torre

We did the same as @JohnMo 's option 1. All run in 15mm Hep2o so no joints at all from a manifold (with isolation) all the way to each room (so each room is easily isolated and can be worked on separately). There you can just tee off as needed or use a secondary manifold (with or without isolation) if that works better (Hep2o manifolds are just a block of tees at the end of the day). For some rooms we reduced down to 10mm for basins just to make the runs easier to work with.

We've previously installed a 2-panel bifold (Korniche) in preference to French doors because it allows you to park both doors on one side of an opening (say towards your boundary side) and make better use of your patio. Many French doors are installed such that you can't fold them back flush with the wall and having only one side of the patio blocked worked much better for us. If you do this though, you definitely need a separate 'traffic' door elsewhere as the 2-panel bifolds I've seen can't be opened and closed properly from both sides and would be annoying to use as your 'go out to the bins' door every day. In your case @Berkshire_selfbuid it looks like you have a side door from the utility for that sort of traffic so 2 panel bifolds could both open away from your sliders giving you a nice wide unobstructed patio (and symmetry)

We used Keim, which is similarly pricey but at least gives good coverage. We saved a bit by only using it on the external walls though.

What a horrible position to be in, unfortunately I doubt if your architect was your agent for the application you'd be able to argue the council hasn't notified you. I agree getting legal representation urgently is your best option here. Is there any chance in your rush to start you've ignored any pre-commencement conditions? Anything that would invalidate your commencement?

@Alan Ambrose that would be fair enough for the probably not VAT registered carpenter friend, but here it sounds like it's the builder and their PM (definitely VAT registered) issuing the 'informal receipts' and offering to 'save VAT'.

This isn't for your benefit, it's basically a sign none of that money on the informal receipt is going through the builders accounts. So the whole lot is cash that never goes through the builders books at all and he's avoiding tax and NI contributions on it while still reclaiming the VAT.

Always nice to get an update. Not a happy ending but certainly reinforces that you were right to walk away - well done for taking the difficult decision after thinking you'd found 'the one'

I think that 20% is more of a guide where velux are the only source of daylight. In your case, with other windows smaller roof lights should be absolutely fine, try to work out the overall window area as a percentage (as a point of reference building regs for a new build generally don't allow more than 25% window to floor area) You could probably save money embracing the wedge shape of your ensuite instead of so much studwork but that very much a personal design decision

We're at an early stage of sourcing similar. I was also going to mention Guttercrest. Alumasc Skyline look like a more 'off the shelf' option

The difference between a wood burner and bacon is that you can choose to eat a bacon sandwich and it only affects your own health whereas a wood burner pollutes the air for everyone. You can protect yourself from the dangers of bacon, but it needs action at a government level to protect us from pollution.

Try to feel reassured that this doesn't appear recent if doors etc are cut to the slope and may well not be getting worse. What sort of survey did you have? 25mm over 1m sounds like something anything more detailed than a valuation survey should have highlighted especially with visible signs like doors and mouldings cut to slope. Did the extension have building regs sign off?

Putting the extra board below is probably problematic in terms of heat distribution (in the future carpet scenario) though I agree it'd give the same support. Best would be clarify with the board manufacturer though it sounds like they've already said it's needed

I think building control will insist on the extra board over. It forms part of the structural floor - you might be okay with 12mm flooring over but the next occupant may replace that with just carpet, unwittingly making the floor unsafe

Perhaps focus on the smaller set of properties where the shell is already big enough then and it's mainly an internal remodel. Play to your strengths, where you can make savings and there are less unknowns like planning, groundworks. You can't out compete developers when it comes to material costs or hiring trades, but can compete on your labour as that's free, so try and max your contribution and minimise the unknowns (sorry this is much easier to say than do)

Maybe you could improve the flow from entrance to living space. It's the first impression for guests and how you'll use the space every day. Right now you come up the impressive outdoor steps, through a grand entrance way to... a lobby and a storage wall? Then turn 90 degrees and back 180 degrees up smaller stairs to the living space. Instead think about pulling the lobby and stairs forward a bit so the stairs can continue running forwards up to the living space, so you're greeted with a more open space and invited in. If you need a panic room, wouldn't you want direct access from the master suite on the right of your plans? I agree with others if you've 9 bedrooms you need more living areas - how far do you want to be from a coffee machine! Also that it's very (very) large - easiest way to cut costs and simplify construction would be to make it smaller, but bear in mind almost everyone (me included) will be giving their perspective from experience on much smaller builds. Good luck, I like the external design and how it fits the landscape.

I would avoid relying mostly on PIV in an old property and use MVHR or continuous DMEV instead. If there's a lot of moisture internally, PIV has to push that out somewhere, and that's likely to be into any gaps etc, where it may condense, potentially making any damp problem worse, whereas MVHR or continuous extract will help ensure more of the moist air is pulled out of the property.

Your first example looks like it's to protect anyone, esp children, coming from that path against running/riding straight into what is probably a road where the picture is taken from. I've plenty of sympathy for the issue of accessibility but please don't cut down something that's intended to prevent a serious accident.

I can't comment on the trap but you can get water leak detectors quite cheaply that will alarm and/or notify you via an app. It's something we're considering where we have a bowl sink without an overflow(!)

I'd quote an hourly rate (so from your figures ~125/h) as that's more likely to be how any legal adviser for the other side structures their charging and so more relatable (also probably lower than their own charges, so 'reasonable' looking). It's also probably reflective of how you put the time in. If I was on the other side I might try and argue you down on the basis you're charging a consultant's rate, but a consultant would have done it in half the time, because they would already be familiar with details you spent time researching, but I think your starting point is a reasonable one.

The pull down shutter unit cuts off the corner, makes it a bit unusable (hence the vases in the render maybe). Perhaps if needed put it in the right corner instead? I've found with hindsight that side opening wall unit doors tend to get in the way when open, if have more lift up does next time. Bit of a mix of sizes on that wall. Island hob works well for us, very sociable. Really like the waterfall island.

I'd think about both protecting your site, and protecting the public from the dangers on your site. Sites are exciting places to play, but dangerous. Signs won't keep children out, you need a secure fence for safety.

Best idea is to get a couple more quotes. On the positive side, it's broken down clearly, but looks on the high side to me. Couple of examples - when we had electrics done recently, our electrician would've got that done in a day (two max). Boarding and plastering say 3 - 5 days. Not huge material costs to those either.

Ours was an outside wall so I agree quite significant loss, but we accepted it in the bigger picture of much improved insulation of the other 90% or more of the perimeter and slab. For us, the trade off of extra cost and effort of disrupting existing stairs wasn't worth it. Whether you're living in the property at the time will be another factor.

When we did this, to keep the stairs as is we excavated to the edges and then added an insulated upstand to minimise cold bridging to the rest of the floor. Below our stairs is only cupboard space, if we ever clear it out we'll probably add a layer of rigid insulation and a false floor

Sounds like the surveyor could have explained why much better but I think they're right - Velfac windows are fitted with a shadow gap (10-15mm) and the whole visible frame hinges open. See here The gap is needed to give clearance for the frame to hinge within the opening, so nothing can be installed in front of the frame or they won't be able to open! So, the slips will need to be in place first (and will slightly reduce your openings). A cut edge is a good idea to ensure a consistent gap