MikeSharp01

That's is an awful lot of pressure. 1.5psi = 6000 Pa = 120 x the passive house test pressure = massive load on a door (3000lb @ 72inch x 33inch x 1.5lb)

Because you have to fill all the voids. If you have flat timber frames it is easy but then you have massive cold bridges on the outside. We have I joists so the void is odd shaped - don't know what you are considering. Filling cavities is easy, just drop the batts in as you go.

The fitting won't be easy, we had it as an option but chose the blown cellulose in the end. Although there are some places we used it because the space was too small for blowing.

I think there are quite a few in that range. Mineral wool: 0.030–0.040 W/m²K Expanded polystyrene: 0.030–0.038 W/m²K Extruded polystyrene: 0.028–0.038 W/m²K Polyisocyanurate (PIR) and polyurethane (PUR) foam: 0.022–0.028 W/m²K Cellulose fiber: 0.04–0.05 W/m²K

We just used it where we needed the load bearing capacity, everywhere else we used PU or EPS100 if we could not get the right PU section. Cutting compacfoam is hard. They say you cannot cut it with a circular saw - I say you can't! I did find my hot wire did it on full power going slowley.

We used a structural polystyrene from Green Building Store. Compacfoam

we got luck there - no trees anywhere near us!

I did a training course 2 days at BRE was good and more interesting to watch the teams from the developers getting to grips with it. That was back 2018. It is time heavy to use but as I have built I have been keeping it up to date and initial work is showing that it broadly alines with the facts even though we have, so far, not put any heat in it.

Doesn't everybody in Kent! Welcome to the Forum from another Kentish Man / Man of Kent.

I have hit a snag with our G99 application - they (UKPN) want a description of the G100 export limitation scheme employed - I read the briefing document on the Energy Networks Association but it looks long winded to provide a report. Did you just refer them to the Inverter certification and or draw them a schematic showing the energy meter linked to the inverter or was it more complex than that?

I think I get that Induction hobs are not pure resistive loads like the old hobs were and they are earth leaky so is a B curve 40A AFDD+RCBO (30mA) going to be OK for a 7.5kW induction hob or is another curve more appropriate and once I decide on that what brand should I choose - I am looking at WYLEX (Which I think is Siemens) but there are many others I could choose in the WYLEX segment if you get my drift.

Hi - and welcome to THE forum for people like us.

Thanks for this - I found this link before talking to them - it has good links but most are out of date. The manual gives the read register values but none of the control register values - other than warning you that the Modbus can alter settings the touch screen controller cannot alter so take care. It does seem a shame that no info is presented but I will keep on at it and report back anything I find. Perhaps @JohnMo is right just set it up and forget it but I did want to have a little more control.

Our Titon HRV4 MVHR is waiting to be installed and I thought I would get on with sorting out the Modbus connection I think it has built in. I contacted Titon and they say they won't support the Modbus for private sales - it is for companies. I have all the technical knowhow I just need the register / bit wise designations - which I can probably reverse engineer by experiment but its high risk so I have been looking for details. There seems to be some info out there but nothing really answering my questions, anybody done it / know someone who has?

We have effectively gone this way although the switches are all wired in the standard 1mm flat cable so they could be wired normaly if the central system fails they can be wired, with a single bridge connection (actually done as din rail switch blade terminals - https://www.kempstoncontrols.co.uk/011598600/Entrelec/sku/436) direct. At the outset the ground floor has central control and all the first floor lighting is traditionally wired back in the lighting panel so I can extend the control system to them if I ever want to.

Yes this is down to direct electric heating it's the dumbest thing ever isn't it.

No it is £7.5k for self builds as well I have several quotes from MCS installers showing this for ours just need to choose one and press on.

Yes you are provided you are funding the build privately. It is not open to commercial operations. We have discussed this here a few times - the problem is getting a reasonable price out of those installers who can draw down the grant.

Thanks for this will drop by them on Monday and have a chat.

All we really need is data if we have enough of it we can classify / regress everything, all the factors. No-one in no heat gain from people, cooker not on - same, somebody home tweaking up the stat not comfortable - who home we know the individual comfortable levels. It's all about the unreasonable effectiveness of Data with enough of it very good models are easy even with simple technologies.

Quite the journey you are on there, great to get an update. What's the fun of air tighting an old build like. Our new build is very good, house went up 1 degree as I worked in it today but here, in millstone Manor, it went down 4 degrees while I was out - so I need to get it more air tight. Done some windows and door resealing need to start on the upper works now! Its brick built 50mm cavity with insulation in places. Any tips?

Sounds like you got a bad one there. There must be some RIBA code that protects clients from tin eared architects. Ours was great listened to everything while sticking to their concept yet making changed to suit us and the planners pre planning advice. Worked out well and we are happy with the work they did. We didn't use them to manage the project but not because we thought they couldn't because we wanted to do it ourselves.

It should cost nothing, just a try on - here is process we used. Ask to have the meter removed as you no longer want to pay the standing charge, wait 6 months and you will get a letter asking when the meter is being replaced, you say it isn't they write back and say in that case we will need to cut the supply off at the road - no charge.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cqjrpv218r0o

You won't find a supplier prepared to take the risk on you! You need to derisk it yourself by paying by credit card in 30K lumps - take care there are dragons here. Or go to your local betting shop and see if you can get cover that way. We used Norrsken and they worked out just fine. Carefully doing the measuring processing the order sorting install, doing it well and fixing the one problem we had, a seal getting caught up, diligently.