or 6!!

Triple height are Wago 2002-3201 with 3 levels of connections. So, for example, if you use 5 terminal blocks in a group then you get 1 set of 5-core RGBW connections at each level. With double height terminals you can connect 2 RGBW for every 5 terminal blocks, or 3 RGBW if using triple height. Hope that makes sense ?

Yes, use double/triple deck terminal blocks. I use the Wago 2002 range which are the push in type (screw terminals are a pita) and are 5.2mm wide. You can mount the DIN rail to the back of the cabinet if you need to create more depth for the terminal blocks. You can get around 100 of the Wago terminal blocks on a single LXN DIN rail. Why 4-core? For RGBW you need 5 surely. Again, use the same double or triple height terminals, in blocks of 5 to connect all cores on a single level. For example you only need 10 triple height terminals to connect all 6 RGBW. Wow, thats a lot of cat6! Do you need all 224 cores to connect into your cabinet, or just some of them? I would terminate cat6 outside the cabinet on a patch panel or a 110 block and then only bring into the cabinet the cores you actually need.

Where I have RGBW dimmers in the cabinet I use fused terminal blocks - Wago 2002-1681

Ah that's interesting. Just checked my LXN4 and it has an earth busbar at the top. It's 3 years old so maybe they have slightly changed the design with fewer options on location now. I also have an LXN6-D which I'm building which seems to have tapped holes everywhere!! To be fair I've never yet built a panel which doesn't require some element of adaptation.

All FA cabinets have busbars for earth (and neutral), so that's where I terminate the CPC (earth) of the T&E. You may not see them in pictures as sometime they are fitted at the bottom but there are tapped holes for them to be fitted at the top too.

They're located on pins and not soldered to the pcb. You can slide them off fairly easily. I use mainly the 2002-2201 terminal blocks, stated as 2.5mm2. These are fine to use as even using 0.5mm2 stranded tri-rated cables fit very nicely in the terminal blocks when you use ferrules

The Wago 243 connectors are not designed for stranded cables and, in my experience, you can't fit a ferrule into them. The smallest ferrule for 0.5mm2 cable is too big. For Tree/Link/DI connections you only need to use cat6 twisted pair cabling (or equivalent)

These are Wago 243 connectors and you just twist and pull to remove the wires, although you need to be a bit careful as sometimes they can break and then you can't remove what's left easily. They are quite cheap to replace and I always have a stock of spares. See 1:16 of this Wago 243 video for wire removal instruction

Yes, that's my understanding

I ended up with a smart plug from local bytes which comes pre-flashed with Tasmota and controllable through Loxone virtual commands. Works fine for switching things on and off but haven't yet been able to get the power monitoring data into Loxone, although haven't really had much time to investigate. I also like the fact it has a button on the side to operate the relay manually which can be more convenient when I'm standing next to it than using the Loxone app.

I'm assuming this is all rated appropriately for what you intend to be powering. Although your control cabinet is effectively just a switch box, fixed mains wiriing coming to the cabinet or wiring out to various circuits must comply with BS7671 wiring regs, even if it's for 24v DC fittings.

Yes, you should use flexible tri-rated cables for the internal wiring in your cabinet for both 24v and 230v mains. I source mine from TLC (see link from @Dan F above). They are stranded cables and you should terminate them with bootlace ferrules of the correct size for each cable. For low current control cables (e.g. Tree etc) you can use any twisted pair and these will generally be solid core. I use Wago 2002 series terminal blocks and the Weidmuller 8 level marshalling blocks for cat6, control cables etc. Remember to keep 230v cable runs seperate from 24v/cat6 cabling where possible. General convention is to keep 230v cable runs to one side and 24v/cat6 to the other. Rob

If you've effectively gutted the existing house of services I wouldn't be at all surprised if the BCO deems it almost the same as a new build and insists on compliance with current regs.

