Pete

My knees have only just recovered from setting levels on my concrete floor ready for the SLC. Like some have said you need to buy the right tools to aid ones old age (me included). I am looking at a trolley for mixing/pouring self leveling and tile adhesive and possibly an upright spreader so I am stood up doing a lot of the jobs instead of kneeling. WE have to look after ourselves Ian.

When I laid the wet UFH pipes in our concrete slab I put a loop in both bathrooms. Now I am hoping to put an electric mat under the tiles above the wet pipe system unless the collective say otherwise. Like some I am hoping to have a subtle background heat (electric)from the bathrooms to heat the house before we go full wet pipe but not sure if this is ok above the wet pipe system. TIA

Been quite a bit if talk about thermostats and temp just recently and got me thinking what do people have their house temp set at? I used to do some work for a lady that had her house set at 27c and I used to perspire profusely. A young couple rent a house of us and they have it set at 25c. We have our house set at 19c and will prob be happy with 20/21 when we move into our new house.

I cannot see why you would do it this way. When you mark the wall plate for the spacing you would trust your pencil line (measure twice an all) so why not just attach the hangers and this will make your life a lot easier Ian. Just be in time for the Patten arms opening if you get a move on!

Don't make it to comfy she will want to stop!!

I have purchased the Ultra compound and in its directions for use it says if the floor has been power floated which mine has it says it must be scrabbled/roughen up to ensure full adhesion of leveling compound to original floor. Have you used Ultra on a power floated floor @Nickfromwalesas you say just to prime it? TIA

?

Thanks that is what I was after. One more question, a lot of sites say you must roughen up the surface before laying primer/compound which would be a very large job. The floor is a 12 month old slab which is very clean, slightly dusty which I will hoover. When I have done this before I have just laid it on the existing concrete after SBR and never had a problem but for some reason cos it is my house I am dithering, nervousness or old age I think!!

I suppose that is why I think do the leveling and then sprinkle in my 6mm limestone pipe bedding. I may to to do it in two pours in some areas so may use the aggregate on the lower level and just use the compound on it's own on the top. What did you think about the primer as I have been given conflicting advice. Some say PVA, others SBR of which I have some left over from another job and some get the specialist stuff, Mapei, which is a lot more money but needs to be done right. Also, whether to let it dry before pouring the compound or leave it till it is tacky and then pour. I am thinking of using the Ultra compound that you use so any info is gratefully received. Thank you

Great news and it is good to hear you are really pleased with your trades people. Very interesting to read as well.

Just got some general questions about SLC and how to make my life easier. How runny/flowable (technical terms) is the Ultra two ( @Nickfromwales ) part self leveling when mixed with the Latex? With having to bring the floor up 10mm over quite an area I was going to bulk it up with 6mm limestone pipe bedding and wondered how easy it will be to spread this? I know the best way would be to mix the aggregate prior to laying but the easier way is to sprinkle it in afterwards especially if it 10mm deep (ish).What about priming the floor beforehand as the place I am getting the compound from do not go into detail and some sites say let the primer dry before laying the compound and others say put compound down when primer is tacky. TIA

South Lakes planning. Ref sl/2014/0060

Jeremy I am so disappointed you have not got it on a spreadsheet somewhere!!. Thanks for the response

What manifolds did you use Jeremy?

He means he has removed the flexi pipe feeding the manifold, not removed the plastic pipes.

Who are you using for the air test and roughly what are the costs pls?

I am sure I replied in your Accoya cladding post, Trespa Pura.

You could have had this for a tenner

What he said, as that is exactly what we did!

?

Google Trespa Pura. It is a man made product which does not need any treatment except a wash down now and then. We do not like it when the wood silver's as we think it would spoil the look of the house. 25sq m cost about £3000 and I fitted it myself.

Front door down this side where the wood is at the moment. There will be a small section of wood cladding to go between the two windows and the rest is limestone. There are 3 small windows past the front door underneath the plastic sheet. I thought my temp back door looked smart Mrs @Onoff

Trespa

That is the back door, a £10 ebay buy. Pirnar front and back door going in in New year. It will be 1 metre wide when I dismantle the opening. Thank you for your kind words.

We have used Trespa wood panels