torre

It's disappointing that circumstance meant not getting exactly what was planned but ask yourself - if conditions had led to building a couple of bricks wider, would you have offered them 8% more or just thought "it's only a few bricks"? It sounds like you agreed to the changes, I think you needed to re-negotiate and discuss the roof aesthetic at the time, not after the works were completed. I'd congratulate yourself on finding a company who've done good work, try to enjoy the results and not get hung up on trying to recoup what will be a very small sum at best for a lot of stress and effort

@saveasteading permitted development of commercial to residential

From your last picture it looks like this is a Post Office? Is there value in that as a commercial sale on its own, or splitting into a smaller shop plus single residence? Converting from a shop to residences should be permitted development so it may be worth getting prior approval as it gives certainty to potential buyers about one option at least, at little cost to you. I'd expect a local estate agent to have a good feel for whether there's more potential value in other options (single large residence, multiple flats) versus a straight split into two terraces. The only 'development' option I'd think about getting into would be doing the absolute minimum to split this back into two terraces, if valuations leave you confident this will be the best developed option, or at least looks like giving you some certainty of a reasonable return without much risk (and probably selling each as a 'fixer upper' rather than fixing roofs and floors etc)

I'd trim the ends of the block sides so you can sit then fully in the steel and then tie into the web. We fixed wall starter kits into our web (using self tapping screws) and then the ties just slot into that at each course. Hasn't your SE provided any detail for this?

It'd be good to mention build size, storeys, construction method for more context. Size doesn't get mentioned too much but it's hard to build small, cheaply per m2 - major costs (sewer, utilities) are the same regardless and you still have to fit out the same baseline number of the most expensive rooms (kitchen, bathroom). There's more wall, foundations, windows (£££) per m2 of floor too... Four wall lengths Six wall length - -- |1| |12| - -- Half as much extra wall Double the floor space ... build two storeys and it's less foundation, less roof per m2, build three storey even more so. For example, 10k for all services would be £25/m2 on a build Nod's size but £100/m2 on a small build a quarter of the size.

From the beams and piers it looks like someone's already had a go at opening up the layout, I think it would be a challenge to achieve the sort of layout you want, and as others said, you need to avoid an inner room - you could have a long corridor all the way to that bedroom but it's a huge waste of space. I'd try and work within the existing layout as much as you can - how about converting the kitchen area into a bedroom and relocating the kitchen along the fireplace wall or into the area you'd like to place a bedroom? It avoids a lot of structural costs and fire safety headaches as you'd connect to the existing protected corridor

So what's the state of play? Has planning permission actually been granted, including a condition requiring to sign a S106 agreement? Or just an indication from the council that they would grant permission subject to a S106 agreement? If it's the latter then you could push for the former - to my mind that's then 'full planning permission' as any permission is likely to have unmet conditions (and so some risk) at the point a lender makes their decision. Alternatively, could you ask the seller to enter into the agreement on some terms that protect them financially in the event you withdraw? The potential loss of that fee plus bond may be less than the cost of unsecured bridging finance until you have an interest in the land. Perhaps you already have some sort of agreement in place to cover the risk to yourself if they withdrew.

Try to give yourself a realistic feeling of what 2m headroom will feel like. You could get a double bed sheet or something larger like a tarpaulin and pin it off the top of a door stretched tightly to something similar height like other doors across the room. Or stand on your bed, but that may feel more spacious cos you'll tend to look down to space that won't be there. Only you can really weigh up if it's worth it. Things I'd consider are: 2m will be usable but may not feel comfortable; you could spend a lot for a conversion that doesn't scream 'luxury master suite' to future buyers How much first floor space will you lose? Do you need to make an existing room smaller to fit the stairs? Maybe a children's bedroom plus a study in the loft works better? Lowering the ceiling at least makes the job a bit less disruptive - the new one can go in before the old is ripped out It may well not add as much value as it'll cost, but if you're there a long time it's giving value every day Is raising the roof an option? Permitted development rights were extended to include this subject to some conditions

We're using the Fibolite 7n. When handling they're much more robust, feel more like a dense block than the thermalite 7, but still a decent weight and u value. Temporary timbers have held with frame fixers into the blocks very well.

A non material amendment to add solar is almost certain to pass. If you want to cost effectively improve your SAP take a look at Waste Water Heat Recovery (WWHR) . Pretty easy to install (on the shower waste pipe) and add without drastically changing other plans

It's intensifying the breach because you're greatly narrowing the field of view out of that window (be honest it's not the view you'd want yourself from either the window or their garden) I agree with @DevilDamo that doing this in two bites may be the likeliest avenue to get most of what you want. 3m PD first hand then applying separately for anything beyond, but you've got to be able to make that 3m extension work in it's own right in case you struggle to get permission later. Have you talked to this neighbour? Would they object to a larger homes compliant extension? Did they object to this one?

"Five bedrooms all ensuite" has a great marketing ring to it, but I'd prioritise whichever will work for you living there. Also I think most people buying a house that size would expect at least one to have a bath in it. Three bedrooms without any built in wardrobes doesn't sound so great though so I think you'd want to try and relocate those. If you don't like the external look, I wonder if you could fit a fake pane or similar in the middle and run the cill through

Residence 9 do a 44mm triple glazed in a deep frame and rate well for air permeability. They're expensive for uPVC though and if you want a custom colour even more so.

