Pete
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Posts
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Everything posted by Pete
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I am confused as @Dreadnaught was wanting to use the same set up as @TerryE and @Nickfromwales advised not bothering with the willis heater and wait for the new Sunamp so I am assuming this will do some form of heating?
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Great piece of kit, I have the slightly smaller version.
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Wish I still had mine!!
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Treat it carefully its a thing of beauty!
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Got any pics as I used to have that system and I did buy the CD later on. Still got the record deck somewhere. Happy memories recording tape to tape
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Any sofa supplier recommendation?
Pete replied to TerryE's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
looks like you may have already purchased Terry but there is a place in Accrington that sells Natuzzi http://www.furnimax.co.uk/.They buy in volume and have really low overheads and will be on our shopping list when we get to buying furniture!! -
What Nick said. You can get quite close with the scaler and finish with the planer,depends on how much you need to remove and over what area you need to cover.
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I have used a surface scaler in the past from HSS and that will take your floor down. Use in conjunction with extraction unit and will keep the dust down, £164.00 + vat per day. Took me best part of 4 hours to grade 4 sq m from 8mm to nothing.
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We used Buildakit, company based in Nelson, Lancashire.
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Yes me and my son. Pretty straight forward really,you just do not want any wind when getting the panels up!
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i sent you PM Russ
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Yes that is the concealed gutter. We are using the coloured matched gutter and fascia on the roof terrace and garage.
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Yes it is a metal roof, Tata steel but purchased through Catnic.
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Roof nearly finished but just thought I would send some pictures of roof as quite a few people have messaged me about using this product.
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Its called multi rend carrier board
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Devices dropping out of WiFi
Pete replied to ToughButterCup's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Thanks Ian, my wifi playing up now. Must be a local (ish) thing! -
I have used moisture resistant render board with a dpc behind on a wooden batten and I do not need to mastic the joints. My boards can be left for at least 12 months according to the makers spec so check with the render people before you go ahead. If exposed for any length of time they need brushing down and left to completely dry out before rendering.
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Due to the nature of our build which involves a 500mm cantilever I cannot get access from below as I would have to go outside the thermal envelope of the building as well as the airtightness layer. I cannot take the cables right round the room due to floor to ceiling windows so instead of an easy cable run it involves a lot more drilling it would seem.
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Quick question on cable safe zones. I realise that the cable must be in a safe zone 150mm or buried at least 50mm from the surface. I have a service void in my frame which has created a 40mm space at the bottom of the wall which when plasterboarded will be 55mm (ish) so would it be acceptable to run my cables in this area which would be behind the skirting board or do I need to run the cables as you would expect in line with the sockets? The service void is filled with 40mm rockwool so it would save me drilling all the studs and making a gap for the cables. This will only happen on an exterior wall of the timber frame. TIA
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I think it is best laid on a solid surface as our floor make up was block/beam with insulation and then a chipboard floor floating but glued edges and in certain light you could make out the ripple effect over the entire floor.
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I would agree with all of the above but avoid slightly intoxicated ladies in stiletto shoes putting all their weight through the heel as it left small indents that we had to look at for years.
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We had Karndean fitted in our last house and we loved it, only problem we had with it over the 10 years was the uv light through the french doors severely bleached the colour in that area and it was really noticeable. The product was the warm oak wood effect tile.
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The Tata steel one is a square profile that we are using via Catnic
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We had to put in soakaways, all 4 of them. Our B insp suggested using the concrete rings (for ease of maintenance) designed just for this purpose but we opted for the plastic crates as we have minimum trees nearby and a standing seam roof so not alot to create a noticeable build up of sediment. We had to dig down quite a way to create a minimal fall and get at least 5 metres from the house and still have the outlet pipe near the top of the crates so you may find you will get through the clay layer. It was not part of our planning condition.
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Our Bc would not accept a RWH instead of soakaways or other means of getting rid of the surface water
