Pete

I bought a 32mm atplas meter box so it really should be 32mm all the way. UU want an email to query with the connection company so will see what happens.

I was away when we had our water connected up in the main road. I had requested and paid for a 32mm supply as we are about 80 metres from the main supply. I have now received photos of the actual connection and it shows the end of my 32mm pipe going into a reducer, a short length (100mm) of 25mm pipe and then the coupling into the main. My question is this normal as I expected it to be 32mm all the way to the main? I cannot see it making to much difference but just thought I would ask?

No, £6.60 for 25, cheap as chips mate. Are your windows pre glazed or not? I had a bit of both so the windows that were not pre glazed you can fix through the frames and not bother with this these straps. I only put them on the sides. I had some really large windows so to ensure they did not bow I put some angle brackets on the inside at the bottom to keep the window securely fixed.

Got mine from SBS Cumbria, Unit 5 Parkside business Park. LA97EN. 25 cost £6.60 incl vat

Building this way removes all the problems with the VAT claim, what type of screw to use(Ian), what make of power tool. Whether Passive, decrement delay is sorted (I think Jeremy?)and I would not have to use Internorm windows!!

Bought three pairs of glasses from Aldi the other week for just such occasions. (You clumsy oaf)

As @Hobbinihoand @ProDave mention the stairs have to pass BR. This is a picture of the staircase we are going to build for our house, the first thing our B/I said was that the gap is to big between the treads so you will have to do something to overcome this. BUT the thickness of the glass in the drawings is 12mm toughened and the staircase manufacturer said he would not be happy with that thickness and wants to use either 15/19mm toughened or at least 13.5mm laminated but my B/I was happy with 12mm. You win some you loose some. This staircase was built down South but seems to have been past by B Control there!!

As @Russell griffiths says you can get shadow gap trims which is what I am using. The way I am suggesting is the same as using a door but a using a 4 x 2 frame instead. I will glue the the 12mm MDF in place and use a filler if necessary, once it has had a few coats of Zinseer it will be ok.

MDF is used all the time for skirting and door cases.

Sounds like it. Only problem is I do not have the doors yet so will make a frame as a substitute door

I am making my own door casings out of MR MDF as I cannot source my frames due to different widths. SO I am going to use 18mm for the frame with a 12mm plant on to form rebate. I am having shadow gaps around the door casings so no architrave. Has anybody made themselves a jig as I have 15 door casings to put in? I an thinking something along the lines of a 4 x 2 rectangular frame made to smallest door measurement and properly square. I can attach my door casing to the outside (screwed through the rectangular frame into the MDF)and then place in the opening and pack accordingly. If I drill some elongated holes in the 4 x 2 frame where I would fix the casing I can then fix the casing permanently, remove the screws I attached the casing to the rectangular frame and Bob's ur titfer. Has anybody done this as it must be quicker than doing each casing the traditional way? TIA

I'm using it now @Onoff

We used a Brinno camera and had a lot of footage of the garages being built and the timber frame going up and one day my wife was doing some work transferring files and she lost everything through no fault of her own. We have since found out it was something to do with Windows on the computer and to this day have never retrieved the footage even though we have had quite a few geeks try to recover it for us. The reason for this post is to always back up when you have transferred your info onto the computer!

Mine just created a vacuum as they said it was quicker and get a reading sooner. It also told them if the test was going to be a good result by doing the vacuum first. I suppose they may have done a pressure test if my result was poor but I got 0.56 with a big air leak around my unfinished windows so need to do further testing.

I am trying a flea type of insurance so will be just covered for fire, lightning and earthquake. Thanks. I had already read this but found it of no use as the quotes are ridiculous and wondered if anybody else had done something different..

The house insurance is due for re-newel and the quotes are quite steep. The house is structurally complete, wind and watertight, 50% plasterboarded and just needs bathrooms and kitchen fitted and it will be finished. The reasons the quotes are high it seems is because I am not using contracts people to do the work and using their liability insurance. What have people done in these circumstances? The company I used last year no longer deals with this type of insurance and some of the quotes are ridiculous. I have used Quoterack this morning to see what they come back with and tried Adrian Flux yesterday and their quote was silly money when all of the structural work has been completed. TIA

I used stainless steel screws to fix my battens and render boards. I did not pre-drill the render boards, just screwed them in place to the manufacturers fitting requirements regarding spacing and pattern layout

Our timber frame manufacturer did something similar for our build but it was not as good as we expected.

Don't you mean slowly @nick?

We used 16mm stainless bar through the grip, cut them 300mm long and attached it to the mesh with wire, just belt and braces I suppose.

Pity you live along way from me as I used the same system and I have a spare piece of the edge section left over. If you are attaching the GRP angle to the mesh in the floor slab then I cannot see a massive problem, just a lower level of thermal thickness imho

Had a central vacuum in the last house but we will not be having one in the new house. Although they have improved the hose storage capabilities the damage it used to cause dragging it around corners and doorways is not worth imho. As @PeterStarcksaid technology has moved on and we will be buying a Dyson at some point.

Yes but would the work have been done to the same standard that you did? At the moment most people I have to get in to do work has left me feeling like I wish I had done it myself.

I have done the same @ProDave