MikeSharp01

Yup, that is correct. Cheaper than shoplifting, quiet as a mouse farting in a church on a Sunday during mass, and solid as a rock. But how do you automate their controls - cannot find any manuals or datasheets and the specifications were all written in 2017 and you cannot be telling me that the world of ASHPs has not moved on a long way or that the 2017 design was 10 years ahead of the pack.

Actually - belay that a little birdie tells me he was lurking on the side last Monday - clearly we must be doing alright otherwise he would have been on to put us straight wouldn't he.

Speaking of @Nickfromwales looks like he has not been on here since July - must be having a good long holiday somewhere let's hope.

Why? I looked at Panasonic and the information on their R32 5kW monoblock was limited or very old - I could find nothing on how to get access to the controller although it talks about a cloud option I don't want that - local RS485 would suit me much better and the sound levels seemed a bit high.

That sounds like a very small modulation range - whats the model, you obviously thought it would do down to around 50%, I guess it would cycle less if it could get down to 3.1kW but maybe there are other trade offs when modulating down that far at such low temperatures & small deltas although I cannot think what they might be.

What is it rated at, ie what does 5.2kW represent as a percentage of max output.

We recently paid £250 for our air test in Kent, - got 0.2 on The Passive house scale and 0.3 on the Building regs scale.

Ah yes that explains a lot - it seems that you were, before you lost it, using a drill for driving screws.

Thanks. Good plan - I will get some when the balancing starts.

With us there is no room for them before the distribution plenums so they will need to go on the other side between the titon and the outside air but I do have room inside the DIY plenums for some foam etc. Not sure what the effect of having the attenuator on the external connections is though.

We are just about to put the MVHR unit in and hook it up to all the ductwork and the outside world. We have a Titon HRV4.25 Q Plus B2 (with the aura controller) and I am not sure what attenuation strategy I should use. I have read loads of stuff on here and elsewhere and also spoke to the technical team at Titon (can't praise them (him) enough) and he suggested using two of their 1m semi flexible attenuators although I know some on here advise against these devices. I had intended to put the attenuation into the distribution boxes, so after the unit in supply and before it on extract, which I will custom make, based on ideas shown elsewhere here, to fit the space and allow maintenance but his suggestion - which will be the other side of the unit on the connections to the outside, has some advantages eg getting fitted in the space /lined up. I do want to to be as quiet as I can get away with. Any thoughts.

We still have our problem in that I cannot actually do a DIY job for the difference I would need to pay a over the grant amount 4K ish based on all the quotrs we have had. I am now looking at the Umbrella schemes to see if I can use that route. It is an official MCS thing but finding a partner local enough to do their bit is proving 'interesting'.

The coffee machine!

Thanks all - I will get back to it at the weekend, draining it down and fitting a new 3 way valve as the current one seems to be letting by, which may explain where the flow is going when it should be going to the furthest rads, the TRV is the right way round its not stuck as I can push it down no problem so it must be an imbalance - has been working fine up until now - still best get it sorted before the winter comes.

At the bottom - they are tall wall rads 1.8m high.

Just doing a check through our heating system at millstone manor, ready for winter, and have come across an odd problem. We have a radiator where the feed pipe is getting hot, there is no bypass pipe, but the radiator is not. I have had the rad off, checked it is not blocked and both valves are open, same problem. Feels like an air lock but the radiator bleeds fine. Any thoughts?

Not sure where they get, probably missed something I have, the SCOP of 1.75 in HW mode from even the highest temperature output in the heatpump specification is 3.47 @ 55 Deg C after which it drops to 0 which implies it won't go there!

No piling, just three cores to check the state of the clay below the slab. We scraped off the surface buried the soil pipes, put in the peripheral drain and then back filled with type 1 - rolling and levelling in layers, then covered in pea shingle before putting down the insulation modules, put in the dpm, made and installed the reinforcing , attached the UFH, poured the concrete.

Passive slabs are more expensive than strip foundations but your soil conditions are the same as ours, although we have no large trees close, so no reason not to. You need to get a proper structural design based around a few cores taken by a soil mechanic as we did. The rest was just hard work - but worth it.

But the PHPP has a cooling via MVHR option that cannot be done feasibly with direct electric - unless you can afford a big enough thermoelectric cooling plant, so ASHP will be a good option for that.

Then it should be OK but check the technical guff on the unit to ensure it can deliver under your circumstances - I dimly recall you need to have a given output temperature for the unit to get the tick in the box and that's a variable.

We have thought about this one a lot - as we approach more advanced years, not so much for the ovens but for the fridge, we have no high units, other than one place in a wall for the ovens - maybe you could do that, in the kitchen only the utility. We have looked at the under counter pull out fridges - EG the Liebherr UIKO1560 which should make access easier and then have a fridge freezer in the utility room for deeper stock! PS - BUT before you take aboard your sons advice ask yourself how often they took aboard any of yours.

Sounds like a plan the PHPP software will tell you if it's a goer!

The heat load is based on the worst day of the average year not the worst monthly average. So bunging the average in won't get you the passive house outcome - you need the worst day, the maximum energy needed to maintain the temperature difference. See here: https://passipedia.org/basics/the_passive_house_-_definition

1 mile is beyond range of 5G mm wave, very high speed, which has a max of 600m range, low band 5G would get there but is much slower maxing out at 50Mbs top end of 4G is in theory better but your speed will be all about how busy the cell is.