Clarify with your architect whether the sizes are also to meet percentage limits of glazing using simplified model, or whether it's only for guarding. If it's guarding when open then there are compliant guard bars that can be fitted in the reveal, or consider switching to dynamic modelling which may give you an alternative without some windows having to be fully open at night. MVHR doesn't help when using the simplified method for Part O but it will if you use dynamic modelling. Summer bypass mode is bringing cooler outside air in. (We squeaked through on simplified but were getting quotes heading up to around 1k for dynamic modelling on a small build)

Sorry you're having trouble. I'm very anti PIV in older houses. The idea is you're replacing the moist inside air with drier air from outside, but how is all that moisture supposed to get out? Sure some via trickle vents, but in an older draughty house a lot will be pushed out through the structure via lots of little gaps cracks and holes, so your pushing moisture into the fabric of the home. I much prefer dMEV - continuous extract ventilation. You're still replacing moist air with drier air, but now you are drawing all the moist air out through the extract ventilation, and the drier air in through those little gaps etc in the fabric of the home, so pulling moisture out of the home. These also have humidity sensors so they will automatically boost when you're creating more moisture through cooking, drying washing etc. Cheaper to install than the damp specialist's solutions too. Breathable plaster, paint, insulation, render are all important too and we've done that on a renovation too but it's expensive to take on, so I'd start with reasonably low cost options like dMEV and also turn the heating up a bit and see if things start to improve.

You've not mentioned why you're considering this route? I looked briefly at it as it seemed seductively easy to get a roof on but building in masonry, very tight tolerances so little adjustability and most importantly cost weighed against it (seemed a huge gap between the cost of the panels and a whole roof even supply only). I was surprised to learn it's still classed as a cold roof and so needs ventilation above meaning you need counter battens above for example so the build up isn't quite as thin as you'd think either.

Try units and appliances on only the window wall and the 1340 wall opposite so they're left and right as you walk in. Then maybe on the facing wall you can have something that folds out. Fridge, sink, WM on window wall. Cupboards either side of cooker on 1340 wall. All with cupboards above

(Unfortunately your pre-app advice has probably reduced the sale value somewhat) Seek permission for a solar farm maybe, including a couple of outbuildings?

If you don't want to play the long game you could put it on the market as possibly suitable for equestrian use etc and include an overage clause in any sale (be up front about that). You're likely to get at least some interest from self builders and local developers, who may be more willing to take a punt on an expensive push for planning than you are. If you sell, you save yourself the maintenance and realise some value now, with the possibility of a future windfall in future. Downside is losing control of what happens to this land you're next door to. Maybe it'll be left to go wild, maybe it's future development will spoil your enjoyment of your own home.

I see where you're coming from but the strips can't be even slightly wide or they'll compromise tightly fitting the PIR which is difficult enough anyway. Then if they're a bit narrow any gaps will mean they're not doing much. Thermally, 75mm between then 25mm insulated plasterboard over would better reduce bridging and also mitigate any gaps where you've not fitted the PIR tightly between studs. If you do go the strips route I see there's a Jackodur board that's rigid XPS without the tilable face (that you don't need)

Your neighbour's already given you a shopping list of changes the planners requested last time (to the original application) so they'll surely be raised by those same planners again (you might want to redact the neighbour's name here by the way). Definitely get your planning consultant or architect to attend as they're likely to be able to give much more policy driven 'clarification' as needed (read up on the protocol of site visits) Fortunately (for you and your future home) you're in an AONB, but unfortunately in planning terms there's more outstanding natural beauty without another house in it, unless of course it'll be your own! So you need to show how your design is exceptional (a very high bar) or do all you can to minimise harm. (You could for example suggest limited removal of permitted development rights to address concerns like building over the garage in future)

You've a challenge ahead building in this weather. As others have said make sure all fresh brickwork is well covered, you'll want to try and keep the cavity covered too so your insulation isn't drenched. We've used cheap tarpaulins for this and it's a battle keeping things in place with high winds. Also, make sure your bricks are covered on site so they're dryer when laid or that water is eventually going to push a lot of salts out of the bricks. I'm a bit sceptical of winter mix additive, be cautious of your builder pushing to work in too low temperatures. If local sites around you aren't laying, you probably shouldn't be either

Have you ruled out insulating below your existing timber floor? You'll be able to fit far more insulation. It sounds like you're already raising your existing floor level a fair bit with both ply and 10mm flooring and something in between, is that going to cause problems elsewhere? Including the 25mm insulation you linked would mean losing overall best part of 50mm headroom throughout, including all the doorways and make your bottom/top stair a tripping hazard due to uniform height. On a positive note those dense foam underlays like sonic gold are very stable and do a great job of deadening sound (have used under a floating floor before now)

Agree with fixing into the rafter tails, somewhere up by your scaffold board in second pic. Looks like you could use something like Brett Martin BR043Cl and screw into the end grain

@Russell griffiths I was literally typing cavity tray when I saw your reply. @BallyT you should be able to see weep holes all along the lead flashing over your upstand. Is your upstand insulated? Presumably you've some firrings to add a reasonable slope to this flat roof as well