The loop design is important and you shouldn’t leave it completely up to your builder/plumber. In my experience they will do a good job of calculating heat requirements, loop lengths etc but can easily overlook obvious things. We had our loop design done by Wunda and, although it was suitable at first glance, if we had followed it completely we’d have ended up with some horrendous cold spots. I adapted the loop design and added in a few bits and it all worked out fine. You only have one chance to get the UFH right. On kitchen islands, don’t heat underneath. Yes, you’ll get some heat transfer through the screed underneath but it will be minimal. Same for under other kitchen units, I wouldn’t run pipes behind the plinths as you’re just heating dead space (and whatever is in your cupboards!) nor any appliance spaces either. On the manifold question, for your layout one should be adequate. I would only think you might need two if you are likely to run them at different temperatures to suit the different floor finishes and honestly I can’t see why you’d want to do that with such an open layout.

I very much echo what a number of the others have said in that it's best to keep things simple. For my set up I have UFH downstairs and radiators upstairs. UFH has 8 zones. with 2 doubled up in larger rooms so 6 rooms/areas in total. My Loxone system controls the demand using the touch switch thermostats and then opens a zone valve for UFH or Rads as required using relays. The zone valves then trigger the boiler as would be the case in a normal heating set up. I essentially took the view that Loxone would replace the traditional time clock/programmer but with much greater control and configuration. I'm a Loxone partner so went with Loxone tree actuators on the manifold and AIR ones on the radiators as it made wiring simpler (ours was a refurb not a new build). @jack is right, there have been some issues with Loxone actuators failing with broken components internally. They have a 2 year warranty but it's a hassle to have to send them back for them to be assessed and then a replacement sent out. For clients now, I generally advise to go with a "standard" type heating set up and not use the Loxone actuators. It saves a huge amount of cost and, if you go with a heatmiser UFH control box (about £90 I think) then Loxone just has to trigger each zone demand and the heatmiser takes care of the valve opening and boiler firing. It means you can use readily available and cheaper 230V NC actuators. The advantage is that, apart form Loxone triggering the demand for heat, everything else is familiar to heating engineers/plumbers and electricians so simple to maintain in future. Hope that helps.

We almost went with Express a couple of years ago for our bifolds and windows. We liked their products and they seemed good as a company. At the time, although branded as an Express system, they were using a Smart Aluminium system (6000 I think) which is good quality stuff and I'd used quite a lot of in a past career. When we got our builder on board, his preferred local window supplier was a Smart Systems fabricator/installer so we went with them and saved ourselves a chunk of money (I guess someone has to pay for the fancy Express showrooms and marketing). The local supplier was very flexible with our schedule and the small changes needed during the project to suit the steel frame on our extension. My advice would be to decide what features are important on your windows/doors (e.g. slim sightlines etc) and then look around and visit some local window suppliers and ask for a quote. Also, ask your builder who his preferred supplier is too. Rob

Of course, being a Loxone partner I couldn't agree more..........?

I help self-builders and home owners, including a few off here, with equipment supply and DIY installations of Loxone. If properly planned and installed it's very much a fit and forget solution and doesn't require expensive engineer visits just to change your dining room lighting moods! If you want drop me a message if you have any queries.

+1 for Ubiquiti networking gear. I changed out my mix of wifi routers and AP's for Ubiquiti UDM Pro and Wifi6 AP's and in 4 months I've never had an issue and coverage and wifi speed is astonishing compared to what I was getting with my old stuff. As above, install Cat6 everywhere you think you may need to connect something up. Don't limit yourself to just main areas but include places like the loft too, especially as this is where you're likely to have your CCTV camera connections. On home automation, take a look at Loxone. As you're an electrician installing Loxone should be a doddle for you. As a Loxone partner I can source anything you need.

My mother has a standard boiler with HW cylinder so using both timer bits. With a combi the hot water is instantaneous (ish) and the boiler fires when there is flow through the hot water system when a tap is turned on so to use this timer you would just set the hot water to permanently on and let the boiler do it's thing. Maybe you don't even need to connect the HW part of the timer anyway if it's a combi.

So pleased to see the correct grammatical use of the plural of Forum..... ? I've used those timers before. Very easy to use, I fitted one for my 80yr old Mother.